8th driver/cold weather/small space = Broken Cat

[BRS]

I'm sure the Cat SX isnt weak by 10th car standards but I've broken more bits on this in less than a month that I've ever done in 8th LOL

1 x shock shaft
3 x front wishbones
10 x m3 screws
1 x front blocks (are they made from furniture grade alloy?)
1 x front hinge pin

Sure the extreme cold had alot to do with it, that and confined space under a covered bit of stable block and a faulty futaba 2.4module (started unpairing after about 10min use)

Just thought I'd give you a laugh by sharing that.
Coming from 8th it seems weird that these 10th cars are having weight added too them by most why isnt someone making a stronger ie heavier car in the first place?
Seems a little too easy to wipe a corner off these things as they are. (I know its my fault)

Do these cars have much lock normaly I was fairly surprised at how wide the off power turning circle is. Its a sig edition SX off the RCtv bloke

[Chris Doughty]

after going the other way (from 10th to 8th scale) I can safely say that all 10th scale cars are 'fragile' in comparison.

I havent broken a sinlge thing on my 8th scale car.

I would also like to see more robust 10th scale cars generally.

[dave g]

have to agree chris,the 8ths just seem to have the balance of strength to weight ratio just right,when you have a crash with an 8th you expect it to be ok..with a 10th you kinda cringe as its rolling over.

[Big G]

I've been driving the B44 for a while now and apart from the front wishbones everything else seems pretty solid.

[bondy]

Originally Posted by DoughtyUK.net

after going the other way (from 10th to 8th scale) I can safely say that all 10th scale cars are 'fragile' in comparison.

I havent broken a sinlge thing on my 8th scale car.

I would also like to see more robust 10th scale cars generally.

Tahts because its an "LRP" Chris "Tough as Tanks"

[bigred5765]

Originally Posted by BRS

I'm sure the Cat SX isnt weak by 10th car standards but I've broken more bits on this in less than a month that I've ever done in 8th LOL

1 x shock shaft
3 x front wishbones
10 x m3 screws
1 x front blocks (are they made from furniture grade alloy?)
1 x front hinge pin

Sure the extreme cold had alot to do with it, that and confined space under a covered bit of stable block and a faulty futaba 2.4module (started unpairing after about 10min use)

Just thought I'd give you a laugh by sharing that.
Coming from 8th it seems weird that these 10th cars are having weight added too them by most why isnt someone making a stronger ie heavier car in the first place?
Seems a little too easy to wipe a corner off these things as they are. (I know its my fault)

Do these cars have much lock normaly I was fairly surprised at how wide the off power turning circle is. Its a sig edition SX off the RCtv bloke

1/10th are slight more fragile than 1/8th, there is a easy way though not to break parts.















DONT BLOODY CRASH

[BRS]

Originally Posted by bigred5765

1/10th are slight more fragile than 1/8th, there is a easy way though not to break parts.
DONT BLOODY CRASH

Fair comment but its a bit more than a slight difference in strength, everything I've done would not have broke my MBX6 thats 100% sure

[discostu]

get the steggers brace that will solve the broken block and hinge pin and possibly the screws which means you would have only broken 3xwishbones that seems pretty good

how have you manged to break 10 m3 screws ive been racing for twenty years in all sorts of classes and dont think i ever had that many broken screws in total.

[DaSloth]

But when you consider 8th and 10th scale are similar speeds if not 10th being faster(?), yet 10th has much less material because it's smaller, its reasonable to expect it will break easier.

[David Church]

The simple answer is not to hit things! Sounds easy but its not, and if you have come from 8th where you can smash into anything, it may take you awhile to get your head around tenth

[Jonesy]

I can vouch not only for the CAT but most 1/10th buggies feeling fragile over the winter months especially with the cold weather. I race at Oswestry Indoors each week which is a fairly tight and quick track but as we race on a showground there is no heating and the temperature outside is the temperaturn inside!! We ran last week while the temperature was -7!

