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  #1  
Old 02-05-2009
warped warped is offline
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Default cutting carbon fibre

As the title says.

How do people do it?

Am snapping fret saw blades left right and centre and it's getting expensive!

Cheers
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  #2  
Old 02-05-2009
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Hacksaw or jigsaw on med speed slow feed, metal blades

westwood
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  #3  
Old 02-05-2009
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dremmel cutting disk
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Old 02-05-2009
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Whatever you do, wear a mask... nasty stuff to breathe in is carbon dust...
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  #5  
Old 02-05-2009
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if doing any sort of volume it will need to be diamond blades. And these don't last too long either.
Quality carbon is not a nice material to work with...
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Old 02-05-2009
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As above carbon fibres a proper pig to work with .
I have the splinters to show , its the cf dust and teeny skelfs/splinters that you need to watch for .
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Old 02-05-2009
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lol skelfs! remember most ppl on here aint scotish
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  #8  
Old 03-05-2009
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i know , good fun to confuse them.
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  #9  
Old 03-05-2009
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I have never cut rc car parts, but when we used to cut carbon seatposts on bikes to size, we would use a hacksaw, but we would put some tape over where we were cutting, to help reduce the splinters and get a nice edge.
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  #10  
Old 04-05-2009
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Carbide rod saw blades that mount in a hacksaw works well, used for cutting ceramic tiles so hardware shops have them. You can easily cut out complex shapes with these.
Dremel and a diamond burr is good for cutting holes inside pieces. Diamond cutting discs on the dremel work well too for cutting straight lines.

Wear long sleeves and gloves or you'll get itchy arms, and the dust mask/eye protection ofcourse..
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  #11  
Old 04-05-2009
warped warped is offline
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cheers for the suggestions..
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  #12  
Old 04-05-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bugle View Post
Wear long sleeves and gloves or you'll get itchy arms, and the dust mask/eye protection ofcourse..
Cannot recommend the long sleeves highly enough. Stupidly cut away with a Dremel and wearing a T-shirt. "Irritation" only works as a description when surrounded by loud expletives!

You'll be amazed by how much dust there is with the smallest of cuts too.
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  #13  
Old 07-05-2009
ads0021 ads0021 is offline
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Having made about 6-8 TC chassis over the years I suggest using a router with a copying bit. It leaves a very good edge and although people said that I would need to replace the bit very often, I'm still on my first one! The down side is that you need something to copy. For what I was doing it was perfect as I could copy most of the chassis and when I did the cell slots(or the bits I wanted to change) move the chassis forward and then copy the slots in the new position.

It depends on what you are doing but it might help.
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  #14  
Old 07-05-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ads0021 View Post
Having made about 6-8 TC chassis over the years I suggest using a router with a copying bit. It leaves a very good edge and although people said that I would need to replace the bit very often, I'm still on my first one! The down side is that you need something to copy. For what I was doing it was perfect as I could copy most of the chassis and when I did the cell slots(or the bits I wanted to change) move the chassis forward and then copy the slots in the new position.

It depends on what you are doing but it might help.
^ What A Good Idea After Reading This Im Going To Try Cut A New Carbon Top Deck For My Serpent And B44 WE Will See How It Go's
Any One Know Where I Can Get Some Cheap CF to practice Making Theese Decks Before I Move Onto Somthing More Complex

Ta
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  #15  
Old 09-05-2009
adam lancia adam lancia is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JJ The Boat Wizzard View Post
^ What A Good Idea After Reading This Im Going To Try Cut A New Carbon Top Deck For My Serpent And B44 WE Will See How It Go's
Any One Know Where I Can Get Some Cheap CF to practice Making Theese Decks Before I Move Onto Somthing More Complex

Ta
Practice on some G10 fiberglass (the white stuff), cheap and still functional.
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  #16  
Old 10-05-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warped View Post
As the title says.

How do people do it?

Am snapping fret saw blades left right and centre and it's getting expensive!

Cheers
get a tile cutter blade for a coping saw, cut to length and fit to the clamps on your fret saw, works a treat.
i use fret saw set up like this, i also use diamond disks on a dremel, and also have a small cnc cutter which will handle parts up to 220mm in length and 180mm wide which gets used for repeat parts, expensive to keep in mill bits tho. have also used a tile diamond disk in an angle grinder for long cuts to get them accurate. best tool to have for tidying edges and minor trimmings though is 80 grit aluminium oxide paper
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  #17  
Old 05-06-2009
makumba makumba is offline
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To keep dust down, keep the cut wet. This will make sure the dust clumps in a sort of sludge rather than fly all over the place. Whenever I have to drill it I use a drop of water right on the bit, when cutting it may be a little bit more complicated but that's the idea. Never had any problems with dust ever.
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  #18  
Old 17-06-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adam lancia View Post
Practice on some G10 fiberglass (the white stuff), cheap and still functional.
Wheres a good place to buy fibreglass, anyplace online? Whats the torsional stiffness like compared to c/f?
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  #19  
Old 17-06-2009
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Id be interested to get some G10 fibreglass too.
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