Tamiya Durga DB01 EP Buggy (A cheaper 501X?)

[Migs]

Hey anyone tried the 416 diff screw and nut?

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-trf...4-p-25869.html

i see its 3mm shorter than the db01 diff screw but it has a nice grove in the top which might allow diff adjustments to be made without unclipping the turnbuckle, assuming u can get it to thread into the nut to begin with

Raced the car again today, went awesome again, i did a run on the dual block tyres, C compound front and rear, track conditions weren't ideal as the track was a bit dusty/blown out, but the fronts were excellent, they gave a really good feeling in the front end, not overly darty at high speed and gave good low speed steering also. Rears were good too, but the dusty conditions didnt help, and it was a bit unstable in the rear late in the corner. hopefully i'll get to try is on a more grippy surface tomorrow

[94eg!]

Originally Posted by Migs

Hey anyone tried the 416 diff screw and nut?

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-trf...4-p-25869.html

i see its 3mm shorter than the db01 diff screw but it has a nice grove in the top which might allow diff adjustments to be made without unclipping the turnbuckle, assuming u can get it to thread into the nut to begin with

Now how on earth would you get to that diff screw to adjust it? If the screw head is not surrounded by the outdrive bearing, you would have to drill a hole straight through your outdrive, and your gearbox. No thanks!

[fabolousRC]

Originally Posted by Fat Corgi

I think I need to reduce the ratio on my DB-01, and am concerned about find a ratio that works. Currently running a Associated 87T with a 18T pinion powered by a MM 6900 on 2s, and the motor's getting hot at the end of the run. The tyres (Pro-Line Dirt Hawgs) are ballooning severely leaving me with very little traction and control once the car gets up to top speed. The stock 91T spur I have is slightly off-centre and wobbles. Should I just by another one and hope that it is centred?
In the stock motor mount the smallest pinion I can mount before the gear-meshing is off is about 17T with the 87T spur in place. With the 91T spur I might be able to get a 14 or 15T in there.
Any help would be appreciated, especially if you've been in this position before.
Thanks in advance.
FC

Use the shims to reduce the wobble. If the current one is out of true, a fresh new spur will do the job fine.

[fabolousRC]

Originally Posted by Migs

Hey anyone tried the 416 diff screw and nut?

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-trf...4-p-25869.html

i see its 3mm shorter than the db01 diff screw but it has a nice grove in the top which might allow diff adjustments to be made without unclipping the turnbuckle, assuming u can get it to thread into the nut to begin with

Raced the car again today, went awesome again, i did a run on the dual block tyres, C compound front and rear, track conditions weren't ideal as the track was a bit dusty/blown out, but the fronts were excellent, they gave a really good feeling in the front end, not overly darty at high speed and gave good low speed steering also. Rears were good too, but the dusty conditions didnt help, and it was a bit unstable in the rear late in the corner. hopefully i'll get to try is on a more grippy surface tomorrow

I was gonna recommend to loosen the slipper a bit but then I read somewhere that you are running direct drive. Oh well. Maybe you can get a softer compound rear tires or softer springs to gain that traction back?

[Migs]

Originally Posted by 94eg!

Now how on earth would you get to that diff screw to adjust it? If the screw head is not surrounded by the outdrive bearing, you would have to drill a hole straight through your outdrive, and your gearbox. No thanks!

No worries, i'd say ur right, though the head on that screw is quite tall, my hope was that it would stick up like a losi diff screw and allow an allen wrench to be placed into the outdrive and screw locking it and allowing a diff adjustment, it appears its not going to work like that, and i agree, drilling holes in to the outdrive to acheive that isnt optimal

[Migs]

Originally Posted by fabolousRC

I was gonna recommend to loosen the slipper a bit but then I read somewhere that you are running direct drive. Oh well. Maybe you can get a softer compound rear tires or softer springs to gain that traction back?

Yeah good advice, in the end rather than chasing suspension settings i went to the losi bigshot tyre which provided much better grip on the surface, those tamiya tires are pretty good, certainly on the front i think they have a good tire, but the rear, they may need to look to go a grade or two softer on the compound, even though they are the competition compound, the rubber is still harder than a losi silver, which would be fine for grippy clay type tracks, but softer would help in the less grippy track conditions

[fb5b]

Hey guys picking up a 8.5 Brushless on the cheap for this thing (Bone stock Durga) what gearing would I need (I have a 17 and a 26) and run Life 6.6v packs.

Also do I need to put in a slipper if I am just running up and down the street>? Plan to get one in a few weeks but funds are tight this month.