I have managed to run through a number of wishbones, front shock mounts and a couple of shock shafts in recent times. However it's not the parts it's the driver shaking in the freezing conditions

[BRS]

Originally Posted by discostu

get the steggers brace that will solve the broken block and hinge pin and possibly the screws which means you would have only broken 3xwishbones that seems pretty good

how have you manged to break 10 m3 screws ive been racing for twenty years in all sorts of classes and dont think i ever had that many broken screws in total.

I'm waiting for a brace to arrive in the post that should help alot i hope.

The M3 screws havent broken as such just got bent in those front blocks. Doesnt take much to bend them it seems, but a brace should stop that as well.

[discostu]

yeah it does i made a carbon one for my cat and broke numarouse wishbones but never bent a scew hanger or hinge pin defently worth it

[Brodie-72X]

i'd have to say that i've had truggies hit me full noodle in practice, & they break! i was suprised to say the least as my SX was fine. i have broken parts on the Cat SX, but normally when i break, it deserves to break. As for the screws, update to the new 4mm screws, they seem to do the trick.

[BRS]

Originally Posted by David Church

The simple answer is not to hit things! Sounds easy but its not, and if you have come from 8th where you can smash into anything, it may take you awhile to get your head around tenth

Hahaha I'm not that bad David I can wheel an 8th car pretty good. I think the main factor is a balistically quick car in a small space with unmoveable objects for track markers.
I have a jump into a 2m wide section (wall on one side stable wall on other) were I land brake and turn 180* and back out. A stable door sticks out 10mm clipped that last night and snapped another front wishbone DOH...

If you get an 8th wishbone in your hand you can twist flex it a bit these 10th ones feel like concrete, no give at all.

Sure one I get the brace on and go to a real track its not going to be a problem.

I did read an article by that J Quagraine on neo that was interesting:

So what, why are people depressed here? Well there are three main reasons:
1. Well the biggest reason is global warming. You see, us humans haven't successfully warmed up the globe enough yet. It's still way too cold!
2. ...And this makes it impossible to drive 1/8th scale nitro offroad cars on dirt tracks in the sun.
3. And because of this, we are forced to race 1/10th electric offroad cars indoors, on carpet, or astroturf.


10th is depressing, because as if racing on super high traction wasn't bad enough, coming from 8th, these 10th cars just seem a bit too lame. They are small and fiddly, and fall apart by just looking at them in the wrong way, for long enough. I probably shouldn't write this, as one day JQ Products may produce a 10th car, and I would look like a complete idiot, but I really do think that all the cars are way too weak.

One 4WD car I saw, overshot a jump, landed flat, and the entire front right corner exploded off the car. Thank god for brushless and LiPo, now all the time in the pits can be spent fixing the cars. It may be that the only way to make a profit on these race oriented 10th scales, where the market is much smaller that for example 8th scale, is to make them weak, in order to sell spares. Its abit of a conspiracy theory but if no one makes a strong car, then they can all just stay like they are. I'm sure I will find out if JQ Products ever does make a 10th scale.



Another depressing thing is drivability. I think there are a few serious flaws that make the class less enjoyable. 2WD is great! The 2WD cars really work well, and are a lot of fun to drive, they handle the bumps smoothly, jump well, and turn surprisingly well. Every time I drive a 2WD after a long break, I'm pleasantly surprised at how hard I can push the car without doing donuts, or loosing control in some other flashy fashion.

So since 2WD cars are so good, it's equally surprising to find that the 4WD cars are basically ****. Try driving punched, try driving through bumps on power, try doing anything other than for example Jared Tebo would do, and you will fail, and need a brush and pan to collect the remains after you rolled it, because of loosing control after running over an ant at speed.


