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#2
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Tamiya USA have a scan of the Durga setup sheet - http://www.tamiyausa.com/pdf/setup/58395su.pdf
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#3
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My base setup - I have been using this on most surfaces, I never touch the rear end but sometimes tweak the front damper fluid or camber link depending on how much steering I need.
sosidge's base setup |
#4
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Probably just being dense but which hole is which on the rear arm on the setup sheet?
1,2,3, aint to descriptive lol. Is 3 the inside or outside??? ???
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Southport P.R.O. / Photographer of semi-naked girls www.srcc.co.uk - www.craigmagee.co.uk |
#5
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3 is the outer.
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#6
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Here is the setup i've run last few meetings.
Clicky Clicky Tried to copy BJ4 close i could as a starter. Did the rear block mod Jim was talking about. Felt good at Bury few weeks ago but i think i could of done with some more steering on sunday at southport, any ideas? maybe the kit yellow inserts i used were to hard..?
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Southport P.R.O. / Photographer of semi-naked girls www.srcc.co.uk - www.craigmagee.co.uk |
#7
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you could run a 2mm spacer under the outer front ball joint, that makes it more agressive.
I haven't found a need for more rear squat, I have actualy gone for less, I added one thin shim under the 3Racing block, to try and reduce the amount of roll at the rear. I also have up limiters on the rear shocks, and limiters inside the front and rear shocks, so the car is forced to ride flatter than with the 501X shocks.
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#8
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Is that under the castor block or the knuckle DCM??
I've got the kit 3mm under the stud on the castor block so you reckon another 2mm? I noticed that compared to the BJ4 there should probs be a washer under the knuckle stud as well! I might also go with a softer spring up front as well seeing as all i'll be running now is Lipo. Bury i had Nimhs in, southport Lipo. I milled the blocks down to make it rotate a bit more as i felt that was lacking first time out with it! Shocks do have limiters for both up and down travel but just to shorten the shocks to proper length and stop the shafts hitting the outdrives.
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Southport P.R.O. / Photographer of semi-naked girls www.srcc.co.uk - www.craigmagee.co.uk |
#9
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yeah, 2mm on the caster block, it just made the front sharper, I am even running an anti-roll bar too, and my car isn't shabby.
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#10
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cool, if it fits on i'll give it a shot at the weekend.
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Southport P.R.O. / Photographer of semi-naked girls www.srcc.co.uk - www.craigmagee.co.uk |
#11
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oh, it does, and it just makes the front end so much more responsive.
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#12
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Guys, I have finished an editable pdf setup sheet for the Durga.
It can be downloaded from the Downloads page on my website: http://web.aanet.com.au/fir/bender/Downloads.htm Diect link: http://web.aanet.com.au/fir/bender/D...ga%20blank.pdf
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Schumacher Cougar SV-Durango Dex410-Top Photon |
#13
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can you not save a form that you have edited?
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#14
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3mm i found was to much 2mm is almost spot on
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Team Associated- HobbyWing- Reedy- CML |
#15
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You can't save PDF files unless you have the full version of Acrobat (not the Reader than most people use).
The way around this is to download "Cute PDF Writer" here: http://www.cutepdf.com/download/CuteWriter.exe This installs a virtual pdf printer on your pc - so when you fill in the Pdf in Adobe reader you then select print and choose the Cute PDF printer and it will save it to your PC.
__________________
Schumacher Cougar SV-Durango Dex410-Top Photon |
#16
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Foxit Reader seems to let you save the PDF with your changes too and is a great alternative to Adobe Reader.
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#17
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Are you guy's referring to an extra 2mm on top of the already kit recommended 3mm spacer. Or are you talking about using the 2mm spacer by itself? And if im not mistaken, the C5 parts are equal to the 2mm's that you blokes are talking about? Thanks.
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#18
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Here is my current setup, ran it at South lakes regional and Southport on sunday.
Feels pretty much spot on for me, plenty of steering, good rear grip and feels nice and stable. Rear shock mod done to mount shocks off the back, just flipped the tower round and drilled new holes in the back of the arm same distance from the outer pivot as the normal middle hole. Clicky Clicky Schuy extra long ball studs on the caster blocks to fit the 3mm of spacers bit better.
__________________
Southport P.R.O. / Photographer of semi-naked girls www.srcc.co.uk - www.craigmagee.co.uk |
#19
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Why would you guys not run the TRF shocks? The kit shocks are garbage. Too much rebound and the pistons are ridiculous. Get yourselves atomic carbon front and rear towers and mount the trf shocks on the upper row of holes and voila...instantly better setup. With the stock towers the trf shocks are to long. If you guys really wanna make this baby run right you're gonna have to run these shocks, no questions asked. I club race this car at my local track for months now. Always do well and doing better every time I go out. It has even seen some outdoor action.
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#20
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cant upload setup sheet due to file size...Not sure what to do any advice?
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