Tamiya Durga DB01 EP Buggy (A cheaper 501X?)

[dimblum]

Originally Posted by aittam

Hello again.

I've been playing around with the timing settings of the Mamba 5700 motor, trying to figure out how to reduce the temperature.

Yesterday night (10pm, 27°C):
- with 15pinion and 91spur gear (FDR 12,44), timing set to Lowest(0):
after 10minutes of racing the motor was 75°C and the esc 57°C;
after 20minutes of racing the motor was 91°C and the esc 64°C.

Now I'm stuck. I don't know what else to do.
Any idea?

I've found another post of guy having the same overheating problem, he contacted Castle Creations support and they replied that the Mamba motors can stand up to 250F/300F. Could it be possible?

Thanks.
Mattia.

I think Castle Creations is crazy if they say that their motors can withstand 250F/300F.. That is way to hot!! 75 more degrees and your polycarbonate body would start to melt..

Novak motors hit their breaking point before 200F, and they are built like a tank..

[dimblum]

Originally Posted by mog ruith

does the 511x front wing that is mounted on the front shock tower
fits a durga?

Sure does.. The instructions included with the 511 wing cover mounting to a DB-01 chassis

[TRF_AK]

Thought some of you guys might be interested in this article posted on Tamiyausa.com regarding the DB-01: http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/fe...article-id=414

[built2scale]

Nice find on the article, thanks.

[suparajicon]

Does anyone knows if this car can be updated with better turnbuckles,balls and ball ends? I,m afraid the kit ones bend easier. Any adviced?

[bender]

Originally Posted by suparajicon

Does anyone knows if this car can be updated with better turnbuckles,balls and ball ends? I,m afraid the kit ones bend easier. Any adviced?

I've had no trouble with the kit turnbuckles, but I suppose you could alway replace them with Lunsford items.

As for the ball ends and ball studs, I have replaced the ball studs with Kyosho items (from the RB5). The kit ball ends fit the Kyosho studs much better (no slop) and don't pop off either

[Spoolio]

I replaced my turnbuckles with some TRF ones but only for the bling factor, had no trouble at all with the kit ones (in fact I've reused them on my vintage RC10). Also using RB5 studs and ballcups as the Tamiya ballcups are indeed a tad on the soft side.

[Spihc]

Anyone ever tried soft case lipos in the DB01? It seems enough protected to me...

[dr durga]

guys, i just wanted to know, are these absolute rubbish, or are they a lot better than the stock ones: http://www.etamiya.com/shop/tamiya-d...-90007635.html

[DCM]

I would save your pennies and buy a B4 pair... the GPM and 3Racing ones, are just pants!!

[Spoolio]

Originally Posted by dr durga

guys, i just wanted to know, are these absolute rubbish, or are they a lot better than the stock ones: http://www.etamiya.com/shop/tamiya-d...-90007635.html

While I know it's dangerous to judge a product solely on it's retail price I would suspect that these are probably more for bling and that they don't actually outperform the kit shocks.

[knighthawk]

in my mind you get what you pay for!

cheap and hard to find the spares for?

IMHO

[A.J. Gee]

54141-High Traction Lower Arm (Front)
54142-High Traction Lower Arm (Rear)
Does anyone have experience with these newer arms? I just picked up both sets as back up's and was wondering how they differ from the original stock arms. I'm hoping that they make the buggy sit lower, so that the CVD's go a bit further into the out drives considering Tamiya made a screw up with the compatibility between the TRF dampers and the length of the CVD's. Thing's aren't as bad as they were since transferring back to the stock (carbon reinforced towers) in place of the chincy 3 racing carbon fiber towers. Even with limiting the shock piston travel, I still get nervous that the CVD's are gonna pop out during a run. That would cause some good damage I would imagine. I like the looks of the atomic towers and have heard great things about them, I just can't muster the budget at the moment and in the past, LOL.

