Tamiya Durga DB01 EP Buggy (A cheaper 501X?)

[widnerkj]

Wow!!! That explains a whole lot. I took it out for a test with the 5700 in it, and I couldn't figure out why it seemed like if I grabbed the throttle for all it was worth, the rear would recieve no power. well time to tear it apart again

[DCM]

just make sure you keep the rear diff properly adjusted and lubed!

[dimblum]

Originally Posted by DaveG28

Anyone any advice for setting the mesh, it's tricky as the spur isn't held in place when you do it as the cover isn't on, does it hold true when you tighten the cover down?

What are the tell tale signs of the pinion mesh being too tight?

Run a strip of paper between the pinion and the spur when you mesh the gears - then bolt the motor in place (the spur should stay put - just make sure it is fully seated in it's slot). The paper will ensure that a tiny gap is left between the gears and result is an excellent mesh. Remove the paper once everything is tightened down..

A tiny gap needs to remain between the gears, otherwise the teeth on the spur gear will get chewed up by the pinion. with a proper mesh, the spur gear will always remain in mint condition.

[sim]

I usually find that the spur is slightly out-of-round or off-centre, so I rotate the spur until I find the spot that is tightest against the pinion and use that as the point to set the mesh. The pinion and spur should be very close together at this point but still have the teeniest bit of play between them (or use the paper method at this point).

[B44&501xRacerEX]

Originally Posted by dimblum

Oh no! The Tamiya Ceramic grease will ruin your diff once the car is run.
You need to use the diff grease only for the diff assembly.. Diff grease thickens as it moves to slow down the travel of the diff for limited slip reaction (this also helps maintain traction).. The balls are not meant to slip against the plates - only roll along them..

Ceramic grease will encourage the balls to slip against the plates, even if the diff is well tightened. It will spin unnecessarily increasing the heat (more chance of a melted pulley), and it will also counteract the function of your differential.

Ouchies...now we pin pointed his problem. Ceramic grease is a big no, no...lol Tamiya makes a big tube of Diff Lube, I bought some recently, that is the stuff he needs. This stuff is nice because it has an applicator tip for easy install. You get a small tube with the kit, and it's just enough for 1 use.

[SimonBes]

For this motor: http://www.teamnovak.com/products/br...8.5/index.html
Which of the supplied pinion gears should I use?
Also, can you just use the velcro to attach the body, or must you use the snap-pins too?!
Thanks!

[A.J. Gee]

Could anyone kindly let me know if the Associated (B44) front hex wheel adapters work on the DB01 as well as the rear axle blue spacer? I assume the rear body wing from the B44 works for the DB01, but if anyone knows first hand i would greatly appreciate it. I will provide the links for the parts that I'm referring to.... Thanks Guys.

Front hex adapters-http://67.199.85.166/main/productdetails.php?text=9750&category=3010.b44xx

Rear axle spacers-http://67.199.85.166/main/productdetails.php?text=9608&category=3010.b44xx

Rear wing/spoiler-http://67.199.85.166/main/productdetails.php?text=9772&category=3010.b44xx

[A.J. Gee]

One last question about parts fitment. I went ahead and ordered the TRF 501X Rear Hubs/uprights(part# 51274) since the place I was ordering from was out of the stock DB01 rear Hubs/uprights (Part#51310)
They look to be the same except for the material on the TRF version, which looks to be made out of the carbon reinforced plastic as opposed to the DB01's. Well I hope the answer to my question is 'YES' considering that the mounting holes on my hubs are stripped like a bitch. I will be utilizing some of my blue loctite for these new hubs that's for sure. Thanks for any input as usual

[Spoolio]

Originally Posted by SimonBes

For this motor: http://www.teamnovak.com/products/br...8.5/index.html
Which of the supplied pinion gears should I use?
Also, can you just use the velcro to attach the body, or must you use the snap-pins too?!
Thanks!

If you are running a Durga shell I've found that the gaps are just too large to use Velcro as the shell and chassis only touch at a few small points. If you use the supplied foam rubber blocks to bridge the gap and Velcro to that it gives a somewhat flexible fixing and mine always fell off so I've stuck to using the posts and some "big loop" pins off my M03 Mini to make it easier to get them on and off. I think it may be easier to Velcro a Baldre shell as it follows the chassis more closely but I've never actually tried that one yet.

[SimonBes]

I have the Baldre body, so will try without the posts (looks better!).
How about the pinion for that motor?
Thanks!

[A.J. Gee]

Originally Posted by A.J. Gee

Could anyone kindly let me know if the Associated (B44) front hex wheel adapters work on the DB01 as well as the rear axle blue spacer? I assume the rear body wing from the B44 works for the DB01, but if anyone knows first hand i would greatly appreciate it. I will provide the links for the parts that I'm referring to.... Thanks Guys.

