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  #141  
Old 12-01-2013
gixxer gixxer is offline
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Originally Posted by s22jgs View Post
Anyone found pistons that are the correct size for the body and shaft and e clip style?
I'm a cnc machinist if you can measure them up accurately I can turn you up some blank pistons which you can drill yourself

Let me know if thats of any interest to you
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  #142  
Old 12-01-2013
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I'll measure them in a few matey
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  #143  
Old 12-01-2013
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Sly is that a shorty or a 1s?
How do you find the steering with even less weight ?
The cells are a stubby pack and the dualsky sits at the back of the servo brace with about 8/9mm spare for added weight if needed.
I had no problem for steering last sunday the car had loads for are astro indoors, loads of rear side bite and traction forward was almost 4wd feeling.

I have fitted some durango rims so i can use them tires up but it does take the width up 250 max.
I also have done away with the e clips and bought some spare shock shafts for the car and machined and taped the end 3mm and fitted them on the rear.
the front e clips have also been replace with the spare shock shaft but need trimming in lenght first.
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  #144  
Old 12-01-2013
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Originally Posted by sly View Post
The cells are a stubby pack and the dualsky sits at the back of the servo brace with about 8/9mm spare for added weight if needed.
I had no problem for steering last sunday the car had loads for are astro indoors, loads of rear side bite and traction forward was almost 4wd feeling.

I have fitted some durango rims so i can use them tires up but it does take the width up 250 max.
I also have done away with the e clips and bought some spare shock shafts for the car and machined and taped the end 3mm and fitted them on the rear.
the front e clips have also been replace with the spare shock shaft but need trimming in lenght first.
The losi 22 threaded hinge pins could save a lot of hassle there
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  #145  
Old 14-01-2013
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so how did people go with their h2's over the weekend?
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  #146  
Old 14-01-2013
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Further improvements yesterday,the blue/yellow spring combo suited the car much better,changing to AE black grease in the diff was the biggest improvement and felt just about spot on,plenty thick enough to stop the car diffing out but still keeping the diff action nice and free,the saddle pack layout does really seem to be suiting the car also.

Really good feedback from people watching the car yesterday,and seeing how it had improved from its first meeting out.
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  #147  
Old 14-01-2013
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i guess the black grease is the same theory as using 650 shock oil in the diff. Personally id rather use the oil COs its easier to clean and can be tuned per track

in resisting modifying mine for the side by side saddles. The car lacks front weight so a full stick helps a little with that, along with the 70g weight i have on the servo

what surface are you running on Jason? We found that the car needed a harder rear spring to stop it collapsing so much and keep some weight to the front to reduce understeer
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  #148  
Old 14-01-2013
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All of the racing i do is outdoor offroad,yesterday was bumpy wet astro with a few jumps and lots of sections with alot of direction changes.

I have been making weights up today for the front end so i will test them at the weekend,im currently only running 20g added weight up the front,having it in saddle and the electrics up front seems to work for me,yesterday i was taking front end away as im getting so much grip and steering out of the car.

I will start playing with oils in the diff once i have the car how i want it,at the minute the AE grease is about right so its 1 less thing i can leave and work on other things.

The main thing feedback wise from yesterday was how much grip and front end im generating in the wet conditions,i can really car the car hard into corners,also yesterday i was running the Dboot multibytes B compound and they also seem to give plenty of grip in the wet
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  #149  
Old 14-01-2013
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Interesting lol. Front end grip was the one thing I was lacking.
Hence the setup I'm now running

What holes are you running your front shocks in at the moment?

I'm running the front hubs as low as they can go now too
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  #150  
Old 14-01-2013
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front shocks im running middle tower,middle wishbone,32.5 oil and std 4 hole pistons,front hub as per kit,raised the ballstuds 3mm on the front bulkhead to calm the front end down.
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  #151  
Old 14-01-2013
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cool.... I guess if ure running saddles which are lighter and electrics up front then ure car will be less rear heavy.
the cab forward will also help.

I got a few more setup type things to try before I change the layout. I tend to rush into things but im resisting with this one..wanna exhaust all setup option before pulling out the dremel
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  #152  
Old 15-01-2013
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Just needs running now
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  #153  
Old 15-01-2013
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i ran mine tonight was a bit of a last min dash to get it built...
wired up all my elecs last night car was built it mid motor 3 gears plugged in my motor ( a b c to a b c) hit the throttle and the car goes backwards lol!had to rewire my motor wires to the wrong terminals.

what springs are y'all using when you say losi do you mean from the 22? are they a perfect fit on the cups? wanna place a order asap

another thing i'd like is bleeder shock tops does anyone know any that'll fit?

for the £ its a great kit just needs a decent setup!
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  #154  
Old 16-01-2013
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Quote:
hit the throttle and the car goes backwards lol!had to rewire my motor wires to the wrong terminals.
You just had to calibrate the speedo or reverse the throtte on the radio..
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  #155  
Old 16-01-2013
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You just had to calibrate the speedo or reverse the throtte on the radio..
No thay wouldnt change the way the motor was traveling,
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  #156  
Old 16-01-2013
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It depends which side of the gearbox you have put the spur gear.
If you have 3 gears inside, as you look from the back of the car the spur gear should be on the right.
If you've built it 3 gear and put the spur on the left then yes, it will go backwards.
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  #157  
Old 16-01-2013
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Originally Posted by KRob View Post
It depends which side of the gearbox you have put the spur gear.
If you have 3 gears inside, as you look from the back of the car the spur gear should be on the right.
If you've built it 3 gear and put the spur on the left then yes, it will go backwards.
yep its on the left... the main thing is it goes forwards now
was easier to swap the motor wire then taking everything apart
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  #158  
Old 17-01-2013
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ok so heres one for Jason or anyone else who has one of these already.

having major issues with the rear block shims for anti squat.

the setup sheet shows options of 1,2 and 3 degrees anti squat. Now logically that to me says thinnest shim under front rear block and thinnest on top of rear block for 1 degree. Middle thickness for 2 degree and thickest for 3 degree.

in the manual it shows using the thickest inserts, so 3 degrees, yet on the kit setup sheet it shows kit anti squat as 1 degree.

so how are these shims supposed to work? The real issue hear is that if my logic above is correct, then there is a design fault with the gearbox.

i say this because if you run the middle or thinnest shims, then the bottom of the gearbox, the part that rests on the chassis not pokes through, is too low. This creates a gap between the blocks and chassis and when tightened up causes the chassis to bend. This bend in turn removes all anti squat, which could explain the immense rear end grip and lack of steering.

anyone got any views on how these are supposed to work or got the same bent chassis at the rear when tightened up?
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  #159  
Old 17-01-2013
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The back block the shim stays the same at all times i think, the one with a 0 on it.
the front block, i first found the single thick shim kept the the chassis straight and gave max anti squat when under the block , then using the other shims the longer one on the bottom and the shorter(pimples both sides of it) on the top of the block you get 1 and 2 degrees.
hope this helps.
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  #160  
Old 17-01-2013
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that cant be right... otherwise why would you get different sizes of both shim.

The idea with the shims is that you put one under the front block to set the anti squat. you then put the same thickness on top of the rear block to keep the gearbox sitting level.

By putting shims on top of the front block you are not altering the antisquat, but tilting the gearbox back.

Its the same idea as the losi 22. one to set anti squat, and one to keep the gearbox level.

But the gearbox has been designed wrong and wont allow for anything lower than 3 degrees from what I can work out - and being really picky, even that creates a slight bend on the chassis too
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