501X setup discussion - Page 5

GRIFF55 · #81 09-04-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by TRF_Tastic

O Amen on the hairy front, had to go back to running the diff yesterday, as it didnt give me enough feel before the car let go completely. We had 3 501's running yesterday at the regional with mixed results, I got 1st in the D, another guy got 2nd in the B, and another got 3rd in the A in his first offroad regional, after only 6-7 meetings in offroad, which I thought was a stunning result.

What regionals were these?

bender · #82 10-04-2007

Jimmy -

Any chance you could do an update to your editable 501 setup sheet to show the 3 Tamiya sway bars plus perhaps a part to show what front/centre/rear pulley sizes are being used.

I wouldv'e had a go at it myself but my dodgy version of Acrobat has packed up

jimmy · #83 10-04-2007

No worries mate , I will add those asap, along with the upgraded hubs too..

TRF_Tastic · #84 10-04-2007

East of England regionals Griff.

TRF_Tastic · #85 10-04-2007

Jimmy can you also add the changes to the steering bridge as there are three holes on there to change the ackerman angle.

Think that this will add a usefull addition to the 501 for steering changes and not just another pretty blue bit.

bender · #86 22-04-2007

Had a mixed meeting with the 501X last night.

I got the car working very well well come finals time (2 A-finals) but had a few reliability issues.

I won the first final but retired from the second final whilst again leading.

Firstly, I discovered that the kit ball-joints aren't the strongest

On one part of a track you have a section which is basically 2 sets of double jumps followed by a tabletop. You have to get the whole section just right to get through it quickly, or you either crash or roll through a couple of the jumps.

I crashed a few times during the night - and a couple of times the front camber link popped off - luckily no broken parts.

I am going to run the new Ultima ball-joints on the car as the ball size is the same but they are much harder to pop on, so they should be harder to pop off too

In the second final I seized the drive-train up

What happened was one of the screws that hold those little bearings that stop the belt skipping had come loose, and the screw and bearing moved across and jammed the slipper

I think I'd better use some threadlock on those screws!

Finally, one thing I tried which was very successful was running TA-05 plastic diff outdrives in the front diff. There was no wear and the diff was so much lighter!

Our state championships are coming up in about 5 weeks - after that I might try and see how long the TA-05 outdrives will last in the rear diff.

bender · #87 22-04-2007

I forgot - I posted my setup on the setup thread.

All I need now is an up-to-date blank set up sheet - Jimmy

hint hint

BREEZER · #88 22-04-2007

Is it posable to get spares in the uk for this car and if so where.

Thanking You,

MARTIN.

TRF_Tastic · #89 22-04-2007

I dont believe that there is anywhere in the UK that are selling parts for the car. However Japan and Hong Kong are the best places for parts and very quick on delivery.

dtech · #90 22-04-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by bender

Finally, one thing I tried which was very successful was running TA-05 plastic diff outdrives in the front diff. There was no wear and the diff was so much lighter!

Our state championships are coming up in about 5 weeks - after that I might try and see how long the TA-05 outdrives will last in the rear diff.

Bender,
Your post got me thinking! Since the 501X and the TA-05 use the diff. , why does the diff on the TA-05 use the diff plate w/ two flat sides and the 501x just a simple ring. Would there be a gain in efficency if one were to use the TA-05 diff ring w/ flat sides? I would think that by having the plates lock onto the outdrives would provide a more efficent drivetrain(less of a chance for plates to move), or is this a way for the diff to provide more of a slipper type action? Fairly new to off road but is the plain ring design used commonly in off-road diffs?

Now I'm thinking of buying the lightweight alum. diff out drives for the TA-05 and throw the flat plates on to see what happens. Maybe also trying the lightweight one-way drive cups for the front.

Any thoughts welcome, as I come from an on-road background where every little gram counts and realize in off-road a little extra weight may mean a stronger vehicle.

TRF_Tastic · #91 22-04-2007

I dont see any reason why this wouldnt work in principle, might be a bit harder on outdrives and drive shafts but it should work, as this type of diff is employed in other makes of offroad car with success.

With less rotating mass the transmission should spool up quicker as well, which would make the transmission more efficient and thus the electrics shouldnt get so hot.

I would be very interested to know how you get on with this experiment, however I dont want to have to replace the diff halves after every meeting and the same with the driveshafts!! I wonder if the team drivers have had a play with this idea???

bert digler · #92 22-04-2007

has any one heard of the 508 worlds car it apperently is on these shores wtf

TRF_Tastic · #93 22-04-2007

Ok Burt wheres the joke!!! I must be thick as I dont get it, and its Monday tomorrow and the week is likely to go all wrong from the start!!

HELP ME AND EXPLAIN...........

jimmy · #94 22-04-2007

Updated the setup sheet- lemme know if there are any problems
Added the anti-roll bars and hop-up hubs

TRF_Tastic · #95 23-04-2007

Jim, could you put on the options for the hop up Steering bridge, please.

jimmy · #96 23-04-2007

good thinking batman, I will stick those on tonight.

bender · #97 23-04-2007

I believe the main reason the plastic diff halves used "keyed" diff rings is simply because any slip between these components and the diff would soon melt.

You don't have that problem with steel diff halves.

However, i used the standard diff rings with the plastic diff halves and it was fine - but this was for the front diff, which is under less stress than the rear diff.

If I try the TA05 plastic diff halves in the back it will only be with the "keyed" diff rings.

I personally wouldn't recommend using the alloy diff halves either - having used them in both the 415MSX and Evo5 - they wore quite badly if you didn't replace the plastic blades very often. I also think the plastic blades wouldn't hold up too well in mod.

Thanks for updating the setup sheet Jimmy

BORMAC · #98 23-04-2007

Hello Bender (Jason),
Sorry I didnt get to the track Saturday night,I'd been unwell.It sounds as though you are doing well enough aside from the lack of Locktite.I used Locktite on every single screw that went into a metal fitting.Havent had anything come lose yet (touch wood).Are you still running stock? I ended up making the trip up there Sunday late morning and ran the 501 a few times.Ive found that Losi RED X-2000 were handling better on the rear than the INSIDE JOBs.Less oversteer on the slippery dry track.Ive gotten myself a couple of Novak's SINTERED rotors and they sure do make some difference.Thanks again for that link through to handling and suspension set ups.When are you up there next?Cheers-Jason.

bender · #99 23-04-2007

Hi Jason,

I sent you an email, and yes, the car was working very well. I was running Mod with a 13 double - no-one could believe how fast it was with that motor

I couldn't get X-2000's to work - switched to Holeshots all round for the last heat - went 2 laps quicker and TQ'ed

DaveG28 · #**100** 24-04-2007

Hi all,

What is a good weight (tamiye wise) oil to use for grass, I am using tamiya 700 weight at the moment, and believ this is @70wt AE wise which I assume is way too thick an oil?

Also, on the ali steering bridge, which hole is equivalent to the plastic bridge for me to use as a base setup?

Cheers,

Dave