Tamiya Durga DB01 EP Buggy (A cheaper 501X?)

[dimblum]

Originally Posted by Spoolio

I think you've come onto the post a bit late dimblum, or perhaps I was a bit non-specific. I've already got a 3Racing mount and true it is very nice, especially for the price I paid from Stella back in January. The "but" is - as I learnt from DCM's post a page back - you can't bolt the Tamiya plate type heatsink to it (when using the carbon chassis). It's only got one hole missing and I suppose if I had the tools to drill and tap it I could but I don't so I can't .

Thanks for the update Spoolio. I wasn't aware of the difference between the 3Racing and Tamiya Motor Mount when it comes to the Carbon chassis.

Maybe you can help with another question I had about the Carbon chassis. I noticed that it simulates other 4WD chassis by having open slots under the battery mount and the motor. Is this design for better cooling (hence the optional Motor Heat sink plate sold by Tamiya)? I'm actually more fond of the sealed chassis design to protect the battery on off-road tracks. I never had a problem with batteries heating up during runs, so I never figured out why it's exposed underneath.

[ruf]

It allows the batteries to sit lower in order to lower the CG. If you're running lipo, the slots are not beneficial.

[Spoolio]

Cracked it, didn't know you could squeeze that much out of a tube when you are desperate .

[fabolousRC]

Originally Posted by ruf

JConcepts Rulux wheels for B44. I've been trying to adapt them to fit so I can run common wheels and tires with the XX-4, but no avail so far. Need to thin down the rear drive pins. I can't find any Tamiya front hexes in stock, so I can't tell if the fronts will work or not. The B44 wheels have deeper hex area. I may just run Tamiya wheels and be done with it. I'd like to keep the car TCS legal which also means building up a set of Tamiya turnbuckles later on for official races if the tech gets that serious.

I actually REALLY like the blasted/cast aluminum finish on the motor mount. Tamiya has a blue one and it's significantly lighter, but I don't think we need to lose weight in this car with the lipo.

I don't have a problem running my Rulux with stock front Durga hex...

[jimmy]

I tried them, just to see. They rubbed on the hubs and caused binding - are you running any washers to space the wheels out?

I run the B44 hex on my durga.

[sim]

Some interesting stuff listed for display at next month's Tokyo Hobby Show.

http://www.tamiya.com/english/hobbyshow/THS08/index.htm

For DB-01, looks like longer rear universals.

[Spr0k3t]

Interesting... possibly a solid rear ax?

[DCM]

I wouldn't say longer, I would say UJ and not CVD, it will help square the car up under power, tuning aide type item.

[Spoolio]

Originally Posted by DCM

I wouldn't say longer, I would say UJ and not CVD, it will help square the car up under power, tuning aide type item.

Hmmm, to be honest I'd like them to do some CVDs or UJ shafts that are a tad longer so the bloody things wouldn't fall out of the outdrives. Still, I can't see it personally. What beats me is why they can't just make a "Hop-Up" revised rear tower that mounts the TRF shocks just a little bit higher thus allowing us to use them without limiters and get max travel droop without popping the CVDs.

[DCM]

yes, I agree there though, if enough of us wants them, why not ask Atomic Carbon for front and rear towers?

[Spoolio]

I wonder how many of us would want, and be willing to pay for them? I posted just this suggestion a page or so back. I have enough used spares to build up a chassis with rear end to send as a pattern if we could get enough interest to ask Atomic. I'll enquire what quantity we'd need for it to be viable / cost etc.

[fabolousRC]

Originally Posted by jimmy

I tried them, just to see. They rubbed on the hubs and caused binding - are you running any washers to space the wheels out?

I run the B44 hex on my durga.

Just normal washers that was instructed by the kit manual.

Other than that, bone stock and no rubbing

Although I see that once I removed it, the tamiya hex pretty much ate one of my front wheel (it's my fault though, one of my front camber is off)

[jimmy]

Do you have any photos of exactly how you got these wheels to fit? just tried again on a new durga and same - they simply don't even spin, never mind work - they are clamped so hard against the hub.
Either I have different rulux wheels to you, or you must have some non-standard front hex spacing? The durga doesn't use any washers up front in the manual

[fabolousRC]

Originally Posted by jimmy

Do you have any photos of exactly how you got these wheels to fit? just tried again on a new durga and same - they simply don't even spin, never mind work - they are clamped so hard against the hub.
Either I have different rulux wheels to you, or you must have some non-standard front hex spacing? The durga doesn't use any washers up front in the manual

I will when I get a chance.

