CAT SX SETUPS

[MHeadling]

Just one quick question, what length are the team tending to run the Akerman link at??

Is it an essential mod to get the bulk heads drilled and the arms raised on the rear? Is there any good tips to getting the holes drilled accuratley in the bulk head?

[Mossy]

Originally Posted by Swiss

Actually thinking about this further. If you keep your shocks exactly the same as with the pin in the normal position and raise the pint. The rear of the car will sit slightly higher. You will then have to wind down the shock collars to get the w/bones level at the rear, which will mean the front of the car will be nose high, menaing the front will have to be lowered too?

On ride height i dont tend to measure to be honest, just set it so the car looks level around. I understand what your saying tho.

As for the length og the ackerman link, ill check tomorrow.

Si

[bigred5765]

cant remember who told us, but im sure kit is 8mm and was told to run it 9mm,

[Swiss]

Originally Posted by Mossy

On ride height i dont tend to measure to be honest, just set it so the car looks level around. I understand what your saying tho.

As for the length og the ackerman link, ill check tomorrow.

Si

So is it w/bones level? D/shafts level... Or if not measured that way, maybe an actual ride height as in mm?

Many thanks

Paul

[MattW]

To be honest, for me, ride height tended to be a bit of an "that looks about right" kind of measurement - generally being wishbones around level and adjusted to suit. As for ackermann, I can't remember what I usually ran, when I was running the early car, I had that link quite wide. As time went on, I harrowed it up a fair amount - I have a feeling I ran 4mm wider than std, but can't be 100% sure.

[mw02veg]

Have not a clue as to the distance but on Grants car the steering arms are parallel.

Mike

[Dgomez242@comcast.net]

I run my cat at 20mm ride height front and rear. Comes out close to level driveshafts rear front slightly above level. car looks flat when looking from the side.

I run my ackerman at 9mm.

[mikeyscott]

Are people planning on running one way lay shaft or one way diff at Petit?

I'm thinking one way lay shaft.

[mikeyscott]

How easy do peoples Cat's deck out from say two / three feet. Gone for

27.5W in the rear
Losi shocks with blue pistons
Pink springs


32.5W in the front
Losi shocks with orange pistons
green springs

Just need to drill some more holes on the rear of the wishbones.

May do what a friend has done and shave the bumpers down for more clearance.

I have gone for wishbones level, but I think it's too low / soft for Titchfield. Not sure, just trying to learn things more.

[mikeyscott]

How much extra weight are people running in their Cat SXs?

[Mossy]

None

[mikeyscott]

Originally Posted by Mossy

None

Ok thanks, just mully extra weight for Petit and then how that affects oil, shock, spring choices etc.

[MHeadling]

I have a 105g on the bottom of the chassis, I quite like it like this! But I will try it in practice and see how it goes, most of the lads in the south seem to run with the lead, Grant,Matt,Niggs etc

[SteveB]

Originally Posted by Mossy

None

Hi Simon,

Being an established SX driver, could you confirm the main benefit of running the with wishbones reversed on rear? Also with the impact of running the shocks on rear of the wishbone? looking in terms of what impact does this have on steering on and off power (in what position). Just wanting an A class driver to confirm a few things before Petit,

Thanks Steve

[t.o. rob]

I HAVE A QUESTION. WHEN RUNNING ON A HIGH TRACTION TRACK, IN THE CORNERS WHEN MASONITE BOARDS ARE LAID OUT TO SIMULATE ICE, HAS ANYBODY HAD ANY LUCK WITH DIFFERENT COMPOUNDS? LIKE BLUE FRONT OR YELLOW FRONT AND VICE VERSA? ARE THERE ANY ADVANTAGES IN RUNNING DIFFERENT COMPOUNDS IN THE FRONT OR THE REAR?

I HAVE BEEN NOTICING THE REAR OF MY CAR DRIFTING A LITTLE TOO MUCH.

I WILL APPRECIATE ANY INPUT TO HELP ME CORRECT THIS ISSUE.

[Swiss]

Has anyone else tried the rear gearbox mod? I have been trying it over the last couple of weeks on wet astro, and found you don't get enough forward traction....

Originally Posted by Mossy

Bury Metro Indoors Tq Setup

Front -

Track Washers - 1mm front and back
Roll Bar - No
Shock Position Mount - Middle
Shock Position Wishbone - Middle
Front Rake - 10 Degrees
Washers - 0mm
Front Link Bracket - 38.5mm
Washers on Hub - 0
Alloy 7.5 degree front Yokes.

Rear -
Wheel Base - Short
Toe In - 3mm Rear, .5mm front = 3.25 degrees
Anti Squat Washers - 0mm Rear, 3.5mm Front (rear hole 4mm higher on rear gearbox housing than standard)
Rear Link Bracket - 38.5mm
Washers - 3mm
Shock Position Mount - Middle
Shock Position Wishbone - Inside
Hub Postion - Middle
Roll Bar - No


Shocks

Front -
35wt on 3 Holes Drilled 55s
Schumacher Old Grey Springs
Diaphragm - Centre cut out and removed
Ride Height - Wishbones level

Rear -
30wt on 2 Holes Drilled 55s
Schumacher Old Red Springs
Diaphragm - Centre cut out and removed
Ride Height - Wishbones level

Transmission-
Rear Diff Height - Low
Front Diff Height - Low
Layshaft Pulley - Pin Through
Front Drive - One Way
Gearing - 81 x 22 on Speed Passion 5.5
Internal Ratio - 33 Tooth Pulley

Tyres
Yellow Mini Pin all round, Schumacher Tubby Green Inserts Rear, Schumacher Green Front

Si

[Mossy]

Sorry for the late reply to some of the questions!

Steve- running the shocks at the back in my opinion makes the car more stable. i found that it adds more grip to the back end and handles really bumpy section better than the standard shocks on the front of the wishbones. I know alot of the team guys run this, and when Ive tried DC's car set like this it has felt safer. I dont run it at the mo due to firstly having the big bores, but when I had the standard shocks on the car felt too safe for me, I couldnt go quick enough.

Paul - Not struggled with traction using the rear hinge pin mod at all in the wet. Still running the same geometry as the setup above, so you could perhaps but some more toe in on, or alter the link on the hub if your strugglin come out of corners. Grant has ran this mod all winter too so might be worth askin him if he has adjusted anything. We are pretty opposite in setups at the mo.

Rob - never tend to mix compounds, always tends to unbalance the car whenever i have done it in the past. I'd stick to setup changes instead.

[t.o. rob]

Hi Simon, thanks for the reply. I did a few different set up changes, but this past Sunday, at a trophy race, I seen some guys from Team Tamiya that were doing killer lap times. Their trick for the ice was yellow compound all the way around, front tires almost bald, and Corally tyre traction. The whole front tire gets soaked good, and rear tire half from the inside. The results were great, and those guys were doing high 13 second laps, at a track that the average was in the mid 14's.

Now I just have to get the right shock and gear ratio and with more practice, my skill level will improve, and try to keep up with those guys.

Thanks

[bert digler]

Originally Posted by Mark Headling

I have a 105g on the bottom of the chassis, I quite like it like this! But I will try it in practice and see how it goes, most of the lads in the south seem to run with the lead, Grant,Matt,Niggs etc

agreed makes the car more stable all round i run 130gram

[Jonesy]

I'm running around 108g underneath too. It all depends on the jumps on the track for me with the car. I struggle on 'big' jumps, such as the quads at last years Euros with the weight in but at Bury tomorrow it will make the car so much more stable