Show us ya DEX210's

[mikeyscott]

I haven't decided what side to mount the ESC.

[sly]

Noel of Cream rc is making these 24grams direct replacement stainless steel weights for the stock plastic parts front and back of the cells, extra but of bling but also could be used as a tuning aid

[kabilay]

Originally Posted by jonathan may

speedpassion gt2.0?

SP 2 from another angle from Tresrey Blog
http://tresreyblog.com/?month=201110...d2972b4aafce51

[sheddy]

Got my speed passion GT2 in. fitted fine, just waiting for new wire to turn up

[jonathan may]

Were can I get the smaller so power cap

[mikeyscott]

MMM LPF with the small capacitor.

The LPF capacitor? Schumacher are the distributors for SP gear, so have a look on their website www.racing-cars.com

[Dazzler]

Originally Posted by kabilay

SP 2 from another angle from Tresrey Blog
http://tresreyblog.com/?month=201110...d2972b4aafce51

Mid motor, rear mounted shocks, interesting...

[Origineelreclamebord]

Click here for my build thread I have on Tamiyaclub I find it a very inspiring design, so it's worth sharing it with the Tamiya fanbase. May it serve as an inspiratin to do more innovative designs than the TRF201 Even if that is a lovely bit of kit as well!

[losichris]

Originally Posted by Origineelreclamebord

Click here for my build thread I have on Tamiyaclub I find it a very inspiring design, so it's worth sharing it with the Tamiya fanbase. May it serve as an inspiratin to do more innovative designs than the TRF201 Even if that is a lovely bit of kit as well!

Hurry and do the diff! im having a nightmare with mine...keeps slipping!

[Marc0]

Build finished, will do electronic tomorrow :

[OneKiwi]

where did you get the nice red stuff from?

[Origineelreclamebord]

Originally Posted by OneKiwi

where did you get the nice red stuff from?

Lower caps from dampers are the 'standard' alu ones featured on the DESC410R's big bore shocks for example. The red washers may be Tresrey?

Originally Posted by losichris

Hurry and do the diff! im having a nightmare with mine...keeps slipping!

I read some people are having trouble with it yeah, I'll read through the 'issues' topic first to see what problems people are having. I'll put some extra attention into building the diff, and try to show what steps need to be taken to build the diff correctly - though it is a first time I'm building this diff too, so I can't promise I'll do it right the first time

Mr.Skelding's advice may help though, it makes sense, so I'll be off to get me the circlip pliers. It can be done without, but the chance of damaging the circlip is pretty high then, which could explain the trouble everyone is having.

Originally Posted by Adam Skelding

I'll try and clear a couple of issues up on here:

1. Shocks shafts are correct in the kit. Just make sure you have fitted the rubber bumpstop onto the shock shaft before you fit the rod end.. Also once the spring perch is on there the piston doesn't break the top of the body.

We've had no issues throughout testing with shocks sticking at full compression.

As for the option part page, the 52mm shaft shouldn't be listed there. I'll get it removed today. It's also in the manual...

2. Diff - Circlip. It's best to install the circlip with some good Circlip pliers. It can be rendered useless if you try and force it in... A few tips here to help ensure your diff is built correctly.
a. There are two sides to the clip a flat side and a rounded side. When you install the circlip keep the 'flat' side facing you this way when under pressure from the thrust race the contact faces between the clip and the diff ring are the flat ones.

b. One the circlip is installed. Try to open it out a little either with the circlip pliers you just installed it with. Or insert a large flat blade screw driver between the open ends of the circlip and give the screwdriver a twist, this will open the circlip back out a little removing any 'shrinkage' of the clip on installation.

c. Make sure you put in the diff screw and T-nut in the correct sides. It builds differently to other diffs out there. Don't just build it 'the way you have been building ball diffs for 20 odd years'.

3. Breakages.
Shock Towers
These are always hard ones to justify... Sometimes when you break something you only see the end result of part that has already been weakened. We broke towers in testing and in racing, but TBH they were justified. We have towers from the production batch and the mix is good.

Steering.
Honestly, we never saw a broken one of these during testing, it must have been a really hefty hit.. We even did some testing at Coventry so we know what to expect from the track.

[Big G]

Originally Posted by Dazzler

Mid motor, rear mounted shocks, interesting...

only the mounts on the tower are on the back. wishbones are still the 'right' way round. could just be an error in the build lol

[Dazzler]

Originally Posted by Big G

only the mounts on the tower are on the back. wishbones are still the 'right' way round. could just be an error in the build lol

I've thought about it a little more, and think it's probably part way through a rear motor to mid motor change..

[SHY]

Originally Posted by Diesel

Just finished my colors

Wow! Very original & cool paintjobs there man!!! Done yourself?

And what shell is that cab forward on the DEX410?

[hottuna]

I can't understand i haven't seen one car yet here with motor cables long enough to swap to RM
It's the main idea of this construction, to be able to rebuild quick between two practice heat. I think this "race" of nicest install makes people forget about this.

[Big G]

the SP V3 has plugs so I could make up extensions to run RM setup. Just need to also make all little bracket so no shorting can happen

[OneKiwi]

Originally Posted by hottuna

I can't understand i haven't seen one car yet here with motor cables long enough to swap to RM
It's the main idea of this construction, to be able to rebuild quick between two practice heat. I think this "race" of nicest install makes people forget about this.

I think that people choose what they want to drive and stick with that, and that soldering new wires doesn't take that long, I think that most have a solder iron and wires in their kit bags anyway.

The hardcore just have 2 cars one in each configuration

[mikeyscott]

Originally Posted by hottuna

I can't understand i haven't seen one car yet here with motor cables long enough to swap to RM
It's the main idea of this construction, to be able to rebuild quick between two practice heat. I think this "race" of nicest install makes people forget about this.

Due to the track surfaces I race on I'll be leaving it in a MM4 config.

[hottuna]

Originally Posted by OneKiwi

I think that people choose what they want to drive and stick with that, and that soldering new wires doesn't take that long, I think that most have a solder iron and wires in their kit bags anyway.

The hardcore just have 2 cars one in each configuration

Well, everyone choose what they want
The main reason i bought the car (other than it's a Durango ) is that i want to be able to change it from RM to MM at races. If you go to a track you have never raced on, do you rely on what other ppl say, or do you want to test what's best for you.

I wouldn't like to pick up the soldering gear, maybe even take out the ESC and make good soldering + rebuild in about 30 min.

I have 2 cars, but will only use 2 rear ends to swap quickly.