sv2 lower rear shock tower mod

[jonathan may]

any one know what has to be done to do this mod on the sv2

[Martyn (Bomber)]

Originally Posted by jonathan may

any one know what has to be done to do this mod on the sv2

Dremel the shock mount where it sits on the gearbox by 4mm and then re-drill the two fixing holes above the original holes where needed.

Just make sure the drive shaft bones sit in the diff output's when at full droop and all will be good, you would have to seriously do something wrong with the shock mount for them to come out anyway

Here's mine and as you can see the original fixing holes are half cut away :

[mark christopher]

other than more droop whats the advantage?

[Mossy]

I did it at stotfold earlier in the year during testing as i thought we needed more droop on the rear end. For me droop was the main motivation, but i felt it gave more forward traction and better side bite due to more shock travel.

Si

[Martyn (Bomber)]

It made my car feel planted over the rutted bumpy sections, that's 90% of my local track so it was a worthwhile mod for me

[mark christopher]

Originally Posted by Mossy

I did it at stotfold earlier in the year during testing as i thought we needed more droop on the rear end. For me droop was the main motivation, but i felt it gave more forward traction and better side bite due to more shock travel.

Si

cheers Simon, would you run at worksop indoors? and would fitting the longer ball cups have the same effect?

[jonathan may]

do you drill the new screw holes 4mm from the centre of the old holes ?
you pic looks a lot more then 4mm

[mark christopher]

Originally Posted by jonathan may

do you drill the new screw holes 4mm from the centre of the old holes ?

think im just going to try the longer ball cups which are about 4mm longer

[Mossy]

Yes you need to drill 4mm from the middle of the orignal hole, must make sure the bottom of the shock mount still sits on the gearbox housing - makes it abit stronger.

Mark - im not a massive fan of running longer ball grippas on the shocks. My opinion it takes away spring travel so therefor isnt as effective as dropping the mount. I did look at the longer grippa's but wasnt convinced when testing back to back

Si

[Martyn (Bomber)]

Originally Posted by jonathan may

do you drill the new screw holes 4mm from the centre of the old holes ?
you pic looks a lot more then 4mm

As Simon said, I drilled 4mm from the centre of the stock holes

[mark christopher]

Originally Posted by Mossy

Yes you need to drill 4mm from the middle of the orignal hole, must make sure the bottom of the shock mount still sits on the gearbox housing - makes it abit stronger.

Mark - im not a massive fan of running longer ball grippas on the shocks. My opinion it takes away spring travel so therefor isnt as effective as dropping the mount. I did look at the longer grippa's but wasnt convinced when testing back to back

Si

bear with me plz simon as i think im getting confused.
if i lift the spring cup 4mm and wind the adjusting collar up 4mm, how is spring travel altered? plz remember im old and easy confused

[MattW]

Mark, if you put a 4mm longer ball cup on the shock, then you are taking 4mm out of the "up travel" as the actual ball will be held 4mm further away from the body.

That said, if you bring the shock body down by 4mm (by lowering the tower), I think you are limiting the up travel by the same amount. Of course moving the tower has other effects - ultimately the CoG is lowered, as is the wing.

Even if both do limit the up travel, I think the piston position within the oil/body would be different at ride height. Depending on how the shock is pressured, this could make a difference to how the shock reacts, which of course could produce different results on track.