|
#221
|
||||
|
||||
But don't forget to fit the rear bumper...
|
#222
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Deffo the best solution, But not everyone has access to a lathe |
#223
|
||||
|
||||
The bumper and antiroll bar fitting was fitted after. I just took the pic quickly on an uncluttered rear end so it was clear what had been done.
I did say under the pic that the same job can also be done using a file or Dremel. |
#224
|
||||
|
||||
Thanks för all the build tips guys. My build went perfect thanks to this thread. Forgot to fit the rear bumper though
__________________
Durango DEX410 - SP GT V2.0 Pro - SP 6.5R - Savöx 1258 - Sanwa M11X Durango DEX210 - Orion R10 Pro - Orion VST 8.5R - Savöx 1258 - Sanwa M11X |
#225
|
|||
|
|||
Best tip so far! I just put the screws in my mill and did the same, great tip
|
#226
|
||||
|
||||
just finished my build and this was the only issue i had. good idea, ill be removing the lower threads from the screws tomorrow
|
#227
|
||||
|
||||
Finished mine and the above was not an issue you just screw the long ones almost to the end and then, use the plastic part with the nuts to finish the assemply with just a few more turns
|
#228
|
||||
|
||||
Last night i finished mine. Not any issues with the assemply. Neither with the diff or any other part. Just followed the instructions.
Perfect fit of the parts underlying the high quality of the kit. And i suppose since the production kit was assembled and tested by the team, if there was any faults in assemply, it should be noted. Thus if any of us had issues i believe that is due to our rushness for quich assembly and overlapping steps,just to finish quicker and enjoy this kit. |
#229
|
||||
|
||||
THose that are having problems with the ball cups falling off are you swapping them out for something else?
|
#230
|
||||
|
||||
Falling off? It is hard to remove them in order to make adjustments.I use the screw driver for leverage in order to remove them. I don't know how are falling off?
|
#231
|
||||
|
||||
ok not falling off but poping off, there has been a fair few comments here and there is a lot of problems with that in the US
|
#232
|
||||
|
||||
To do that to the screws and you have no lathe
Simply put the screw in the chuck of a drill driver leave the area to be removed proud and spin it up against a file / abrasive paper etc till smooth Easy and accessible HTH
__________________
|
#233
|
||||
|
||||
I've run the HD ball cups on my DEX410 for 8-10 meetings now indoors and outdoors and never had a ball cup pop off.
Circumstances will be different between racers so it could be anything that caused the pop... |
#234
|
||||
|
||||
I have heard that the 410 ball cups are better than the 210 ones.
People (rctech) haven't had issues with the older 410/R ones. Maybe they are a little softer |
#235
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
HD are stronger and i suppose that in order of an HD to pop off we are talking for major crashes.I prefer that than destroying my servo.With a destroyed servo you cannot continue the race. +$$$$. With a popped ballcup you can continue immediatelly. TD proceeded with update (HD) because the standrd 410/R cups were popping of. |
#236
|
|||
|
|||
Guys,
When the spare parts should be available ? |
#237
|
||||
|
||||
Think I heard 210 spares are in today in some shops, but don't count me on that.
|
#238
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
|
#239
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#240
|
|||
|
|||
my clumsy hamfisted driving with the old/original ball cups would lead to one or two popping off everytime i used the car (410), jumps, crashes, bounces off the track dividers, all would cause popping.
The newer HD cups (as supplied with the 210 and the V3) i've only popped two off, both times after sliding into a kerb/wall at speed. (and it was the same ball cup, i suspect i may have damaged it, if it pops again this week i'll replace it!) |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|