Tamiya Durga DB01 EP Buggy (A cheaper 501X?) - Page 53

TRF_AK · #**1041** 06-02-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by 25pie

apparently from an insider source tamiya has decresed worldwide sales by almost 30% since 2002 and is now having financial difficulities..... hopefully it is not the end for the mother of all RC!!

The market for R/C is changing rapidly over the last couple years and Tamiya is having to change the way they do business in order to keep up with the changing market. Tamiya will not be going out of business and that should be evident at the Nuremburg Toy Fair this weekend.

They recently sold their U.S. facility (with track and warehouse....and the track was amazing) and outsourced their warehousing to another company. Tamiya relocated to a leased office building rather than their own building as they had been in before.

Nothing is able to stay the same forever, and markets will always fluctuate. Tamiya is no different than anyone else and is making sure they are in the best position to stay around for a long time.

Vin · #**1042** 06-02-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spoolio

...A2, A4 and A5 parts for .....

Tamiya sells those parts as spares, but then Aluminium ones for their TRF cars.

I believe the A2 parts equal partnumber 50994 (http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=50994)

I couldn't find a partnumber for the spacers A4 and A5 because I don't know the thickness by hand. But if you measure them I'm sure you'll find them.

As I'm not 100% sure, Could anybody confirm this?

Spoolio · #**1043** 07-02-2008

Thanks Vin, I've ordered a skipful of 50994's and the alloy spacers as well #53539, and just to be sure I threw in some #53709's too. I notice front hinge pins are a bit thin on the ground. I am hoping I don't pop a front arm as I have no spare 0.2 shims for the front pins and I doubt I'd be able to find them out on the track.

25pie · #**1044** 07-02-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by TRF_AK

The market for R/C is changing rapidly over the last couple years and Tamiya is having to change the way they do business in order to keep up with the changing market. Tamiya will not be going out of business and that should be evident at the Nuremburg Toy Fair this weekend.

They recently sold their U.S. facility (with track and warehouse....and the track was amazing) and outsourced their warehousing to another company. Tamiya relocated to a leased office building rather than their own building as they had been in before.

Nothing is able to stay the same forever, and markets will always fluctuate. Tamiya is no different than anyone else and is making sure they are in the best position to stay around for a long time.

That maybe so but 30% loss in sales is still a hell of a lot money...and i really do not think that other companies (eg hpi) are not suffering that much

drinternat · #**1045** 07-02-2008

It would be great to have a Durga Handbook with the review on the first few pages then all the hop up parts with numbers and tips you guys have posted like shims and things. I think if anybody had the time and skills to put it together it would sell like hot cakes. Maybe Jimmy (or vicky) could go into the publishing business. From little acorns and all that!!!!!!

Toonz · #**1046** 07-02-2008

fit in the front and rear universal and i realise that the rear part of the bone is coming close to the edge of the diff joint when the buggy is lifted up even when i put in 6mm spacer into the rear shock . front is ok.

is this normal?

when i compare the rear UJ and the stock dogbone, the dogbone is about 3mm longer.

does that mean there is some measurement fault on the rear UJ?

or should i just remove it and retain the front UJ instead?

jimmy · #**1047** 07-02-2008

What shocks are you using?

Toonz · #**1048** 07-02-2008

im using DF03 shocks...

6mm internal spacer in the rear shocks and total shock length
is 10cm

jimmy · #**1049** 07-02-2008

the rear DF03 hop up shocks are just too long for this car - I assume your only real option is to add even more spacers?

Make sure the shocks aren't too long that the chassis won't touch the floor though.

Toonz · #**1050** 07-02-2008

the chassis is able to touch the floor, both front and rear.

in that case i think more spacers is the way to go...

what is your shock length jimmy? the rear.

A.J. Gee · #**1051** 07-02-2008

Wow, did any of you see the new body set for the DB-01? I just went on the tamiya USA web site and saw it. Its called the Baldre. It looks pretty phony and kiddish IMO. If you guys havent seen it, go check it out and let me know what you think.

Toonz · #**1052** 07-02-2008

what is the meaning of baldre?????????????????

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=51338

jimmy · #**1053** 07-02-2008

Granted it looks a bit toy like there - but with a proper paint job and stickers it might look nice??

Vin · #**1054** 07-02-2008

Well to be honest I really didn't like the Durga at first sight and I was hoping Tamiya would release a new body soon..

Now with the Baldre I'm not sure if it's an improvent. It looks kinda Nikko'sh indeed. Maybe with clear windows and a 'Jimmy' paintjob it would look nice though. But on box art is it even worse than the Durga.

dflament · #**1055** 07-02-2008

we need a Team Azarashi body for the durga

budgio · #**1056** 07-02-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Toonz

what is the meaning of baldre?????????????????

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=51338

Baldre is a city in Albania

A.J. Gee · #**1057** 07-02-2008

The window area of the Baldre reminds me of the Dark Impact body shell.

bender · #**1058** 07-02-2008

Looks a bit like a HB D4 body to me

skydive130 · #**1059** 07-02-2008

Hi Guys! Have recently bought a Durga through Ebay and got it and all the "bling" I have added mostly from Hong Kong and saved a packet in the process!

Hop-Up's so far include graphite front/rear towers, Alu oil Shocks, Front one way, slipper clutch, belt tensioner, alu stearing linkage and my fave Futaba 3Gr FAAST 2.4ghz radio!

Anyway, my one concern is the rear diff? I swear blind I have assembled it correctly, but I get little or no traction in reverse and the diff seems to slip before it gets traction in forward. Do I need to tighten the hex screw as tight as possible or is this how its meant to be? Basically, I can put the car on the stand, hold the wheels and the motor and belts will still turn? Hope I have explained my issue? any responce will be of great help. The front one-way seems fine, just the problem with the kit supplied rear diff? is there a better choice of diff out there? will the 501x fit?

ps. lots more "bling" on route from HK, just wish there were more up-grades to add i.e carbon chassis, maybe in the future!

Mutant · #**1060** 08-02-2008

Hi,
I believe the 501x outdrives will fit but they are not necessary. I super glued the plastic ring holders to the outdrives and the diff ring to the plastic ring holders. I did not sand the rings like some people do, just degreased them. i tend to replace steel diff balls with ceramic ones, i feel they grip better. I would not tighten it too much, just make sure that the slipper does the slipping and not the rear diff, if left to slip with loads of power it will soon melt.

Cheers