[dimblum]

Originally Posted by A.J. Gee

54141-High Traction Lower Arm (Front)
54142-High Traction Lower Arm (Rear)
Does anyone have experience with these newer arms? I just picked up both sets as back up's and was wondering how they differ from the original stock arms. I'm hoping that they make the buggy sit lower, so that the CVD's go a bit further into the out drives considering Tamiya made a screw up with the compatibility between the TRF dampers and the length of the CVD's. Thing's aren't as bad as they were since transferring back to the stock (carbon reinforced towers) in place of the chincy 3 racing carbon fiber towers. Even with limiting the shock piston travel, I still get nervous that the CVD's are gonna pop out during a run. That would cause some good damage I would imagine. I like the looks of the atomic towers and have heard great things about them, I just can't muster the budget at the moment and in the past, LOL.

I have been using the high traction arms for a while now.. I prefer them to the stock parts since they are a much lower profile (a little more clearance from the underside of the chassis - they make a lot less contact with the ground)..

Tamiya says they are slightly weaker than the stock arms, but I have not noticed any durability difference between the two.. I have only broken one, and that was due to a head on collision.

I do not believe that they will make much difference with the CVD's.. The Atomic Carbon towers are by far the best solution and almost a necessity when using the TRF dampers with the supplied shock rods.

The less expensive alternative to fix your shock/CVD problem is to add a couple limiters to your rear shocks. You will have a little less travel, but it will fix the concerns with the CVD's and the rear wheel uprights.

[A.J. Gee]

Originally Posted by dimblum

I have been using the high traction arms for a while now.. I prefer them to the stock parts since they are a much lower profile (a little more clearance from the underside of the chassis - they make a lot less contact with the ground)..

Tamiya says they are slightly weaker than the stock arms, but I have not noticed any durability difference between the two.. I have only broken one, and that was due to a head on collision.

I do not believe that they will make much difference with the CVD's.. The Atomic Carbon towers are by far the best solution and almost a necessity when using the TRF dampers with the supplied shock rods.

The less expensive alternative to fix your shock/CVD problem is to add a couple limiters to your rear shocks. You will have a little less travel, but it will fix the concerns with the CVD's and the rear wheel uprights.

Thanks for the reply Dinblum. Glad to hear that the arms give the chassis a little more clearance, which will come in handy for any large jumps I decide to launch from,lol. Also glad to hear that the arms won't touch down as much as the original stock arms, which in my opinion work quite well anyways, but less scrapes is always a good thing. Hopefully they give some more ground hugging performance as Tamiya claims.

I guess the situation with the CVD's isn't so bad after all, since having a run with it today after receiving my new Zippy Flightmax 4000Mah 30C Lipo. I'll tell you what, that is a damn good battery for sure. The performance is none less superior to the brands that most of us hear of in the RC business. I have the SMC lightning which has the same specs besides being a 28C, but i don't think that makes much of a difference anyways. I paid $34.00 for the pack and would recommend them to anyone, whether they are on a budget or not. My other Lipo pack is an Orion 3600 25C and again the Flightmax is none less superior. The only thing less superior is the price of the bigger names. I'm pretty sure the SMC that I have is a rebadged version of the Zippy, I kid you not. I use to laugh at people buying Zippy brand, but not anymore. I also bought the Turnigy/Hobbywing/SpeedPassion Exige/Yeah Racing 60A Speedo and I'll tell you what, the thing is absolutely great. It has a fan as well and for $56.00 it can't be beat. Well anyways, sorry for the rant but thanks for your response. Oh and one last thing, I actually did put limiters in the TRF Dampers a lil' while back and I'm running them with the carbon plastic towers which are strong as hell. Maybe the CVD's won't pop out after all, but looking at the distance that they protrude from the out drives makes me nervous. LOL Peace Out.

[fastinfastout]

I can only find baldre bodies.....which I detest.

Where are people getting their durga bodies from?

Also, does the 501x body fit?

[tommy]

Originally Posted by fastinfastout

I can only find baldre bodies.....which I detest.

Where are people getting their durga bodies from?

Also, does the 501x body fit?

hi there try brock models

[crewie]

Kamtec

[fastinfastout]

Originally Posted by tommy

hi there try brock models

bit expensive

Originally Posted by crewie

Kamtec

they dont do them, as far as the search goes


does anyone know if the 501x body fits?

not buying a durga kit, just for the body

[crewie]

Kamtec do make them. I have one on mine.