1/10th 4WD Electric Offroad cars were designed back when batteries were still a major issue in racing. Runtime and power, it was a constant battle to get best of both. Team drivers got the best packs, so they could get the most power, and still last for 5 minutes. In 4WD, specially on high traction, not running out of juice was an issue. This is when the design for the current crop of 4WD cars was done. This led to a few compromises.

1. First of all, the cars needed to be light. So light in fact, that strength is sacrificed. Drive a 1:8th scale into a wall, and it might not even break. Drive a 1:10th into long grass and the arms will fall off.
2. Drivetrain needed to be as light as possible, and this led to 2 things. First of all, ball differentials are used, as they are slightly lighter, they operate more smoothly than gear diffs, and I assume, they are more efficient, although I don’t know if that is an issue at all. But the fact that they are light, and small is. The other thing is, even though the car is 4WD, it only has 2 differentials. The centre diff was eliminated. This saves a bunch of weight.

Some of you may think, but it has a slipper, so there is no need for a centre diff! Wrong, the slipper acts as a clutch, just like the clutch on a 1:8th scale, not as a differential. Some others may think I don't know what I am talking about, surely there is no centre diff, because its a performance advantage! Well, yes it used to be a performance advantage, but not anymore. In the oldendays when batteries hardly lasted for 5minutes, lets say someone had 3 gear diffs in his car, including a centre diff.

The track is rough, and technical. Race starts, and he dominates, he can accelerate harder, the car handles the bumps better, it is easier to drive, and has smoother steering. He is going to win for sure, until at about 4minutes, his cells dump. At about 4:30, with 30s to go, the guy in 2nd, running a plank with 2 ball diffs, overtakes and wins. Plank with ball diffs was the way to go, no doubt. Any added weight in the drivetrain, or excess wheel spin was a problem. However, now things have changed, batteries last for 15 minutes, there is no longer a need to maximise power, or maximise runtime, the cars a way overpowered, and drivers add weight to their cars, and reduce power, in an effort to make them drivable. No no no, that is all wrong. How about bringing the car design to this century instead?

Here I have outlined some ideas, all of which I think will happen in the near future:
1. Adding a centre diff, will make these 4WD beasts a lot easier to drive, which will make them faster, and more consistent. They will also be a lot more FUN to drive, as they are more forgiving, and they don’t need to be driven with a brain surgeon's accuracy. If there is still one single person out there doubting my reasoning, here is one last example to illustrate my point. Pick any 1/8th buggy. Replace the centre diff with a solid axle, or put 1,000,000 diff oil in it. Then put 1000wt oil in the front and rear diffs. Ohh and another thing, in 4WD the diameter of the rear tyres, when glued on the wheels, is larger than the diameter of the front tyres. So go ahead and put a smaller crown gear on the rear diff of your 1/8th. Now go to an offroad track, and attempt to drive.....My point exactly. It will suck, and you will not enjoy yourself, as much as the last time, when your buggy was drivable.

2. Gear diffs are the future. I think maybe back when RC tyres were made of plastic, one could feel the difference between a silky smooth ball diff, and a slightly more, not so silky gear diff. Those days are over, the cars and tracks have traction, and a ball diff just doesn’t cut it anymore. It needs constant love and care, and its just so pointless if you ask me. I hate fiddling with those things. It drives me nuts. Not to mention, that you are constantly running “1000 oil” in your diffs, and no matter what the track conditions, you cant make the car more stable by going up to 7000 in the front.

3. Tyres. One day, someone will make new 1/10th tyres. Someone that does not care about the “Industry Standard”. They will make the front and rear tyres equal in diameter, and make them balloon much less, they will make them with a 1/8th scale style gluing bead, and the largest possible rim. And hex attachment, no more pins.

You saw it here first.
Over and out.
JQ

[lochness42]

Originally Posted by BRS

1. Adding a centre diff, will make these 4WD beasts a lot easier to drive, which will make them faster, and more consistent.

They are banned by rules if I'm right - so you have to propose new rules to BRCA, EFRA and IFMAR to convince any manufacturer to make one