501X setup discussion - Page 13

josh_smaxx · #**241** 05-06-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by B44&501xRacerEX

Now that would be crappy right there, Id be like driving my TXT-1

No it wouldnt....

mole2k · #**242** 05-06-2008

If the track was really fast and flowing and had no need for brakes then a front and rear one way would give you a brushless style no friction off-throttle.

DaveG28 · #**243** 05-06-2008

Just noticed while finding the part number for the centre one way (no Bmag, it won't work in the rear, or front) that there is a 12 degree castor block available. Am I right in thinking the standard ones are 10 degree??

In terms of affect on handling, good old Wiki reckons more castor = more stability, and an increase of camber when on lock, which I guess might mean less responsive turn in, but maybe more grip mid turn?? If I am talking bollocks though can someone correct me!!

bender · #**244** 06-06-2008

I have always found it to be the complete opposite ie:

More caster = more turn-in (especially at high speeds), less on-power steering (so more stability out of corners), and less low-speed steering.

sosidge · #**245** 06-06-2008

The description you gave DaveG28 is technically correct, however depending on your driving style you may find that what bender has said is true too. Because caster can affect a fair few other things in the geometry you don't always get a textbook handling effect, that is why there is no substitute or testing.

Personally speaking, in the on-road cars I have always found that less caster gives sharper turn-in and better mid corner rotation while more caster is better on-power. However too little caster on-road just removes grip full-stop. I haven't really done enough testing off-road with it, but more caster does seem smoother.

Northy · #**246** 06-06-2008

And it also depends if you have a diff or a 1 way in the front....

G

B44&501xRacerEX · #**247** 06-06-2008

My 501x parts came in at golfland today:
501x Aluminum Steering Bridge 21 dollars
Tungsten diff balls 41 dollars
91 tooth Spur gear 4 dollars

MotoRev · #**248** 06-11-2008

I raced my 501x for the first time last weekend and struggled over the big jumps with the car nose diving all the time

obviously leading to lack of confidence when you probably most need it...

It was complete build/set up as kit (springs/oil etc) so was a pretty sluggish all round, but having tried different approaches and different throttle/brake combos never really got anywhere. I thought it would be alot more balanced no?

I also had IB42's in the back as opposed to the lighter Lipo's but it still nose dived like mad??

Any idea's

sosidge · #**249** 06-11-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by MotoRev

I raced my 501x for the first time last weekend and struggled over the big jumps with the car nose diving all the time

obviously leading to lack of confidence when you probably most need it...

It was complete build/set up as kit (springs/oil etc) so was a pretty sluggish all round, but having tried different approaches and different throttle/brake combos never really got anywhere. I thought it would be alot more balanced no?

I also had IB42's in the back as opposed to the lighter Lipo's but it still nose dived like mad??

Any idea's

Throttle control?

Power on over the jump will keep the nose up. Lifting off will make it nosedive.

If confidence is the issue as you mention - attack the jumps - keeping the nose up will keep your head up.

WHITTLER555 · #**250** 06-11-2008

HMMM! I had exactly the opposite problem last sunday at the new Bury venue. They had some sleeping policemen type jumps which could be doubled by most of the cars except the 501x's in attendance. This was because they were too nose up and landing right over on the rear shock tower. i tried my Losi XX4 and this jumped them fine. I then compared the two cars and on sight the 501x has its batterys and motor a lot further back on the chassis which i surmised was causing the irregular jumping problem.

However I miust say that on the properly built tables top, proper run up and down slope the car jumped fine, it was just the short sharp takeoffs that it was not happy with.

jimmy · #**251** 06-11-2008

jimarea51 · #**252** 06-11-2008

Jimmy!!!!

Nice graphic man!!!!!

JIm

jimmy · #**253** 06-11-2008

Cheers Jim

In case anyone wondered the cars are:

Aero
BJ4we
501X
XX4
Pred X10

I don't think the weight on the 501X is particularly far back compared to other cars - also remembering the 501X has heavy front bulkheads and a servo further forward which might go a little way toward pushing weight up front some more compared to the XX4. Cutting my rear wing helped settle my 501X when I had a similar issue but I also found it to be as much about driving style.

WHITTLER555 · #**254** 06-11-2008

Nice pic Jimmy, you are too smart for your own good!

Looking at the pics you can see a distinct difference in the XX4 against the 501x, the XX4 has its heavy components more central and closer together. The 501x has them further back and it has the metal centre bulkhead housing he slipper. The weight further back on the 501x does give it superb rear end grip and traction out of corners, it also make it understeer, ideal for JIM D!

As you know I like running my 501x but there were around 4 or 5 501x's running at Bury last sunday and none of them were good on the sleeping policemen jumps.

I tried a direct comparison same tyres etc on the XX4 and it jumped a lot better, I could nail it everytime, however I must admit that the XX4 had way too much acceleration (my fault as to cope with crap cells at the start of the Nationals i turned the wick up on the speedo, my new cells now caused a certain amount of too much wheelspin)

I did consider cutting the gurney down on the wing and to be honest I didn't get round to it.

If there is a next time at Bury I will try the wing mod you suggest.

DaveG28 · #**255** 21-12-2008

Guys,

What springs is everyone tending to use? Lipo and none Lipo? Just looked on the petitrc universal chart and the tamiya's seem way soft, blue is dotter than kyosho yellow pot any yok springs etc?

I was intending to use Tam soft (red) in hue back, as per worlds kit standard, but this is making me wonder?

Also, running Lipo the rear is too high with Tam springs no matter what (can't get driveshafts level, assume that's a good rodeheight?), kyosho yellows are shorter but will they be way too stiff with less weight such as Lipo??

veecee · #**256** 06-02-2009

What Lipos are you running? I run MaxAmps 5000's (old) and ride height is ok.

Anybody with a good setup for running Lipos? I just can't get the 501X sorted on a clay track running Lipo's. Running a Hupo 2007 EC setup, the car lacks steering and is a little unpredictable at times. I think the balance may be out with Lipos and their is bugger all room to add lead.

Anyone with some suggestions?

sidecarphil · #**257** 15-03-2009

what tyres does every one use ??

we have an indoor carpet track and an outdoor 1/5 track that is made of astroturf

DaveG28 · #**258** 18-03-2009

All,

What effect do upper link positions have, eg on the 501 in board there is an outer/middle/inner hole for the inboard camber link ball stud. What impact does it have moving inboard/outboard?

Balders · #**259** 01-09-2009

Does anyone have a decent starting setup for Kiddy.

Heading up to the finals on the weekend and want to have something on the car that'll be a good starting point?

Cheers

Mike

Skidracer · #**260** 08-09-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by veecee

Anyone with some suggestions?

Bigger lipos? I run 6200's in mine, and they are almost as heavy as "normal" batteries. Ballance seems fine to me. I'm a completely useless driver though, so my preferences might be different from yours. Mind you, I had to grind a bit of the top plate to fit these, so my chassis probably twists a bit more in the rear.