Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy

[Rossi_14]

Hello,

i should have posted a picture of my motor mount as well.
yes richard the pinion was loose when i picked up the car and looked for the noise. should have checked more frequently. i did 8 batteries yesterday only checking the motor position as i was aware there is a issue with this. motor didn't move the whole day but as you can see the center diff was forced into the motor mount. i think combined with the moving pinion and the hard impact that caused the damage on the spur.
anyway i had a lot of fun with the car learned to check the pinion as well and now its time to find a suitable setup for this track.

[Richard Lowe]

Mine has scratched the motor mount too, it's the centre diff screws just catching on the mount as things flex. There's not a lot we can do about it for the moment besides possibly removing a little bit of material from the mount as there's no room to shim the diff one way or the another.

Mine's been running fine like that from day one, I wouldn't worry about it

[leeboy44]

[QUOTE=Richard Lowe;876594]Mine has scratched the motor mount too, it's the centre diff screws just catching on the mount as things flex. There's not a lot we can do about it for the moment besides possibly removing a little bit of material from the mount as there's no room to shim the diff one way or the another.

ive not run mine yet but ive sunk the holes on the spur to take a washer and to sink the screws further so the heads wont hit the mount

this is until i can get to use the lathe in work and remove some alloy on the motor mount

[johan neyens]

The car has been out now for some time.

How are you finding the performance of the car on (high) grip astro.
Any points i have to look out for beside the spur/motor mount?

[mrroy76]

mine is also scratched. Last weekend we had our final race in the national cup here in Norway and we ran on dirt/gravel and my spur gear where raped by a small stone getting in on the underside of the spur gear. And the area is so tight. I solved this by putting 2 mm shims under the centerdiff mounts. It got me around 3mm clearing underneath it then,

Look at this video from the race. My buggy is nr 5 black and yellow. the beginning and last half of the heat shows my car alot. It was kinda slippery and it had rained and started raining

I had 300k in center on this and it worked perfect. 7,5turn motor

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mfVW...Nu0n9sSXA8sKxg

[focusmad]

Hi guys,has anyone run a d413 indoors at Silverstone?Looking for a setup to run in a couple of weeks
Chris

[mes]

These kits have been around now for a while. Would you guys recommend it to someone who is used to Kyosho/Yokomo/VBC Racing quality and intends to run it on loose dirt? I am looking for a wheeler as a stand in until the VBC 4WD will be released. As I don't want the B44.3 due to its SAE hardware and Kyosho seems not to be a viable option in Germany at this time, it is probably either the D413 or the lightweight B-Max4III.

[Richard Lowe]

Originally Posted by focusmad

Hi guys,has anyone run a d413 indoors at Silverstone?Looking for a setup to run in a couple of weeks
Chris

Try the RHR national setup - http://www.petitrc.com/setup/hotbodi...e_RHR20140824/

You might want to add another couple of mm droop limiters all round and lower the ride height a couple of turns for Silverstone

[sime46]

Got the electrics fitted into my second D413 today. This one is setup in saddle layout. It'll be interesting to see how it compares to my shorty car. I can back to back them to compare. Anyone else tried their D413 in saddle configuration?

[dMITIj]

So what is nice spare parts to have right from the go?

And is there any hopups for the D413?

[Richard Lowe]

Originally Posted by dMITIj

So what is nice spare parts to have right from the go?

And is there any hopups for the D413?

Hop up's - IMO the carbon arm inserts are pretty much essential, the B front tower and A/C rear towers are nice to have too.

As for spares I'd grab some of M3x20mm countersunk screws that bolt the arm mounts to the gearbox's as the front screw can bend if you hit something hard enough directly on the block. I've heard of the odd person breaking the 112713/112714 tower mounts, and one or two people have had the plastic shock tops pull off the top of the shocks.

Personally I've only bent a couple of the arm mount screws when I first got the car, other than that and having replaced worn front CVA bones I'm still on all the original parts for my car.

[/tobys]

I would agree with Rich, those front bolts are essential spares; I've not run mine much and have bent 2-3 aleady.

I would also recommend the B5 plastic shock caps and standoffs - and you might need to get a couple of packs as one of mine didn't fit right, regardless of which shock I screwed it onto, it didn't screw all the way on and eventually starts leaking oil. Some folks on rctech have commented the same. They are pretty cheap though so not too much of a hardship. You'll also need to 22-25mm bolts to secure these onto the shock tower. If you mount them screw first, nut at the back, it makes it easy to change position but more crucially, less likely to dig in on a roll and break something. You'll notice that Ty Tessman mounts his shocks using the same method.

CF arm plates again, necessary. Maybe not so much in very low grip but I think the plastic is a bit soft anyway and the CF does make a noticeable difference (for the better IMO).

On the subject of the arms being soft, one of my front ones has either prematurely worn or been pulled out of shape on the inner hingepin. I've contacted HPI (who have been very helpful in the past) but curious to hear if anyone else has experienced this.

I also put an alloy servo horn on as the kit servo saver looked like it would be a liability. As long as you have a strong metal geared servo, should be OK (famous last words)...

I've not tried the option towers yet so cannot comment on those.

HTH

[dMITIj]

Originally Posted by Richard Lowe

Hop up's - IMO the carbon arm inserts are pretty much essential, the B front tower and A/C rear towers are nice to have too.

As for spares I'd grab some of M3x20mm countersunk screws that bolt the arm mounts to the gearbox's as the front screw can bend if you hit something hard enough directly on the block. I've heard of the odd person breaking the 112713/112714 tower mounts, and one or two people have had the plastic shock tops pull off the top of the shocks.

