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#2261
27-11-2009
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Seal the holes
AJ Gee,
to stop sand or dirt from contaminating the inside of the DB01, don't forget to seal the two holes that lead to the lower motor mounting screw. One on the outside and one in the battery compartment close to the spur-slipper. BOTH! Stef. 
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#2262
07-12-2009
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Well, a lot of bashing, a few months of sitting around a lot, some frantic races at the local dirt track (which made me break about $60 in hinge pins, a-arms, ball diffs, belts... even more than usual bashing breaks.. the 4.5 Novak motor REALLY likes to eat diffs and belts) and then a little longer sitting.
I just got around to taking it back out this weekend after some more new a-arms and hinge pins and a full rebuild to lube and clean everything. I shimmed a lot of stuff that was wiggly, too.    Doesn't look quite fresh and new anymore  I've got to pick up a Baldre body and my 4th set of tires.
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#2263
21-12-2009
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Radio?
What radio do people recommend?
I was looking at the 2 channel Futaba: http://www.futaba-rc.com/radios/futk1200.html which I can get for US$110, but not sure if it is good enough for my DB01R! Do I require the more expensive  version: http://2.4gigahertz.com/systems/futk2021.htmlThanks!
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#2264
23-12-2009
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Hi DB01 fans, i have read this whole thread and the one on rctech too over the last week or so (there were a few late nights) and ive picked up an amazing amount of info on this car, i just got a db01r and wanted to know as much about the car and what i can do to it.
Heres my plan, i'll be running 17.5, and i want the thing close to bullet proof, so im thinking i want to run basically ta05 diffs front and rear, using the precision out drives, 36T pulleys, and the keyed diff rings, the benefits will be lighter diffs, reliable because im not relying on glue to keep the rings in place and it gears the car taller internally to 2:1, downside is only a 6 ball diff as opposed to 12 standard, but i can live with that i think. i know lots of people have run glued rings and had no problems but some have had them come undone, i dont want that happening while im leading an A main, i'll get the TA05 battery strap too, i run 5000 lipos, so the strap will work better i think, also i plan to dremel flat the raised bits in the battery tray area of the chassis so the battery will sit as low as possible. i'll get the flourine coated pivot balls for the hinge pins. im a losi man, so ive already fitted losi shocks to it, which match the length of the shocks that came with the db01r, so it will just be a matter of sorting out a setup. i'll think about getting a centre one-way, i know a lot of people have said it transforms the car, i dont like front one ways, i rather have a diff in the front so thats a tuning option i'll keep in mind. A couple of questions if anyone could please help me out Has anyone tried putting a TA05 mainshaft into the db01, what i would like to do is run the ta05 main shaft, for the direct drive but then still be able to put the centre one way on and run an 18 tooth pulley for the rear, anyone know if the parts are compatible, i havent seen the touring car in the flesh but from the manual it looks like it should probably all work, i know slippers are handy but in 17.5 its not needed and the slipper shaft sticking out will get in the way of cooling Cooling, has anyone got any good cooling solutions worked out for this car, i havnt test fitted the motor to see what sort of clearance there is between the motor and the body (Baldre) but if anyone has any big heatsink/fan setups that fit in, please let me know, i race in a hot climate and we gear the 17.5s tall thanks for any advice you have and thanks for all the posts in these threads that have helped me pick up so much in such a short time, ive already pm'd a few people on here, pete and dan who have been very helpful Migs Last edited by Migs; 23-12-2009 at 12:58 PM. Reason: spelling
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#2265
23-12-2009
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Happy to help.
You won't need any of the TA05 parts (except maybe the battery strap - that is pretty cool).. The TRF501X aluminum diff halves and plates 'do not' require any glue, even though they are not keyed. They only need a little diff grease between them and are held fast by the friction and pressure of the two metal parts. I have raced with the TRF501X diff halves for the past year and can confirm that they are tough as nails and work perfectly. Dremeling the battery tray should not be necessary. Hard pack LiPO's sit pretty low in the stock tray.. You may need to add some high density adhesive foam to the underside of the TA05 battery strap since it is thinner than the plastic kit strap. The foam works pretty good to fill the gap. Cooling is not a problem with the right gearing and the heat sink plate included with the DB-01R (make sure the apply computer thermal grease to the metal surface between the motor mount and the heat sink plate). I have had good success keeping my temps low with a Novak 6.5T and a Durga body 'without' the hot weather cut.. The only cuts I made were to the intake and outake vents in the body design. I then covered these with fly screen to keep out debris. - I race outdoors on a hard dirt track in Southern California during the summer and can still keep my motor temps on the lower side. You mentioned gearing tall which should still be OK if you are club racing. Races in the USA run 5min a piece (we run 2 qualifiers and a final). At 5min, gearing can be pushed up a bit. The center one-way is awesome if you run off-road on lower grip surfaces (such as dirt). This is when it can really shine to improve handling. It won't really do much if you race on indoor high grip surfaces like tarmac or carpet. The front one-way is used instead for high grip indoor conditions. Let me know if you have any additional questions. Quote:
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#2266
24-12-2009
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Cool thanks, i guess the needs of a mod a mod runner using 6.5 is different to that of a 17.5 runner, ive not heard of the 501x diff halves being aluminium unless ur referring to the 3 Racing HD ones, but either way my aim in building this car is to have it light in the drive train as possible, which reduces rotational mass, so the thing will accelerate quicker and have a better top speed, so the plastic outdrives will be better than aluminium and much better than steel outdrives, same deal with the ta05 layshaft, i guess i really just want to know if it can be done, and unless its something that wont work, its worth trying because it all the little weight savings will add up
The dremelling, again, is it an issue? i think all the nubs on the chassis there are non structural, they dont make the chassis stronger or stiffer, they're there to hold nimh batts in place, i'll be running lipo with a dead flat bottom, so having it sit as low as possible in the chassis is always better Our racing is also 5 mins, to get the best out of the 17.5s we gear them right up to the limit, so cooling is always an issue, that computer themal grease idea is a great one, i guess i'll put in whatever heat sink i have now that fits and check temps and go from there, the big motor mount is like a big heat sink, so you could be right in that this car probably should naturally run a little cooler than others because of its design Again, thanks for all your help with all this, i guess what im looking for is for someone to say "no migs the ta05 diff wont work for this reason" or "dont dremel the chassis because of this", i want this car to be the best is can be in 17.5, all these little things will help it be that
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#2267
24-12-2009
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Hi Migs, there's no issue with dremelling the lugs out of the chassis, I know at least one person who has done it to accomodate a fat lipo (only to discover that changing to the TA05 battery brace would have solved the problem!) Whether it will give you a noticable improvement I don't know sorry.