[ralphee]

Having sold my Durga a while back, very sad i did so too now, she was a beaut....ive been looking at getting another lol. Problem was i want the R spec, and bodies are a pain to get hold of...till now.

Check out that well known auction site guys.....i just bought one by Team Bluegroove this AM....its a repro, but thank god as there like rocking horse poop.

lee

[peetbee]

I could only see a Durga shell not a Baldre

[dalla-db01R]

Originally Posted by ralphee

Having sold my Durga a while back, very sad i did so too now, she was a beaut....ive been looking at getting another lol. Problem was i want the R spec, and bodies are a pain to get hold of...till now.

Check out that well known auction site guys.....i just bought one by Team Bluegroove this AM....its a repro, but thank god as there like rocking horse poop.

lee

I recently bought a Baldre body for my DB-01R in the Tamiya Plamodel factory shop in Tokyo, they, strangely enough, seemed to have plenty of them.

[Migs]

rc mart had baldre bodies in stock a few weeks ago so i ordered one, they are around, hopefully the supply levels will settle down

[fb5b]

Originally Posted by fb5b

Hey guys picking up a 8.5 Brushless on the cheap for this thing (Bone stock Durga) what gearing would I need (I have a 17 and a 26) and run Life 6.6v packs.

Well got no response to this (problem with large threads is you have multiple conversations going) and did an order from Stella for a slipper and 3 racing metal outdrives for the rear. Geared 17/91 ran this last night, pretty quick but not insane, motor temps were reasonable considering it was still 33 degrees C outside at 7pm. Would still appreciate some input, diffs are set up nice, fairly loose but no slippage (after 3 yrs of racing a TA05 you become a bit of a guru at these things)

[crusader]

Originally Posted by fb5b

Well got no response to this (problem with large threads is you have multiple conversations going) and did an order from Stella for a slipper and 3 racing metal outdrives for the rear. Geared 17/91 ran this last night, pretty quick but not insane, motor temps were reasonable considering it was still 33 degrees C outside at 7pm. Would still appreciate some input, diffs are set up nice, fairly loose but no slippage (after 3 yrs of racing a TA05 you become a bit of a guru at these things)

Well, i believe you will be fairly safe up to a 19T pinion. Raced mine last summer in Greece(34 Celcius/5 minute runs). EzRun 60A-8.5T(4200kv) motor and it help fine although the temps where higher that normal. Does your ESC have a fan attached? Mine did.
In a few days i will race my brand new Novak Havoc 3s-8.5T(5000kv) system.

The only thing that still worries me are the diffs, especially the rear one.
I managed to melt one, before i realized what 'tight enough' means. But,
you are already a guru on this matter. Do you have any suggestions? Front diffs must be tighter than the rear. How does that translate to tightening(backing up) the diff screw?

[i4n]

Originally Posted by Migs

rc mart had baldre bodies in stock a few weeks ago so i ordered one, they are around, hopefully the supply levels will settle down

I just had a reply back from Hobby Co. about Baldre bodies and no-one having them in stock in the UK.

Apparently *cough* they're due into the UK in late April or early May so hopefully they'll be some about soon.

[simoncrabb]

Oh! I heard a rumour the Baldre bodies were discontinued!

[Fat Corgi]

The truth is they have a small shipment of Baldre bodies due in at the end of April. They are all pre-sold bar one. So get on to your local Hobby shop now. I didn't tell you.

[Carno]

Had my first runtime in a few months time yesterday. It went around reasonable for about 1½ lap until i made it do about 8 flips on a landing and i broke of the whole rear shocktower from the diff cover.
The part where the screws go in on the diff cover broke clean off.

Guessing the lower temps (about 6 or 7°C) and the less flexible AC shocktowers don't mix to well with bad crashes.

The change from 9,5T eraser with AI digitial and nimh to 6,5T with SXX TC spec and LiPos is huge though.
Have to learn how to drive it all over again.

[fb5b]

Well the bits arrived from Stella so redid the back diff with the alloy outdrives and installed the slipper, bedded the rear diff in and set it a bit tighter than the front (personal preference) but no slippage so all good.

Reset the end points on the Venom 120A esc and that made a difference to top end (hadn't yet properly calibrated it to my radio since I bought it 2nd hand) so will give it a few runs see how it goes. Picked up a spare spur and front arms just in case...

[Carno]

@attachment: Suspension is a bit loose in the back

[peetbee]

I've got the carbon belt covers on mine, hopefully a bit stronger and won't let that happen again!
Part no 54033