Tamiya Durga DB01 EP Buggy (A cheaper 501X?)

[DCM]

the shocks are fine to be honest, CVD's on the front but the dogbones work ok, slipper, yes, but if sourced correctly, still cheap.

[Metla]

Originally Posted by DCM

the shocks are fine to be honest, CVD's on the front but the dogbones work ok, slipper, yes, but if sourced correctly, still cheap.

Personal views, For me, I hate the feel of the budget Tamiya shocks, even if they do their job reasonably well.

I like to be able to set up a shock to give me the feel i like, Never managed to do it with the black Tamiya shocks, Currently the suspension feels like a worn out trampoline. It ain't going to handle the terrain of the track I race at.

Likewise CVD's, I prefer them over dogbones, So will be fitting them on each wheel.

I'd expect the add-ons to add an extra $200 to the kit.

[DCM]

where the fook are you buying them from???

[Metla]

RCMART in HK usually, Locally perhaps through E-Com trading.

And while I haven't priced anything up for the DB-01, A set of DF-03 shocks cost me $80NZ plus delivery.

Don't forget there is a lot of sea between NZ and the rest of the world.

[DCM]

not as much air between HK and the UK though.....

[jimmy]

Originally Posted by Metla

Lets not get too carried away

You slated it and said it was ugly, cheap and tacky and would remain so matter what you did to it.. Just assumed you didn't want it that's all Easy mistake! hehe

Tamiya are bringing out the 501X shocks if you want to wait for those - or get AE B4 shocks for it (might be cheaper??). Don't put df03 shocks on it as they are barely any better than kit. The kit ones are ok if the track is smooth - after that point you are battling with the car more and more - but..... 116 quid!

[Carlos69]

I made my after market TRF501x steering brace fit: put the cross piece back to front and a blue 2mm spacer under each ballstud.

[veecee]

Hey buttmonkey, pls post some pics. I'm in HK for a week so this gives me plenty of time to do the sums and figure whether I should park a Durga alongside my 501X... My budget is somewhat limited after having recently forked out $$$ for a 416...

[Carlos69]

Sorry VeeCee, my digital cam is playing up !
ps: want a spare rear c/f shock tower for your TRF501x ? (see ad on rctech)

[Eddie168]

can anyone help me? i striped one of the blue screw that goes into the gear box last night it's quiet tight and how can i get it back out?

[DCM]

pair of mole grips? otherwise you will have to remove the other screws, drill it's head off, take the gear case top off of use pliers.

[Eddie168]

Originally Posted by DCM

pair of mole grips? otherwise you will have to remove the other screws, drill it's head off, take the gear case top off of use pliers.

i don't think any plier and mole grip could fit in that hole, is there any other way without breaking the gear box? or is it the problem with the hex key i am using, the one that comes with the kit

[DCM]

you got to look t the condition of the hex in the screw, chances are they are rounded off. Either use plier on the outside of the head, remove the rest of the screws. All else fails, the head will need to be drilled off.

[jimmy]

Ah.................................
Allen keys like that really aren't made for the job of these screws mate. I used to use allen keys when I was starting racing and it was a nightmare. Get yourself a decent 2mm driver. I've had a few different ones but now use the Hudy Profitools one, it's not a bad price and really nice quality.
It will fit the screws better and just be a lot easier to use.

[Eddie168]

Originally Posted by jimmy

Ah.................................
Allen keys like that really aren't made for the job of these screws mate. I used to use allen keys when I was starting racing and it was a nightmare. Get yourself a decent 2mm driver. I've had a few different ones but now use the Hudy Profitools one, it's not a bad price and really nice quality.
It will fit the screws better and just be a lot easier to use.

so is there any chance i could get it out without breaking the gear box using a decent 2mm driver? any suggestion what one i should get?
cheers mate

[jimmy]

it might be possible sure, being alloy though it's gonna be tough. Any decent 2mm hex driver will be better than the allen key - but personally I like the Hudy profi tools, they are the cheaper plastic handled ones. The more you chew it up with that allen key the less likely you are gonna be to take it out with a proper driver I'm afraid. you'll wonder how you ever coped when you get a decent driver on the case.

[Eddie168]

Originally Posted by jimmy

it might be possible sure, being alloy though it's gonna be tough. Any decent 2mm hex driver will be better than the allen key - but personally I like the Hudy profi tools, they are the cheaper plastic handled ones. The more you chew it up with that allen key the less likely you are gonna be to take it out with a proper driver I'm afraid. you'll wonder how you ever coped when you get a decent driver on the case.

so breaking the gear box is my only choice i guess

[Northy]

No! Drill the head off with a 3mm bit.

G

[3975dave]

as has been said dude drill the top off the damaged screw, remove the others and then the gearbox top. you should be left with a stud sticking up and just twist it out with some pliers or grips hth

[3975dave]

beat me to it northy