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  #101  
Old 30-01-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spud31 View Post
i would put the standard rear uprights on to reduce the toe.
In position 1 put a 10 gram weight to help the iniital steering.
http://www.trfracing.co.uk/page_1265126433672.html this is lees setup from taplow.
He runs a shorter front link than you to give more steering, id also try front pins ior if there too much yellow mini spikes rather than normal staggers.
Cut staggers may also work
anything other then staggers make the car to twitchy . mini spikes will try them!
i will try the 10gm in position one and 25degrease C hubs and see how it goes !
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  #102  
Old 10-02-2012
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Hi Lee,
Could you post up a Vega TRF201 setup when you get a chance.
Also what extra bits are required on top of the TRF201 kit?

Thanks

Rob
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  #103  
Old 10-02-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robh View Post
Hi Lee,
Could you post up a Vega TRF201 setup when you get a chance.

Thanks

Rob

Lees 201 setups .......

http://trfracing.co.uk/page_1265126433672.html


Quote:
Originally Posted by robh View Post
Hi Lee,

Also what extra bits are required on top of the TRF201 kit?

Thanks

Rob
Option parts for the 201 can be found here ....

http://trfracing.co.uk/page_1266421668280.html
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  #104  
Old 10-02-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich D View Post
Lees 201 setups .......

http://trfracing.co.uk/page_1265126433672.html




Option parts for the 201 can be found here ....

http://trfracing.co.uk/page_1266421668280.html
I think he was talking about the VEGA 201 conversion, not regular TRF201 setups / option parts...
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  #105  
Old 10-02-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mof View Post
I think he was talking about the VEGA 201 conversion, not regular TRF201 setups / option parts...
, must learn to read !
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  #106  
Old 19-02-2012
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Any luck with the Vega setup ?
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  #107  
Old 29-02-2012
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Hi Lee was curious if you could give a decent starting set up for A Vega 201 V2 for a tight carpet track? thanks
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  #108  
Old 08-03-2012
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Default 502 Developments

Hi Lee,

I just noted the Rude bits post for the Camber mounts you're using on the 502X:

http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95536

One of the pictures is a close up shot looking at the back of the front shock tower. It appears that you are using a 'wedge' or 'spacer' between the shock tower and mount place on the gear box cover. This 'wedge' would serve to move the front tower forward, further does it contain an angle so it lays the shock tower back at the same rake angle as the front suspension arms?

If so it would seem you have solved an issue that has been raised elsewhere on these forums.

The reason I ask is that I'm comtemplating buying either a 502X or 511x. Here in Australia the 502X looks the most sane choice as the diffs are sealed and our tracks are mostly outdoor and dusty, however I have been hesitant as there has been much discussion around the problems of the front end geometry of the 502x compared to the 511x.

The Australain National titles are on here in Sydney in early April, would be cool to see you here. I don't know if a Tamiya has taken a major title in Australia ever?

Cheers
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  #109  
Old 15-03-2012
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Right,

Hi guys, its been a while since i looked on here as i have been moving house and all sorts, so.......
you will find a starter set up on LMR website ( www.l-m-racing.co.uk ) for the 201 vegaV2, soon i will put my EOS set up online.

David:

this is just a spacer, but people have made a wedge....i find the spacer works well enough for me. i think you need to move it in total about 5mm to make it free up!

Also look for the new LMR/Rudebits camber link mods! these are available now... just not on my website yet, email me if interested!

Lee
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  #110  
Old 23-04-2012
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Default 511 and 502

Hi Lee,

Congratualtions on your recent successes with both cars and the Vega 201!

I'm in two minds about which one to purchase to run along side my 201! What are the underlying decisions you make to decide whether to use the 502 or 511.
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  #111  
Old 23-07-2012
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This might be obvious, but what battery hold-down nuts are you using here? Thanks!

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  #112  
Old 24-07-2012
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Hi Lee,

Looking at the setup for the Vega you have been using MR oils in the shocks,
what is the equivalent for Losi oil please?

cheers
Ken
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  #113  
Old 03-08-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ruf View Post
This might be obvious, but what battery hold-down nuts are you using here? Thanks!

Can anyone help me identify these thumb screws? Thanks!
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  #114  
Old 16-08-2012
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Default Springs

Lee,
I have noticed you use everything from Tamiya blue to Kyosho Big bore and regular Kyosho springs.

What do you recommend for the high traction US clay tracks? I did notice the Tamiya springs tend to rub the bodies.

Should I just purchase the Tamiya spring kit F/R and the Kyosho RB5 yellow/red/blue F/R and go play?
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  #115  
Old 20-08-2012
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To be honest, as you say i have tried most springs now and the TRF ones still feel like one of the best...
The X gear springs are good on the 4wd, but i prefer the TRF springs on the 201



Blue rear - Black front
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  #116  
Old 20-08-2012
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Those are TRF thumb screws.
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  #117  
Old 20-08-2012
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Default Springs

I ordered a few sets of the X-Gear XSB to try out.
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  #118  
Old 02-09-2012
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Lee prefers his 511 but he wont publicly admit it because Tamiya stopped making 511 kits and still has to sell whatever 502 kits are left. 502 is still very good but I think AE has the best overall 4WD shaft 1/10 buggy design at the moment. 511 is tops!

Maybe Tamiya will come out with the next generation belt driven 1/10 TRF buggy to continue in the 511's footsteps, but who knows? Actually, Lee would probably know. But with the introduction of the DB02 it doesnt look as such. I'm holding on to my 511 until spares are no longer available.
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  #119  
Old 02-09-2012
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Default 502X it is!

I finally purchased a 502X from Japan. The store still a 511, one of each in fact! I purchased their last 502X. It came down to maintenance. The 502 presented less diff rebuilds due to sealed gear boxes. Here in Australia our tracks are all dirt and I'd been there and done that with belts in Yokomo's in the 1990's.

If I had the cash I would have ordered the 511X as well and stored it way. I think they'll become a NIB rarity in the near future or built it for display purposes, as it looks like a nice car to build. I enjoy building new kits just as much as racing them!

The 502X:http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_m...5790&sid=33946

Any 502X tips Lee for hard packed clay with a dusty surface?

P.S. - Loving the LMR wing on my 502X looks better than the TRF version and is a lot tougher!
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  #120  
Old 02-09-2012
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Default 201X Extended Chassis - rear Motor

Hi Lee,

When you run a 201X in rear motor configuration, what length chassis do you use. I've noted +6mm and +8mm versions amongst various TRF drivers.

Have the team settled on what is best all round? Will TRF release a version for the club racer so we don't have to buy two chassis and start cutting!
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