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#1
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Thinking of C4.1
Hi fellas. I have struggled to get to grips with my SV2 and am considering a C4.1. Running mainly on Astro, are there any hot tips or considerations I should be aware of? Are there any generally accepted options that you have all ended up using from the 'standard' conversion? Any tips gratefully received. Cheers, Nick.
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#2
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My biggest tip to you is don't get a C4.1 until CML have sorted out the quality issues - which will probably be never as they make a fortune of the necassary extras that u need to buy to make it a reliable car!
Instead, wait a short while and get your hands on one of the atomic carbon S2 Evo kits that will be being released shortly - check out the atomic carbon forum on oOple for updates! |
#3
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Hi ye would agree with the quaility not the greatest but the car seems to go round the track well as for upgrades i would recommed the chassis strenghtener things i've only run mine for 2 meetings and the chassis was bent quite badly so i've bought the braces to try and stop this problem (not run it yet). TBH though i think they should come with the conversion kit in the first place
As for other upgrades abit of brass wieght in the front and thats all i've got in mine |
#4
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Overall, I think CML have done a great job with excellent support |
#5
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any car you crash heavily will break or bend something. It goes without saying that an alloy chassis will bend rather than break. If anything this is a major plus as it will most likely allow you to finish a race at least!
If you don't want to spend extra money on braces then no one is stopping you from knocking some up yourself. I'm pretty sure it's not rocket science to bolt some fibreglass onto the side of the chassis and mark it up and shape it to fit nicely. At the end of the day the Centro is an amazing car which has achieved some amazing results in a short space of time. I see a hell of a lot of the cars in the Mid-West region and again competing in the National series. Given the B4 was such a popular car pre-Mid motor band wagon and a lot of people have X6's there was only the £169.99 cost to obtain a Centro. Pretty cheap considering alternative cars out there costing £500+ to build. Granted you could argue people will already have both Kyosho cars so could build their 2wd from those, but you are gutting 2 cars to build 1 rather than replacing your B4/X6 with a Centro. At the end of the day if you want to go slow and survive crashes then use a slower car. If you want to go faster with a car that might not drive away from smacking a un-movable object then the Centro is a great car at a great price. |
#6
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Carbon side supports
A few spare wings and mounts A few pairs of spare castor blocks Ghea Delrin front bulkhead Blue/silver front springs Silver/green rear springs Carbon lipo strap Chassis protectors for chassis rather than using undertrays A few brass weights ideally to tune front end in yöu can mount these on chassis in front of servo and under Ackerman mount Plastic 0 degree rear hubs Vented slipper plates Hi torque pads 78 spur Carbon b4 arms all round Probsbly more but I've forgotten!!
__________________
Gareth Hill Schumacher - Sanwa - LRP - Mb models |
#7
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what's that? your shopping list?
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#8
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#9
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surely the carbon battery brace is just bling?
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#10
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I've never broken a chassis before on any of my cars apart from my C4.1 which bent after only a few knocks. I certainly am not happy about buying a conversion kit at £170 and having to remove the chassis and bend it straight every week or two. Once bent the allow will become softer and will bend more easily, and will not act / flex in the same way as a brand new unbent chassis. To say that its not a bad price would be correct if you bought the standard conversion kit at £170 and then didn't have to buy anything else: Vega RB5 Version 2 conversion kit retail at £175 - Vega B4.1 Conversion retail at £165/170 - X6 squared kit retail around £150/160 - Losi 22 full car kit retail around £200 - durango full car kit retail at around £200 ----- Centro C4.1 £170 + Carbon Fibre side peices £30/35 meaning total cost of basic C4.1 is £200+ (then get ready to get another £35 out ur wallet to replace the 2 pivot blocks as they'll wear out after only a month or so). Only the Kyosho DB1 is more expensive as you need to have 2 cars as donor cars. These are all issues of the C4.1 but will not be issues with the new Atomic Carbon S2 Evo - which brings me back to my first post... Better to wait and buy the S2 Evo as the handling of the car will still be awesome and fast and consistant on all tracks - but will have none of the bad quality that comes with the C4.1. With the S2 Evo you get the best of a great car and great quality. I was not happy with my C4.1 so I went back to my old faithful CR2 and have never looked back - and I might add that I am just as quick with the CR2 than I was with the C4.1! |
#11
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It looks like no car will suit you just one point, how did you know the chassis was bent? as mine is bent and the only way i knew was reading posts on here and then looking to see myself, i never knew by the handling |
#12
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For instance the B4 is a very good car, but how some guys can just stick to one car and race it for years on end is beyond my comprehension (and self control)
__________________
Life's too short to go slow! www.ymr.no Tech Tips, HopUps & Bling Xray 2014 XB4 4WD & 2WD | B4 FTW Night Fox XL | Mugen MRX-5 | RB | Futaba 3VCS FASST | Faskolor Visit my showroom |
#13
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mines had more than a few knocks in the 7 months I’ve had it and its straight, the chassis does not need straightening every week or so, at least mine doesn’t! its run on grass, astro, indoor carpet with big wooden jumps etc. and is fine , also the pin blocks don’t need replacing after a month, mine are still the originals and are probably due for replacement now, after 7 months of weekly use, sometimes twice a week.
chassis stiffeners are an option and produced as a tuning aid more than a resolve to some people bending chassis. so there for do NOT need to be purchased. these are MY findings, and i am, just as Wacker 2 and everyone else in this thread, offering my opinion. at the end of the day the choice is yours, my only suggestion is, go with whatever you feel you will get the most support from! see what the other guys at your club are using! see how they get on with whatever it is they are using. ask them about the support they get from the manufacturer/distributor. that’s the advice i would give and hopefully his thread won’t turn into a product/manufacturer slanging match good luck with your choice |
#14
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Thanks guys, all valuable comments. I just have a feeling that I may find a more consistent set up with a C4.1 than I have managed with the Cougar. I dont like swapping cars, but sometimes we just suit one better than another. Money wise, I have tried a few options on the Cougar so its all pretty similiar money when all is said and done.
Of course, I may just sell a child and get a DB1!!!! |
#15
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Mine wasn't a shopping list mine was a list of useful things you will need to tune and to aid on track There's more on my car but I won't bother mentioning these if those are the sort of replies il get Each to there own Im the same with anything I buy ! If anyone needs help with there c4.1 in the north west area give me a shout whether it's it's tuning or setup wise il help
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Gareth Hill Schumacher - Sanwa - LRP - Mb models |
#16
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thanks in advance for your help
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Ansmann ARE-2 - 5.5T C4.1 Centro - 7.5T X-Factory SCX-60 - 10.5T Hyper 9e - MMM |
#17
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Fill all 4 holes with thread lock and then stick pin in before it sets
__________________
Gareth Hill Schumacher - Sanwa - LRP - Mb models |
#18
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Genius!!!
__________________
Life's too short to go slow! www.ymr.no Tech Tips, HopUps & Bling Xray 2014 XB4 4WD & 2WD | B4 FTW Night Fox XL | Mugen MRX-5 | RB | Futaba 3VCS FASST | Faskolor Visit my showroom |
#19
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dont you mean 'bodge'?! shouldn't be having to do that with a new kit!
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#20
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Bodge - genius either way solves the problem.
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cml distrubutions/dragon paints/rumney hill tattoo |
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