Personally I've only bent a couple of the arm mount screws when I first got the car, other than that and having replaced worn front CVA bones I'm still on all the original parts for my car.

thank you, these things added to my wish list

Which brand oil do you guys use in the shocks and diff? and what springs?

[dMITIj]

Originally Posted by /tobys

I would agree with Rich, those front bolts are essential spares; I've not run mine much and have bent 2-3 aleady.

I would also recommend the B5 plastic shock caps and standoffs - and you might need to get a couple of packs as one of mine didn't fit right, regardless of which shock I screwed it onto, it didn't screw all the way on and eventually starts leaking oil. Some folks on rctech have commented the same. They are pretty cheap though so not too much of a hardship. You'll also need to 22-25mm bolts to secure these onto the shock tower. If you mount them screw first, nut at the back, it makes it easy to change position but more crucially, less likely to dig in on a roll and break something. You'll notice that Ty Tessman mounts his shocks using the same method.

CF arm plates again, necessary. Maybe not so much in very low grip but I think the plastic is a bit soft anyway and the CF does make a noticeable difference (for the better IMO).

On the subject of the arms being soft, one of my front ones has either prematurely worn or been pulled out of shape on the inner hingepin. I've contacted HPI (who have been very helpful in the past) but curious to hear if anyone else has experienced this.

I also put an alloy servo horn on as the kit servo saver looked like it would be a liability. As long as you have a strong metal geared servo, should be OK (famous last words)...

I've not tried the option towers yet so cannot comment on those.

HTH

thank you, these things added to my wish list

what alloy servo horn will fit the D413 (i got an xpert rc servo)

[Rossi_14]

hello,

i am running mine with the standard plastic inserts in the wishbones. what difference does it make to use the carbon inserts.

breakage wise i only stripped a spur gear due to a not proper tightened pinion screw. thats all and i am running weekly indoors so hard obstacles there to hit.
but i am thinking about getting the shock tower standoffs as spare for peace of mind.

[Richard Lowe]

Servo horn; I use the Answer RC 25T on an Xpert servo, pro tip - remove the washer on the ballstud on the steering bellcrank to lower it down, then use the shorter ballstud hole on the servo horn. That way you get more steering resolution which will make the steering feel much more accurate. Also less strain on the servo as there's less mechanical advantage over if you smack into something.

Oils; Personally I swear by the Associated shock oil, it's the most consistent and least temperature sensitive oil I've used over the years so I've stuck with it.
As for diff oil I use the Core RC oils as they do the full range we need (going right up the the 300k goop we use in the centre diff) and are easy/cheap to get hold of.

Remember Re the shock tops there are more traditional style alloy caps coming from HPI/HB soon. They're being manufactured now AFAIK and should be here sooner rather than later (don't hold me to that though!).

[Richard Lowe]

Originally Posted by Rossi_14

hello,

i am running mine with the standard plastic inserts in the wishbones. what difference does it make to use the carbon inserts.

It makes the car more consistent and feel more accurate, they do give the impression of less traction though so it's a tradeoff. IMO the carbon are worth it as they make the car feel nicer to drive and I can live with (in fact prefer) the rear of the car moving around a bit.

Something I've not played with yet is having different arm covers on each end of the car to change the balance. Next time at Worksop I'm going to try plastic on the back with carbon in the front to see if it makes the rear feel a bit more locked in, as at the moment the car is REALLY close for me but a little more rear traction would make it perfect

[dMITIj]

Originally Posted by Richard Lowe

Servo horn; I use the Answer RC 25T on an Xpert servo, pro tip - remove the washer on the ballstud on the steering bellcrank to lower it down, then use the shorter ballstud hole on the servo horn. That way you get more steering resolution which will make the steering feel much more accurate. Also less strain on the servo as there's less mechanical advantage over if you smack into something.

Oils; Personally I swear by the Associated shock oil, it's the most consistent and least temperature sensitive oil I've used over the years so I've stuck with it.
As for diff oil I use the Core RC oils as they do the full range we need (going right up the the 300k goop we use in the centre diff) and are easy/cheap to get hold of.

Remember Re the shock tops there are more traditional style alloy caps coming from HPI/HB soon. They're being manufactured now AFAIK and should be here sooner rather than later (don't hold me to that though!).

Thanks!


is this the one:
http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...n-red-25t.html

Originally Posted by Richard Lowe

It makes the car more consistent and feel more accurate, they do give the impression of less traction though so it's a tradeoff. IMO the carbon are worth it as they make the car feel nicer to drive and I can live with (in fact prefer) the rear of the car moving around a bit.

Something I've not played with yet is having different arm covers on each end of the car to change the balance. Next time at Worksop I'm going to try plastic on the back with carbon in the front to see if it makes the rear feel a bit more locked in, as at the moment the car is REALLY close for me but a little more rear traction would make it perfect

Could you post your setup?

[Rossi_14]

thanks Richard.

looks i need to get these things then.

[Richard Lowe]

Originally Posted by dMITIj

is this the one:
http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...n-red-25t.html

This is the one I use - http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...25t-black.html

Originally Posted by dMITIj

Could you post your setup?

All my setups from now on (and the older one's when I get my butt in gear) are in the sticky thread at the top of the HB section - http://www.oople.com/forums/showpost...71&postcount=2. I'll pop the current setup (as used at Worksop R2) up in a little bit.

Rich