Rb6 set up

[tumpier]

Recently bought a used rb6,i am an occasional racer with no claims to be any good,only race outdoors on astro,not that big on set ups so after just a base set up to get me going,hop ups needed and shock pistons and stuff like that,like i say I'm only ever going to be in the bottom final and go for the fun(oh and take pictures MB RC Photography on Facebook if anyone wants to take a look) cheers Mark

[Rich D]

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/...UltimaRB6.html


Have a look on PetitRC. Lots of useful info on there for a variety of surfaces.

[Chris-S]

Mark, I have attached my setup below. For me it makes the car quite forgiving, works well in both the dry and damp, if its wet I will drop the front and rear oil and go down a spring on the front (to a red) and change tyres to suit.

[tumpier]

Thanks for that what hop ups would you recomend

[RogerM]

Hop-ups, well the car doesn't really need anything but in this order I fit;

1) aluminium steering rack (Kyosho UMW701 is best quality) - durability (plastic one is fine but it is the weakest point on the front of the car so breaks first and is a pig to change track side)

2) UM566 arm set x 2 - I prefer the feel of the car on flat arms to the kit gull-wings, generates less pitch mid corner and aids smooth rotation of the car ... you might prefer the kit gull-wing arms depending on how you drive

3) UMW705 aluminium rear arm mount - tunability - allows adjustment of rear toe in and is a little stronger (not that I've ever personally seen the kit plastic part break)

4) GECKO RC rear aluminium bulkhead - ease of rear roll centre adjustment - the kit plastic part makes it very difficult to quickly get to the inner ball studs in mid-motor configuration and the GECKO bulkhead makes it simple as the link plate is retained by 1 screw only! I'm sure the GECKO guys won't mind me saying that this part was originally my suggestion but the actual design is their own.

5) UMW707 aluminium rear arm mount - tunability - allows further adjustment of rear toe and now track width / hinge-pin spacing and is a little stronger (not that I've ever personally seen the kit plastic part break)

Other things that I prefer over stock but I'd not say I "recommend" as such are;

AVID Triad clutch - I prefer the feel of the car with it fitted, personally I think that you can run it a little looser without loosing the snap acceleration needed to clear gap jumps etc.

RudeBits Shorty Lipo Tray - I prefer the feel of the car on shortie cells, others prefer saddles. One thing is for sure the RudeBits tray is the best solution for adding weight to a shortie installation in the correct places for maximum tunability. My comment to Tony after my first run with it fitted was "My god that is like cheating".

4x1.3 shock pistons - I find the kit 5 hole pistons force you in to a region of the oil range where the car feels lazy. Tight-gits top trick .... just block up one hole in the kit pistons by gluing in a bit of old body clip ... been working for me for over a year
Some people prefer 2 hole pistons but again I think that forces you to hole sizes which makes the car feel "safe but lazy" which I don't like personally. I keep trying 2 hole pistons but always find that I loose lap time compared to 4x1.3s .... I've done a lot of testing to end up with that size but it might just be a personal thing.

Springs - The X-gear springs are fantastic quality, stick with them or use Associated springs. My preferred setup for certain conditions took me to a rear spring rate outside the X-gear range and I started off using Losi springs until I tried the same rate from AE and I could not believe the improvement in stability and confidence the AE springs gave. When I can I always run X-gear springs though.

RudeBits R1 wing - simply the best & very very strong too.


Hope that helps a little

[tumpier]

Cheers roger that's about blown me mind lol