I'm also unable to comment on the TA05 diffs, they should fit fine but as I run 6.5 I just wanted the durability of the TRF501/511 outdrives, same for the layshaft as I would always run a slipper. And finally, I've never had cooling problems and have never cut any vents out but that's mainly to stop the rain and mud getting in! I have a standard DB01 chassis and motor mount, so no extra cooling from them either.
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#2268
24-12-2009
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Quote:
), My DB-01 will be virtually sand proof to the bone. This will be great for the summer while running it through sand hills and jumps out in the dunes. So much fun especially with the power of BL/Lipo combined. The buggy acts as if nothing can stop it, as it cruises like a hovercraft across the hills and over the jumps which I'm able to get about 15 or so feet in the air and a distance of about 25 feet. The best part about screwing up a landing at those distances is the fact that no damage occurs, due to the soft cushioned impact. Can't wait for the warm weather to roll around as I always am. 
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#2269
27-12-2009
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Quote:
The ta05 bits i'll research a bit more but if i dont need big cooling, then i can leave the slipper in
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#2270
28-12-2009
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Could anyone kindly let me know if the Associated (B44) front hex wheel adapters work on the DB01 as well as the rear axle blue spacer? I assume the rear body wing from the B44 works for the DB01, but if anyone knows first hand i would greatly appreciate it. I will provide the links for the parts that I'm referring to.... Thanks Guys.
Front hex adapters-http://67.199.85.166/main/productdetails.php?text=9750&category=3010.b44xx Rear axle spacers-http://67.199.85.166/main/productdetails.php?text=9608&category=3010.b44xx Rear wing/spoiler-http://67.199.85.166/main/productdetails.php?text=9772&category=3010.b44xx  
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#2271
28-12-2009
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The front hex wheel adapters do not fit (I believe it was a difference between the metric and standard measurements of the two parts). I tried them once when I was desperate and the diameter was too small to fit the axle.
I would assume that the rear blue spacers would also not work - but I have not tested them. The rear B44 wing works just fine since you can mark and ream the mounting holes yourself. I have used a few B44 rear wings when I needed a replacement for racing. The only proper parts to substitute the hex adapters are either the original Tamiya part, the 3rd party direct replacement adapter from Tobee Craft, or the 12mm hex adapter kits from Tobee Craft or Yeah Racing [yup, Tobee Craft makes "2" different hex adapter replacements for the DB-01]. If you need links for these parts, please let me know. Quote:
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#2272
28-12-2009
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Quote:
Anyone know? Thanks!
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#2273
28-12-2009
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Quote:
Best bet is to see who's got what down your local club and ask if you can hold a few transmitters to see what feels comfortable (and lets not go near the debate over which is better wheel or stick!!!)
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#2274
29-12-2009
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Quote:
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#2275
29-12-2009
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oh sorry back on the cooling topic again, ive realised that the db01r still just comes with the standard cast motor mount and not the nice blue aluminium one which is meant to provide better cooling, has anyone switched to the aluminium blue motor mount and noticed a real benefit at all? its an expensive item as we all know but if it does improve temps, i'll put it on my wishlist
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#2276
29-12-2009
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Quote:
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#2277
29-12-2009
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cool AJ, just be careful too, the 12mm hex will allow ur car to run touring car rims, not the associated ones, lol, easiest option is to just stick with the tamiya or losi rims as they both work no probs, myself, i'll be drilling out some b44 hexes to fit on the front of my db01r so it will look slick running the jconcept rulux rims. catchya
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#2279
29-12-2009
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If it's the same as the 501x, then most people just use the 'all-in-one' unit taken from a Tamiya touring car. (I've forgotten which particular model. 415 I think.)
A quick search in the Tamiya forum may be your best bet. Julius.
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#2280
29-12-2009
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Quote:
I agree 100% that the J-Concept wheels are awesome and they look great on the DB-01. P.S. Just to check, I will see if the Tobee Craft direct replacement hexes (-not- the 12mm ones) are any thicker than the stock Tamiya hexes.
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Tamiya
Linear Mode
