Bmax4 III shorty conversion? Is there one??

[gazhillAE]

Hi guys

Looking at lee martins setups he is using a shorty
Any photos of the car ?
Is this a conversion from yokomo or an independent?

Cheers

[discothesnake]

Lee's car was sent to him by Yokomo. You can do it yourself. It's not difficult. Or wait for the official Yok one.

There's quite a few pictures in the Yokomo section.

This is mine.

[MiCk B.]

Hi,

There one listed on the CML site:

http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/cml...tId=0000008407






MiCk B. :-)

[gazhillAE]

Originally Posted by discothesnake

Lee's car was sent to him by Yokomo. You can do it yourself. It's not difficult. Or wait for the official Yok one.

There's quite a few pictures in the Yokomo section.

This is mine.

Thanks dude
Im guessing the motor is in a totally different position with your car?
Is the cml link the one you have?

Gareth

[neallewis]

Originally Posted by gazhillAE

Thanks dude
Im guessing the motor is in a totally different position with your car?
Is the cml link the one you have?

Gareth

The new chassis offers the ability to run saddles and a shorty pack. To do this you rotate the motor mount/pod, swap propshafts front and rear, and reverse the diffs. The new conversion chassis kit offers the new diff casing that have the cut outs to run the diffs reversed. You can dremel the standard casings, which is what Disco and myself have done, otherwise you need to run the motor/esc in reverse which I tried initially and it felt wrong on my setup.

Standard motor layout is this:


Disco has drilled his kit alloy chassis, I made a carbon one:





My carbon chassis is a bit flexible compared with the kit alloy chassis. I've been running mostly at RHR astro and have the saddle car working as I want. Not had enough time to get the setup right with the carbon chassis. It was very bouncy on the rear with the damper setup I had, 2x 1.6 piston/400cst, then tried 2x 1.7/350c, with a range of AE BB springs tested. Too much pack I thought. Not had time to go back and test more, and I kept the car setup how I know it works for the regional/oople meetings I've had.

One thing I did notice is that the shorty 4200mAh packs did not last too long on the track before performance drops off, compared to the 5800/6000mAh HPI/Orca saddle packs I use. It was certainly noticeable. Yes my shorty packs are hobbykings, but they perform fine in 2wd. I've not tried with "better" shorty packs, but I expect similar.

My saddle car is a heavyweight at 1919 grams, the shorty conversion shaved a good 200g off this. I like the heavy car, it's safe and suits me. I'll probably have another go with the shorty chassis after I've done my regionals.
I'm interested to see some setups from the coming Euros on clay. I suspect they will be putting more weight into the shorty car.

[skyaflake]

The one from the CML link isn't out yet. You'll have to wait a few more weeks.

[neallewis]

Originally Posted by skyaflake

The one from the CML link isn't out yet. You'll have to wait a few more weeks.

I suspect there will be a V2 kit out sometime after with the conversion chassis in the box?

[gazhillAE]

Does the kit come with a rear roll bar as standard?
Which bars?
What other options do i need?

Cheers

[discothesnake]

Yeah it comes with rear roll bar in kit.

In my opinion you don't need any upgrades. Car is great and I think in all the time I've had it I've broken one rear wishbone.

It's a good solid car.

[neallewis]

Originally Posted by gazhillAE

Does the kit come with a rear roll bar as standard?
Which bars?
What other options do i need?

Cheers

Kit comes with rear 1.5mm anti-roll bar. You won't need to go lower than this, only higher rate. I've been running 1.6mm from the roll bar kit. Just out is the rear hard kit, that comes with 1.8 and 2.0mm. You'll want this, so you can run a lighter spring. http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...lizer-set.html

You might not need front bar, but I use the 1.1mm from this kit:
http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...0mm-1-6mm.html

I run the Alu rear hubs: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...-b-max2-4.html
I think Lee Martin runs the 0.5deg, one way or other to adjust +/-ve toe.

I run alloy shock tops, but kit plastic are lighter and in favour.
http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...ock-cap-2.html

You'll want the new shock bottom ends, later kits include them however, so yours may.
http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...-cap-2pcs.html
These stop the shocks from taking in air, the v1 shock bottoms tended to do this. Only had it happen on the rear of my BMAX2, not my 4-III, but I've replaced all.

Front shock tower option is a 4mm, which I've not managed to break, but I think you will be fine with the kit (3mm unless they upgraded it in the kit), if you run a shock tower protector. I've not broken a tower or gearbox top since I've been running one.

Steering crank brace: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...b-max4iii.html
or the new arrowmax alloy part: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...-iii-7075.html
I just picked up this today. looks good.

I run the bmax4-2 rear arms, because Naoto and Lee do. Seem to work ok, but the old ones did also? http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...ntion-arm.html

I've stripped out a plastic kit servo horn, after 7-8 months of use. It's 17.5mm centre to centre, longer ones hit the body.

Anything else is either to lighten or bling. In terms of spares, keep a front gearbox. You may well break the top shock mount in a roll on carpet or astro.

Use M2x12mm CS bolts in the bottom steering crank posts, not the 8mm as listed in the manual. mine sheered off after some use, see: http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153598

Initial kits came with over hardened hinge pins. This should have been resolved now in newer kits. MB models and Yokomo.eu had a free replacement part if the kit was bought from them.

Otherwise it's a good solid car.

[skyaflake]

Originally Posted by neallewis

I suspect there will be a V2 kit out sometime after with the conversion chassis in the box?

I've been told that the new B-Max4 will be released in (or around) October with the new chassis instead of the old chassis.

I don't know if any of the other upgrades (e.g. carbon stuff, shock caps etc) will be included as well.

[gazhillAE]

Originally Posted by neallewis

Kit comes with rear 1.5mm anti-roll bar. You won't need to go lower than this, only higher rate. I've been running 1.6mm from the roll bar kit. Just out is the rear hard kit, that comes with 1.8 and 2.0mm. You'll want this, so you can run a lighter spring. http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...lizer-set.html

You might not need front bar, but I use the 1.1mm from this kit:
http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...0mm-1-6mm.html

I run the Alu rear hubs: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...-b-max2-4.html
I think Lee Martin runs the 0.5deg, one way or other to adjust +/-ve toe.

I run alloy shock tops, but kit plastic are lighter and in favour.
http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...ock-cap-2.html

You'll want the new shock bottom ends, later kits include them however, so yours may.
http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...-cap-2pcs.html
These stop the shocks from taking in air, the v1 shock bottoms tended to do this. Only had it happen on the rear of my BMAX2, not my 4-III, but I've replaced all.

Front shock tower option is a 4mm, which I've not managed to break, but I think you will be fine with the kit (3mm unless they upgraded it in the kit), if you run a shock tower protector. I've not broken a tower or gearbox top since I've been running one.

Steering crank brace: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...b-max4iii.html
or the new arrowmax alloy part: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...-iii-7075.html
I just picked up this today. looks good.

I run the bmax4-2 rear arms, because Naoto and Lee do. Seem to work ok, but the old ones did also? http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...ntion-arm.html

I've stripped out a plastic kit servo horn, after 7-8 months of use. It's 17.5mm centre to centre, longer ones hit the body.

Anything else is either to lighten or bling. In terms of spares, keep a front gearbox. You may well break the top shock mount in a roll on carpet or astro.

Use M2x12mm CS bolts in the bottom steering crank posts, not the 8mm as listed in the manual. mine sheered off after some use, see: http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153598

Initial kits came with over hardened hinge pins. This should have been resolved now in newer kits. MB models and Yokomo.eu had a free replacement part if the kit was bought from them.

Otherwise it's a good solid car.

Thank you