Front hex adapters-http://67.199.85.166/main/productdetails.php?text=9750&category=3010.b44xx

Rear axle spacers-http://67.199.85.166/main/productdetails.php?text=9608&category=3010.b44xx

Rear wing/spoiler-http://67.199.85.166/main/productdetails.php?text=9772&category=3010.b44xx

Bump: If anyone doesn't know the answer, it's cool!!!!

[SimonBes]

For this motor: http://www.teamnovak.com/products/br...8.5/index.html
Which of the supplied pinion gears should I use?
Also, can you just use the velcro to attach the body, or must you use the snap-pins too?!
Thanks!

[A.J. Gee]

Originally Posted by SimonBes

For this motor: http://www.teamnovak.com/products/br...8.5/index.html
Which of the supplied pinion gears should I use?
Also, can you just use the velcro to attach the body, or must you use the snap-pins too?!
Thanks!

You can use either one of the supplied pinions 17,23 if I call correctly. The 17 will give you more low end speed (acceleration but a lower top end. and the 23 gives u a higher top end speed, but slower acceleration. You can experiment with a range of pinions. I would go with the 6.5 motor rather than the 8.5, but that's just me. Are you new to the hobby? Also are you on a budget but looking for brushless equipment that's just as good as that Novak. Hit me up if you are. PM style. You can use velcro for the front part of the body (right up until where your suppose to attach the foam pieces on the sides of the body and then just use pins for the back. That's what I did.

[A.J. Gee]

Originally Posted by widnerkj

Well, my Baldre is now painted up. And I'm a sucker for posting pictures. Being overseas makes it completely impossible to get the proper paint, leaving me to scrounge the base for whatever spraypaint I can find. On this I used some VERY weird fast drying enamel. It's flat black, and called "Ammunition Top Coat" All I know is, it smells terriable, must be toxic / caustic, and I was afraid it'd melt the body. The can was pretty much empty, and I ran out before I could paint the wing.

Hey, good looking Baldre you got there brother. And yes, this is a great forum for information. I also wanted to say good luck over there in Afghanistan. Blow some heads off of those CIA trained terrorists for us. I was Army from 2001- 2005 so I know your situation. Hang in there and occupy yourself with the wonderful hobby of R/C in the mean time, but stay alert, aware, and ready yourself mentally for the worst situation that you can possibly think of and you'll be good. No picking the pot plants or opium either, ha ha JK. Enough preaching on my behalf, but good luck and god bless. Oh and when you come back, don't expect to get a job right away unless your re enlist or know someone that can hook you up. The Economy is in complete fucking shambles and it's only gonna get worse. The dollar is dead, so just be prepared for looking at a new type of currency in the years to come. Sorry to leave you on such a sour note, but I only speak the truth brother. Ya dig...

[Indie]

Has anyone found a major difference in space between the Durga and Baldre bodyshells? I've read in a few other places that the Bladre shell is actually a better fit for the DB-01 Chassis

[T4miy4 Guy]

Baldre shell has better air flow buy far...and better speedo and motor clearance

And looks better

Andy

[Indie]

Cheers for the reply Andy,

I agree, the Baldre looks so much nicer, I think I shall have to sort myself out a new shell, Not everly keen on the Durga shell myself.



This is my Durga, Not done much to it as of yet, but have some bits on the way to repair the damage from the last outing Suspension mounts I've found to be a real weak point.

[A.J. Gee]

I personally like the looks of the Durga shell, but like most body shells, a proper paint job can really spruce things up as with a cheesy looking paint job using some of the supplied decals, such as with the Baldre can be a real turn off. I must say that I've seen some really cool looking Baldre shells that stuck with a basic concept, using none of the supplied decals (maybe a few) and it was like day and night between the box art body for the Baldre. If I ever do replace the shell for my Durga, I will be going with the Baldre (What the hell is a damn Baldre anyways? Jeez Louise Tamiya!!, Lol.) but sticking with a simple scheme as mentioned, (maybe a nice White, with the use of black decals and clear windows of course.) I think this will bring out the real beauty of the dynamics used for this particular body, as opposed to the box art which literally makes me want to regergetate. LOL. There's a very nice looking pic of one somewhere in the photo section of Oople that tickled my fancy. It may have been Mr. Hupo's if I recall correctly.

[DCM]

the Baldre shell is a snug fit round the chassis, so if you are racing, or am concerned about dirt getting in, use it, if you are not, then choose the one you like!!

[A.J. Gee]

Originally Posted by DCM

the Baldre shell is a snug fit round the chassis, so if you are racing, or am concerned about dirt getting in, use it, if you are not, then choose the one you like!!

I am concerned with sand getting inside. Besides your info providing the assurance that the Baldre be a better fit than the Durga which I hreatly appreciate as always, do you know of ,or have u heard anything in regards to those little diff protectors that they sell now as an upgrade for the DB01 series? I only ask, because I would really like to keep the whole drive train(Diffs included) free of fine sand especially for this one spot that I love to go to, but have had to do way too much maintenance afterwards to make it even worth going back to for more rounds. Thanks.