Team Tekin Q&A - Page 85

neallewis · #**1681** 25-11-2013

Kartstuffer,

I had this problem on my 7.5 gen2 and RS Pro. I swapped in the sensor board from my Gen2 5.5 and it all went away. I'd say try a new sensor board on the motor.

kartstuffer · #**1682** 26-11-2013

I checked the rotor and it shows better than a brand new one and the sensors all work fine on the tester ,, I did change the diff oil from 7&5 k to 10&10 k but will go through the car and see if anything is binding !
Neal I tried a lrp motor which works perfectly with an orca speed controller but I just like the feel of the Tekin and I want it to work.
Randy this is the set up kev lee uses.

neallewis · #**1683** 26-11-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by kartstuffer

I checked the rotor and it shows better than a brand new one and the sensors all work fine on the tester ,, I did change the diff oil from 7&5 k to 10&10 k but will go through the car and see if anything is binding !
Neal I tried a lrp motor which works perfectly with an orca speed controller but I just like the feel of the Tekin and I want it to work.
Randy this is the set up kev lee uses.

My Gen2 faulty sensor board showed up fine on the sensor checker. Just broke down 4.5mins into a race and all went wrong, exactly as you describe. I'd say under heat, load and stress of running in a race, it caused the fault to show. Fine on the bench though, ran perfect.

I also swapped to other motors and they ran fine, nothing i could set on the RS pro would stop it not from occurring. ran no timing (on can), ran the various tame profiles, dual drive, blinky, etc. all caused the motor to show the fault at ~4+ mins into a race. In the end I swapped my sensor board out of my 5.5 Gen 2 and the motor was perfect again. I ran the suspect sensor board in my 5.5 and it failed at about 3.5 mins.

Randy p · #**1684** 26-11-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by kartstuffer

I checked the rotor and it shows better than a brand new one and the sensors all work fine on the tester ,, I did change the diff oil from 7&5 k to 10&10 k but will go through the car and see if anything is binding !
Neal I tried a lrp motor which works perfectly with an orca speed controller but I just like the feel of the Tekin and I want it to work.
Randy this is the set up kev lee uses.

A sensor board that does fail in/out could do something like this, he's right. And they're hard to catch doing this also.

kartstuffer · #**1685** 28-11-2013

Thanks guys , will try and let you know what happens

kartstuffer · #**1686** 04-12-2013

Hi guys ,
I tried this again last sunday and i finished the heats but was still losing power ( cutting out ) at the 5 minute mark and coming in at 64deg c after a race.
I could get to the finish if i did no warm up laps.
I also tried a LRP 6.5 motor and it did the same.
Is there any way of getting the RS Pro and redline motor properly checked ??
Thanks again for your help.

Randy p · #**1687** 05-12-2013

You would need to send it in for service to inspect it. But yes it can be done.

Danny Harrison · #**1688** 15-12-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by Randy p

You would need to send it in for service to inspect it. But yes it can be done.

I'm having this problem now too. No changes made, ran it for last 3 month with no issues. Today its stopping 2-3 min into a race (5.5). What's chance of a warrenty repair? I've ran as per instructions with 0 timing, no boost etc.

edit.
Could it be a bad batch? Mine came from same shop as Neal lewis' roughly the same time. My gen1 was bulletproof.

Randy p · #**1689** 16-12-2013

There's no "bad" batches lol. I hate that "thought"

We can inspect and test anything. Often times though when an esc out of nowhere is getting hotter than before the silver cap has failed and should be replaced.

Danny Harrison · #**1690** 21-12-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by Randy p

There's no "bad" batches lol. I hate that "thought"

We can inspect and test anything. Often times though when an esc out of nowhere is getting hotter than before the silver cap has failed and should be replaced.

Thanks. After trying many things. It turned out that having the lvc at 6.3v was my problem. Under load voltage of cells was dropping below it. Put it on 1cell and its run fine all night. New lipo time I guess.

Would still love an RSX though. Watching closely.

Randy p · #**1691** 23-12-2013

Glad it's been sorted.

Ross · #**1692** 30-12-2013

I'm running a Gen1 8.5 tekin motor and RSPro in my RB6. The speedo is set to 100% brakes and the hand set is bound at 100% for brakes. The brakes are fine for high speed brakeing, for instance the straight at Silverstone indoor club the car will brake fine, but on slow stuff it's not as good.

I have the same issue on my DB1 as well, that has a Gen 2 and RSPro in it.

Any ideas what this sue could be. I don't think it's slipper or diff giving way as they seem OK.

Cheers
Ross

Randy p · #**1693** 09-01-2014

Ross,

Is your RS Pro running 223? If so where is your active brake set?

What do you mean by "not as good" in the infield?

Ross · #**1694** 09-01-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by Randy p

Ross,

Is your RS Pro running 223? If so where is your active brake set?

What do you mean by "not as good" in the infield?

Hi Randy

Its running 212,should i upgrade to 223?

If im braking at the end of a fast straight then the brakes are fine, but through tight technical sections there not as good.

Ross · #**1695** 09-01-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ross

Hi Randy

Its running 212,should i upgrade to 223?

If im braking at the end of a fast straight then the brakes are fine, but through tight technical sections there not as good.

Sorry its on 223 not 212

Randy p · #**1696** 10-01-2014

Try my brake proflie:

Active brake 0(1 if it's super high bite)
Brake Strength at 100

Use your epa's to control the overall power.

If you need more initial push brake "power" up your active brake.

Ross · #**1697** 10-01-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by Randy p

Try my brake proflie:

Active brake 0(1 if it's super high bite)
Brake Strength at 100

Use your epa's to control the overall power.

If you need more initial push brake "power" up your active brake.

thanks I'll give that ago.

ScoobyECFC · #**1698** 30-01-2014

Hi all,

I need some advise regarding my Tekin RS Pro, as I'm not sure if I've blown something.

When I switch it on, rather than the normal combination of LEDs lighting up, I just seem to get all 5 very dimly lit LEDs, and no power going through to the motor. I've recently changedmy reciever/controller, although im pretty sure this has nothing to do with it as the steering still works.

Any ideas?

Steve

Randy p · #**1699** 31-01-2014

Steve,

Unplug the esc from the receiver, unplug the sensor harness from the esc side. Power it up? Result the same?

ScoobyECFC · #**1700** 03-02-2014

Hi Randy, apologies for the delay in responding.

Exactly the same result, just a line of dimly lit LEDs...

Steve