I had a hard days running the durga today ended up breaking the rear shock tower. I just replaced my DX3.0 with my KO EX-1 Mars with Spektrum Module and now I have to relearn how to drive again. Just by replacing the radio, I found all of sudden that:
1. I have SUPER FAST steering from my Futaba S9402
2. Superior linear acceleration from my LRP Sphere TC ESC

and I'm scratching my head thinking (was the DX3.0 transmitter that bad?)

All I know is that I should have driven my ZX-5 RTR, change the steering servo to Z590M and change the motor to Trinity Stock CO27 with 20/78 gearing. That was fun!!! (at the practice only *bummer*).

I just picked up a used Db01 with 3 Racing shocks and some other options for $100 so I think I'll be moving my electronics to that and see what happens because I just could not get my Durga run right

[Spr0k3t]

The shocks will make a huge difference in the stability of the driving. One of the problems with the stock rear shock towers is the travel is just too long on the shaft. Most buggy setups have a shaft travel that bottoms out the chassis. Instead the DB01 shocks hit their limits prior to a chassis slap... this puts all of the travel force of the stock shocks directly on the shock tower. Changing the stock shocks out for almost anything is well worth it. I really like the Tamiya Aeration shocks... running reds back and yellows front.

[sosidge]

Originally Posted by fabolousRC

I will when I get a chance.

I had a hard days running the durga today ended up breaking the rear shock tower. I just replaced my DX3.0 with my KO EX-1 Mars with Spektrum Module and now I have to relearn how to drive again. Just by replacing the radio, I found all of sudden that:
1. I have SUPER FAST steering from my Futaba S9402
2. Superior linear acceleration from my LRP Sphere TC ESC

and I'm scratching my head thinking (was the DX3.0 transmitter that bad?)

All I know is that I should have driven my ZX-5 RTR, change the steering servo to Z590M and change the motor to Trinity Stock CO27 with 20/78 gearing. That was fun!!! (at the practice only *bummer*).

I just picked up a used Db01 with 3 Racing shocks and some other options for $100 so I think I'll be moving my electronics to that and see what happens because I just could not get my Durga run right

Check your radio settings, you may have the endpoints wrong which is causing very quick responses. I doubt the DX3.0 is noticeably worse than the KO system.

[fabolousRC]

Originally Posted by sosidge

Check your radio settings, you may have the endpoints wrong which is causing very quick responses. I doubt the DX3.0 is noticeably worse than the KO system.

Perhaps.

But you have to remember that the KO has more adjustments compared to DX3.0 and the radio was intended to be a "budget" system with three channels not a professional system like the Mars. I have not touch the Mars for the past two and a half years so the setting might be a little different now. I might revert all the radio setting back to default and start a new now that I have a spare chassis that I am picking up later today. Supposedly the chassis is setup better than mine and comes with 3Racing shocks so I will play around with it when I can. My current chassis just needed to be rebuilt period lol.

I'm thinking of buying a TRF Damper kit for 501X from rcmodel.hk in the near future with a possibility of converting my original chassis with the carbon chassis (and use the parts as a spare to my newer DB01; my current one is kinda abused lol) creating a DB01R/MS

Wish me luck

[SidewaysLS4]

Originally Posted by fabolousRC

now I have to relearn how to drive again

LOL. Amazing how that happens, eh? Similar experience here this week with going to a Futaba 9452 servo from a Futaba 3004.

[ruf]

Originally Posted by ruf

Hi guys. I think I figured out the rear shock tower issue. It is NOT that the wing is mounted in contact with it (I don't think lexan can transmit enough force to break that part), but I think it's a shock issue. As referenced in another thread, the DB01 has a lower rear shock tower than the 501X. This is why we are having such issues with the rear ride height using the TRF springs, limiters, etc... I've got 6mm of limiters in my rear shocks just to get a reasonable amount of down travel.

The problem is that the rear wheels lack uptravel due to the lower position of the shock tower, and thus the shock body. The chassis barely even bottoms out before the shocks have reached full compression, and that's with a lot of tire squish. Most every offroad car I've seen allows the chassis to bottom out and then another 1/2" or 10mm or so further uptravel. We don't always land jumps square. If you land it a little crooked, all of the force of the landing will be transmitted into the shock tower when one of the shock bottoms out prematurely. Snap.

I've only got the TRF dampers, so I don't know if this also applies with the kit shocks. Can someone else with kit shocks verify? I'm trying to figure out a work around. I'd hate to have to use shock position to get it done. Ideally there is a shorter shock body available.

WRONG... I finally finished my DB01 build and the issue with the uptravel is due to the rear arms hitting the chassis in the short wheelbase setting as mentioned before. A little dremel work and everything feels fine. Just needs stiffer springs...

[jimmy]

yeap its a quick and easy enough job but if you don't do it and try to run short wheelbase you'll get a rather poorly handling car landing from jumps and the like.