Serpent 811-Be Build Thread - Page 11

VillageIdiot · #**201** 31-12-2011

Alu servo saver kit turned up today....

Removed origional steering system...

Assembled the new shiny one

...

Put it all back together took about 20 minutes, steering is really easy to work on.

Two comments about the steering that need to be made are there is slightly more slop, about 2mm max up and down movement, secondly the main part is you cannot refit the m3 nuts are they are not flush in the steering arm like the standard part is, if you fit the nut you obstruct the steering arm and it will not turn. basically just threadlocked the screw and all should be ok. this can be seen in second and final picture.

list of parts to upgrade to in the future.....

Alu front and rear shock towers.
Titanium turnbuckle kit.
Titanium shock mounts.
Blue front springs.
More spares such as driveshafts, pins, rear wishbones.

JonyNitro · #**202** 31-12-2011

you need to thread lock the steering stuffo,r it will come out

badger5 · #**203** 31-12-2011

You could try Durango low profile M3 locknuts (TD715001), I'm sure that they will fit.

VillageIdiot · #**204** 31-12-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by JonyNitro

you need to thread lock the steering stuffo,r it will come out

Yes they were thread locked, the nuts wont fit at all, its not the height its the width that stops you from using them.

VillageIdiot · #**205** 31-12-2011

Its hard to see from this pc but on full lock you have about 1mm gap from the ankerman plate. with the nut on it SEVERLY limits the turning.

Ill stick it on RC Tech see if anyone knows.

badger5 · #**206** 31-12-2011

Just thought I'd give an update as just got my shell back from eyeayen (Ian), and it sure is good. I still cannot beleive that no stickers were used and all was done with an airbrush, even the Arai logo. The pics don't even do it justice to be honest as the deep blue really comes to life in daylight.
I still have a bit of tidying up to do tomorrow with it, especially around the steering linkage.

VillageIdiot · #**207** 31-12-2011

take your time its a real pain in the ass. I used a craft knife

can I ask where the idea came from for the design?

lets see the shell off

VillageIdiot · #**208** 31-12-2011

alloy wing washers, wing posts and a spare wing mount set cheap here...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/s12151-ser...item3a6e30e5f3

eyeayen · #**209** 01-01-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by LIP

can I ask where the idea came from for the design?

I adapted an Arai crash helmet design to fit, hence the Arai logo on the shell.

JonyNitro · #**210** 01-01-2012

Nice paint job,any one have front ring and pinion ring bit crunchy rear is spot on?

badger5 · #**211** 01-01-2012

With my build I found that the rear was spot on with the amended shimming recommendations, still a bit tight but good as per the instructions. With the front I had to remove one of the shims fitted behind the pinion, then the front is still a notchy but ok. I actually found that the gear mesh would be tight on one half of the gearwheels revolution and then a bit more free as if the gearwheel wasn't quite true. But this will run in ok.

Just remember that the amended shimming is a recommendation, or starting point. Just set it up so that it is a bit tight, this is so that it can bed in properly and then should free up after about 1-2 hours driving when you should check it again.

Hope this helps.

JonyNitro · #**212** 01-01-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by badger5

With my build I found that the rear was spot on with the amended shimming recommendations, still a bit tight but good as per the instructions. With the front I had to remove one of the shims fitted behind the pinion, then the front is still a notchy but ok. I actually found that the gear mesh would be tight on one half of the gearwheels revolution and then a bit more free as if the gearwheel wasn't quite true. But this will run in ok.

Just remember that the amended shimming is a recommendation, or starting point. Just set it up so that it is a bit tight, this is so that it can bed in properly and then should free up after about 1-2 hours driving when you should check it again.

Hope this helps.

Yes I took one out felt better still crunchy, will put 0.1 when ran in

nick8155 · #**213** 05-01-2012

Just building my Cobra and all is really good.......Just a couple of questions for those who have already built them.

- The anti roll bar balls that go into the wishbone are very tight when the ally nut is tweaked up? Seems weird to me......
- The little m3 x 4mm grub is the rear hub.....whats this for?

Both probably obvious but not for me LOL

Very nice car so far.....by far in a different class to the Losi 8ights i have had before!!

JonyNitro · #**214** 05-01-2012

Get the rear Hub in your hand get the pin it's holds the bearing in supposedly you will see a smal hole in the hub goes in that

VillageIdiot · #**215** 05-01-2012

you'll have to back off 8th of a turn to allow the ball to move freely.

lets see pics of your build

badger5 · #**216** 05-01-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by nick8155

Just building my Cobra and all is really good.......Just a couple of questions for those who have already built them.

- The anti roll bar balls that go into the wishbone are very tight when the ally nut is tweaked up? Seems weird to me......
- The little m3 x 4mm grub is the rear hub.....whats this for?

Both probably obvious but not for me LOL

Very nice car so far.....by far in a different class to the Losi 8ights i have had before!!

Back the ally anti roll bar nuts off a smidge and all should be good.

nick8155 · #**217** 05-01-2012

Ive got a few pics to post up soon......If I tighten anything more than hand tight the balls are stiff, guess they will just bed in as they are used.......and that grub screw in the rear hub just seems to go straight through and doesnt go against anything......And as with your build LIP i could only use 2 of the 3 self tappers to hold the bearings inside the diff case.

There will be 4 of these at our club now......lets hope the drive as well as they look!!! We all had Losi 8ight E's (which look like plastic fantastic now!!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by LIP

you'll have to back off 8th of a turn to allow the ball to move freely.

lets see pics of your build

nick8155 · #**218** 05-01-2012

I followed the supplement sheet for the shimming.......Front feels a bit notchier than the rear so just gonna see how it goes........and re-shim as required once ive had a few packs through it.

Will replace all the plastic washers and nuts soon (not sure why they use these......but wanted to build the kit box stock and then upgrade after)

Shame my CC2200 won't fit, will have to use my trackstar 2560 to start then invest in rx8 & T8 1900 at a later point.

eyeayen · #**219** 05-01-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by nick8155

There will be 4 of these at our club now......lets hope the drive as well as they look!!! We all had Losi 8ight E's (which look like plastic fantastic now!!!

Good to see these are getting a nice little following, hopefully the 8th electric buggy scene is going to pick up and become much much bigger.

VillageIdiot · #**220** 06-01-2012

certainly is.... watch this space....