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Old 07-01-2013
dougher dougher is offline
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Default cost of electrics for new starter

HI, firstly, sorry for asking questions that's probably been asked a million times before...

1. Batteries, 25c competitive? One really enough?
2. Core 50 charger OK? Read some reliable issues on it. Alternatives?
3. How much to spend on ESC (BL)? Had recent advice that this is important to spend as much as possible
4. 8.5t BL motor been advised, any recommended motors specifically?

I'm a returning racer, but had nearly 15 years out! I'll be dragging out my losi xx kicking and screaming until it breaks, then go for 210 or sv2...

Any advice welcome :-)

Sam
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  #2  
Old 07-01-2013
Si Coe's Avatar
Si Coe Si Coe is offline
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25C isn't really enough - but C ratings are linked to capacity as well (a 20C 6000mAh pack can provide the same punch as a 40C 3000mAh pack) so the numbers themselves are meaningless.
You really want 5000mAh and 50C or more. It need not be expensive though - Turnigy Nanotechs are fine for club use and can be sourced from Hobbykings UK warehouse.
The Core charger is perfectly good. Its a popular model so if you've heard more about them breaking than others its just cos there are more out there. Its certainly no worse.
For a 2wd any 8.5t motor should provide plenty of performance for our track. Different people recommend different types but its more down to how they drive and personal preference really. I use 10.5t's myself and I've got motors from Nosram, Speed Passion, Team Wave, Novak, GM and Team Orion. They all drive differently, but with appropriate gearing all offer pretty much the same performance really.
A good ESC is certainly worth investing in - but it doesn't need to cost a fortune. A Speed Passion ESC at £85 does all you'll need for a 2wd at least.
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  #3  
Old 07-01-2013
dougher dougher is offline
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Thanks Si, that's a great help. I can't believe how cheap those batteries are, pefect to get me going! Would you advise two packs?

Thanks again
Sam
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Old 07-01-2013
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Cremegg Cremegg is offline
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Hi Si

Regarding gearing as I'm new too, I'm running a 13t motor at the moment and running a 21/74 gearing too, I had a few runs on Sunday just gone (I had the lrp twister) and few people advised me to go up to a 23T pinion? Would that get a bit more speed on the straight? And can I ask what punch control is too as mine is set 100%, is that the best setting?

Many thanks
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Old 07-01-2013
Si Coe's Avatar
Si Coe Si Coe is offline
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I wasn't really watching your heat so didn't see how it went!

Anyway yes, the bigger pinion will mean more top speed. It comes at the cost of some acceleration through the infield though so its a balance.
If you'd seen my car in the heat (red Durango 210 running in heat 4) its somewhat slower than the others down the main straight but works better through the twisty stuff which is where I make up places. There is more infield than straight!

Punch control sets how hard the car can accelerate. In slippery conditions like yesterday morning it pays to turn it down to keep the car under control, but when grip is good you can turn it up to as high as the car can handle.

Starting off I'd suggest dropping the punch control down to something like 60% and not increasing the gearing. Drive a car that is slow but doesn't crash or spin out first, and then when thats sorted up the gearing and the punch step by step.

You lose more time crashed than with a slow car. The reason I prefer 10.5t motors over the 7.5 and 8.5t's most of the others use is that I can stay out of trouble better with them! The result is that my fastest laps are never that fast, but my overall time beats drivers technically much faster than me because I make less mistakes that way.
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  #6  
Old 07-01-2013
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Cremegg Cremegg is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Si Coe View Post
I wasn't really watching your heat so didn't see how it went!

Anyway yes, the bigger pinion will mean more top speed. It comes at the cost of some acceleration through the infield though so its a balance.
If you'd seen my car in the heat (red Durango 210 running in heat 4) its somewhat slower than the others down the main straight but works better through the twisty stuff which is where I make up places. There is more infield than straight!

Punch control sets how hard the car can accelerate. In slippery conditions like yesterday morning it pays to turn it down to keep the car under control, but when grip is good you can turn it up to as high as the car can handle.

Starting off I'd suggest dropping the punch control down to something like 60% and not increasing the gearing. Drive a car that is slow but doesn't crash or spin out first, and then when thats sorted up the gearing and the punch step by step.

You lose more time crashed than with a slow car. The reason I prefer 10.5t motors over the 7.5 and 8.5t's most of the others use is that I can stay out of trouble better with them! The result is that my fastest laps are never that fast, but my overall time beats drivers technically much faster than me because I make less mistakes that way.
Hi Si, thanks for that advice

I was struggling getting up the ramp hill (after the long straight). Sometimes I made it and sometimes I didn't, more times I didn't haha

So if I lowered the punch control and had abit more acceleration, I guess I would be able to make that abit more often?

I was landing the ramp at the start ok too which I was surprised at

I've got the bug for it now some I'm definitely going to come again in February at Oldham.

Thanks again
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  #7  
Old 07-01-2013
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tisher tisher is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dougher View Post
HI, firstly, sorry for asking questions that's probably been asked a million times before...

1. Batteries, 25c competitive? One really enough?
2. Core 50 charger OK? Read some reliable issues on it. Alternatives?
3. How much to spend on ESC (BL)? Had recent advice that this is important to spend as much as possible
4. 8.5t BL motor been advised, any recommended motors specifically?

I'm a returning racer, but had nearly 15 years out! I'll be dragging out my losi xx kicking and screaming until it breaks, then go for 210 or sv2...

Any advice welcome :-)

Sam

I am still running 25c cells in my 2wd and still put it in the A final every time I run it
I would look for a 2nd hand esc lrp sxx tc spec are cheap now and you can buy upgrade kits to make them right up to date I just put one together for less than 60quid
I would invest your money in a 210 because no matter how good you used to be you will not be A final competitive unless you run a modern car
motor wise 7.5t to 8.5t for 2wd 6.5 to 5.5t for 4wd running 25c cells will take the punch out of a lower wind motor anyway I run a 6.5t in my b4 with out any issue
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  #8  
Old 08-01-2013
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Lee1972 Lee1972 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tisher View Post
I am still running 25c cells in my 2wd and still put it in the A final every time I run it
I would look for a 2nd hand esc lrp sxx tc spec are cheap now and you can buy upgrade kits to make them right up to date I just put one together for less than 60quid
I would invest your money in a 210 because no matter how good you used to be you will not be A final competitive unless you run a modern car
motor wise 7.5t to 8.5t for 2wd 6.5 to 5.5t for 4wd running 25c cells will take the punch out of a lower wind motor anyway I run a 6.5t in my b4 with out any issue
Martin,
Did you fit your LRP with the new stock mod and did you use a UK supplier? Reason for me asking is that I've been looking but can only find them on the continent.
Lee
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