Lazer zxr

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by HKS_TRD

Excellent, thanks for the info.
What size regular bearing can you substitute for the thrust bearing between the pulleys or do I need to bite the bullet and buy some new Kyosho thrust bearings?

Ive forgotten, sorry but believe i used a bearing from a worn out Reedy Mr Series motor which placed both pulleys perfectly next to one another. Id base it on the washer from the zx that sits next to the thrust washer to be on the safe side. Rama must be correct as a 3mm nut used on the one way or slipper but the shaft is much thicker.

[isobarik]

4 x 8 should it be

Mvh isobarik

[Welshy40]

Happy Christmas everyone, 2016 is going to be a good one, I intend to finish my car in the next six months (with exception of the diffs which will be later) and aim to make an impact on the track once again. Have a great one.

[HKS_TRD]

Happy New Year to everyone.
I finished the first ZX-R which was for my friend and has a Carbon Fibre tub and James rear gearbox design along with CVDs, nylon front gearbox housing and other mods. Struggling to post pics using my phone.
It has the RW spur gear using associated slipper pads but I'm not sure what size pinion to start with.
Next project is my shelf queenbZX-R with vintage twill weave tub and then my runner with the Fibrelyte tub chassis.
I'm trying to decide which turnbuckles to use on my runner, I'm considering using the Kyosho titanium ones I have here.

[HKS_TRD]

I have another question:
Who actually bought the parts that Oosh made a few years back, and in particular the front gearbox and does anyone have one they are willing to part with ...

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by HKS_TRD

Happy New Year to everyone.
I finished the first ZX-R which was for my friend and has a Carbon Fibre tub and James rear gearbox design along with CVDs, nylon front gearbox housing and other mods. Struggling to post pics using my phone.
It has the RW spur gear using associated slipper pads but I'm not sure what size pinion to start with.
Next project is my shelf queenbZX-R with vintage twill weave tub and then my runner with the Fibrelyte tub chassis.
I'm trying to decide which turnbuckles to use on my runner, I'm considering using the Kyosho titanium ones I have here.

Lunsford are the best tie rods and look stunning.

What motor is he using and can give you an idea on pinion

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by HKS_TRD

I have another question:
Who actually bought the parts that Oosh made a few years back, and in particular the front gearbox and does anyone have one they are willing to part with ...

I did but only because i helped him with the design, as he based it on what i wanted. Its not a good design as it vibrates apart and does need a redesign. Im keeping it as a back up as ive done a slight redesign on the cf plates but the metal cover needs doing away with and a brace design is needed between both sides to stop vibration.

[HKS_TRD]

Originally Posted by Welshy40

Lunsford are the best tie rods and look stunning.

What motor is he using and can give you an idea on pinion

Haven't picked a motor yet.
Is Lunsford what you out on the ZX-S?
Is eBay the best place to buy them?

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by HKS_TRD

Haven't picked a motor yet.
Is Lunsford what you out on the ZX-S?
Is eBay the best place to buy them?

I contact Lunsford directly for titanium tie rods, very easy to deal with and never had any issues, they ship worldwide and is considerably cheaper than buying through a shop. I measure out the exact length and base my size on the Associated B2 threads as I use associated ball joints.

[HKS_TRD]

Originally Posted by Welshy40

I contact Lunsford directly for titanium tie rods, very easy to deal with and never had any issues, they ship worldwide and is considerably cheaper than buying through a shop. I measure out the exact length and base my size on the Associated B2 threads as I use associated ball joints.

Thanks for the tip I'll look into that. I have Kyosho grey heavy duty rod ends that I was planning on using along with Kyosho ball studs. I even have some of the fluorine coated ones

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by HKS_TRD

Thanks for the tip I'll look into that. I have Kyosho grey heavy duty rod ends that I was planning on using along with Kyosho ball studs. I even have some of the fluorine coated ones

Should be o at the speed your going at, me I kept popping the Kyosho ones and found the RC10B2 ball joints never popped off so fitted and have never let me down.

