DB01 Help

[Spoolio]

Just installed my centre one way. For some reason the inner slipper plate is now merrily rubbing on the countersunk screw that holds the 950 bearing on the belt anti-skip doodah (I refuse to call them tensioners 'cos they aren't). Anybody else had this problem? I've reassembled it all 3 times and tried multiple shim combinations but it's still rubbing. If I go back to the standard pulleys its all fine but I cannot see why as. The one way pulley is actually a bit wider which should push the spur AWAY from the centre line of the chassis and thus away from the offending screw, but it ain't happening.

Also, are there any suggestions for battery posts with a slightly longer thread? I would ideally like to run my Trakpower 4900 lipo pack but it won't fit unless I wind the posts out to beyond what I feel is a safe amount.

[DCM]

use the carbon strap apparently, from the TC....

Take a pic of the problem dude....

[jimmy]

like DCM says, the carbon ta05 strap is the thing you need. for the 4900mah pack you can just use it as-is, for the thinner 3200mah pack you can put some sticky back foam on it to hold the cells firmly in place - and if you have both like I do then you just flip the strap over! bargain.

[ruf]

I just received the limited edition blue texalium TA05 strap and it is SWEET... I promise, I'm really not that much of a bling-whore, but I've kinda let loose on this little project. I was planning on using o-rings under the body clips to secure Orion 3800's. I might relieve the chassis a little bit to help the battery sit better. It kind of wobbles and won't find a good center spot to seat into.

[Spoolio]

Hey everyone, thanks for the advice. Now an admission to you all - except my missus who's know for years - I am stoopid. As soon as I saw DCM's post last night (sorry I didn't respond, I was in shutdown mode) it triggered something in whats left of my brain. Went out to the spares stash this morning and had a dig through the pile of Tamiya T/C stuff I've not touched for ages and there, still in its packet is a TA05 carbon battery strap . Result.

Now I just need to sort the spur out but that'll have to wait till next week now as got no time to do it for a few days.

[Spoolio]

Sorted the spur clearance with some judicious shimming, there are now 5 0.2 shims on the layshaft in total and it now clears the obstruction, I'm just worried what thermal expansion will do to it, guess I'll have to suck it and see.

The TA05 battery strap DOESN'T work with a Trakpower cell as regardless of which way round it goes, the strap half covers one of the terminals, so I may have to Dremel it or stick to my Core 3250 lipo .

[jimmy]

Not sure what ta05 strap you have - do you have a photo?


this is the one I use

[gargadud]

I am using this one with the TrakPower 4800 saddle pack and it works fine without covering the terminals. I just had to build 2 kind of extensions for the blue stuff to make it higher.

[Spoolio]

Here we go, I'm using the same strap as you Jimmy. Photos are:

Strap
Trakpower 4900 terminals to front of car - not good
Trakpower 4900 terminals to rear of car - better but not ideal
Rear height
Front height
Slipper assembly clearance (the rubbing on the plate is from the belt, and not from rubbing on the bearing screw)

BTW, how tight should the belts be exactly? I've put one more notch on the front one as the kit recommendation felt a bit too loose. It now has about 3mm deflection in the centre of the top run.

[ruf]

It looks like you're still using the DB01 battery mount posts. You might want convert over to the TA05 versions like in the pic Jimmy posted. They should give you enough height to mount your battery of choice.

edit: wrong on the battery posts.

[Spoolio]

Originally Posted by ruf

It looks like you're still using the DB01 battery mount posts. You should convert over to the TA05 versions like in the pic Jimmy posted. They should give you enough height to mount your battery of choice.

Nope, the TA05 ones that are in the battery strap pack are exactly the same dimensions as the stock items - but they do look better and as I am a bling-whore I will change them anyway.

[Spr0k3t]

Hey Spoolio... the other thing you may have overlooked in the build, there are two spacers on the A parts tree that go in the battery post mounts. That will give you enough room to lock down the that lovely gold brick of yours.

[Spoolio]

Originally Posted by Spr0k3t

Hey Spoolio... the other thing you may have overlooked in the build, there are two spacers on the A parts tree that go in the battery post mounts.

Feck!!!!!!!!!! I hate Tamiya's sometimes, there is so much going on on one assembly step I always, always leave something out . And to think I was patting myself on the back last year for not missing that "turn over" arrow on the diff build like loads of others on here did. Ho hum.

[jimmy]

I have my cells in like photo 3- the corally will sit against the strap but it was in no way hard, I just nudged the cells over and plugged in. the weight of the lipo and heavy crashes don't concern me at all - the plug shouldn't have any problems. it's not 'perfect' but to be honest it's not far off - many cars have more problems fitting cells than the Durga does.

[ruf]

Glad you got it sorted out. Sorry for the false lead on the battery posts.

[Spr0k3t]

Originally Posted by Spoolio

Feck!!!!!!!!!! I hate Tamiya's sometimes, there is so much going on on one assembly step I always, always leave something out . And to think I was patting myself on the back last year for not missing that "turn over" arrow on the diff build like loads of others on here did. Ho hum.

Lol! Don't feel bad man... you're not the first as I did the same thing. However, like you, I didn't miss that "turn over" bit either. The one thing I love about the Tamiya kits: The challenge in getting it right the first time through.

[fabolousRC]

Originally Posted by gargadud

I am using this one with the TrakPower 4800 saddle pack and it works fine without covering the terminals. I just had to build 2 kind of extensions for the blue stuff to make it higher.

I think you have to read what you write before telling him that he is wrong

[gargadud]

Ooooooooooooooops

Should be linked to my poor english command

[Spoolio]

Sorted the strap by filing a notch out, its not "factory" but it looks OK.

Now, more questions!

I have some lovely Nortech whities to replace the stock red o-rings on the shocks but they seem thinner than the Tamiya ones, do I replace one Tamiya ring for 2 Nortech ones?

Also, is anyone coming to Worksop with a Durga? What shock oils are suggested? I was running AE 35wt all round before with AE black springs on the rear and silvers on the front.

I've put the rear shocks on the top inner hole - no idea what effect it'll have but at least the CVD's don't fall out anymore. While I've got the shocks in bits though I could add more limiters if this would be a better idea. As Capt Picard used to say in staff meetings "Options?".

[jimmy]

replace the o-rings one for one - they will swell a little I'm told, I've certainly had no problems running them in the TRF shocks.

I might bring my Durga but I'm not planning on running it. I think I got 2nd in the B last year with the Durga so it's as good as anything (actually- if you ask anyone, it was the best car over the bumps since it was the only car at the meeting able to go over them flat out)

I used AE blue front and silver rear springs - black rear is very soft afaik. I used 35wt smallest hole standard (not machined) TRF piston front and 30wt largest hole standard trf piston rear.
rear shocks I usually used 2 o-rings inside to limit droop - but tuning the rear droop a little helped balanced the car out.

if you want to shorten the shocks, use the short shock ends from the durga kit build that weren't used on the original shocks already. I don't use CVD's personally.