[Welshy40]

Ok, been a while since ive been developing anything but before Christmas I asked three people to see if they could do a 3D drawing of the knuckle arms as I have lost making A finals and winning them due to king pins vibrating out so had two ideas that needed to be examined and if it was plausible. Well first option was to countersink the inner king pin section of the knuckle but turned out that I would have had issues in fitting it and wouldnt be worthwhile so was a no go for that. Then the other was a hex nut hole cut into the same area with enough dop to get a slim nut in on both sections to use a nyloc nut instead and meant a much easier to maintain. Ok so its got designed on 3d and ive had a 3d version made and sent here, I havent tested it yet but the nuts fit in nicelye and think it may go together with enough room for a free moving Uj.

First piccy is the 3D picture, second is showing the hex nut hole cut out in the inner section of the knuckle and thrid picture is the nut in place. As always give me your throughts on this. Next is to tyr an dget an alloy paid made and also will try to get a mold made so we can get it made out of plastic for a good test

[HKS_TRD]

Thats looking great James. I was thinking the countersunk screw idea you originally had would be hard to assemble if not impossible and seems you came to the same conclusion.
What depth does the nut need to be to work for this design? I plan to run a kingpin ballpoint and it looks like this design will be compatible with that.
Another option is to use a bolt inside the knuckle and a nyloc nut on the outside but that may foul on the c hubs.
Another advantage I see in your design is there is no thread in the knuckle to fail, how many f us have had a perfectly good knuckle arm rendered useless due to a stripped kingpin thread.
Will the 3D printed version be suitable for running, I anticipate alloy is best to be able to tighten the screw right up without fear of the nut chewing out the hex opening

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by HKS_TRD

Thats looking great James. I was thinking the countersunk screw idea you originally had would be hard to assemble if not impossible and seems you came to the same conclusion.
What depth does the nut need to be to work for this design? I plan to run a kingpin ballpoint and it looks like this design will be compatible with that.
Another option is to use a bolt inside the knuckle and a nyloc nut on the outside but that may foul on the c hubs.
Another advantage I see in your design is there is no thread in the knuckle to fail, how many f us have had a perfectly good knuckle arm rendered useless due to a stripped kingpin thread.
Will the 3D printed version be suitable for running, I anticipate alloy is best to be able to tighten the screw right up without fear of the nut chewing out the hex opening

Dan,

Nut cant go deeper than 2.0mm (i think or is it 2.5?), pity the king pins cant be reversed but as per the countersunk its not an easy job in putting together so a nyloc nut is the only way.

Im unsure on the strength but am passing a pair to my freind to make a mold and do in his strongest plastic and see how it stands up to my abuse, yes alloy is what im aiming for but finally ive managed to finish the first stage of making a proto of one of my new ideas

[HKS_TRD]

On a different note, where did you get your flanged blue anodised M3 nyloc nuts from James.
Kyosho only do them without a flange

[Welshy40]

I got some nyloc slim nuts from someone here when he went to Japan, but dont recall flanged. I might have got some flanged nuts from fastrax but unsure.

[Welshy40]

Ok did a trial fit on these knuckles and one was perfect and the other was tighter so will need to dremel file the bottom of the nut for a perfect fit. Also the nut hole was fractionally too big so one nut rounded the hole and was not that easy to remove. Still thats what testings all about.

[Welshy40]

Second version arrived and perfect. Now to get a mold made and out of plastic. Then my race car steering issues resolved.

[HKS_TRD]

Guys, have a question regarding ball diffs and in particular the outdrives and plates. There are two different sets available, WBD-1 and WBD-5. The former has small diameter silver plates that the friction plates sit on and the latter has black plates which are the same diameter as the friction plates. Which one belongs on a ZX-R, ZX-RMKII, ZX-RR and ZX-S and which are the right ones for a Mid? I believe the tensioning screw setup also changed is this correct?
I'm trying to get all my new parts builds as correct as possible

[HKS_TRD]

Separate question, does anyone have a vintage white spur gear that will fit a ZX or ZX-R layshaft, I need it for a special shelfer project