HONG NOR X1-CRT

[piggy]

HI ALL,

BOUGHT A HONG NOR TRUGGY A COUPLE OF DAYS AGO AND LOVE IT, IV COME FROM LECY CARS AND THIS IS ACE,

ITS HAD ABOUT 8 TANKS THRU IT MESSED AROUND A BIT AND GOD IT FLIES,SEEMS OK TOMORROW I WILL START TUNING.

YET I WAS DOING SOME JUMPING AND IVE SNAPPED THE REAR BRACE,AND BENT THE REAR DRIVE SHAFT, DONE A BODGE AND BEEN OUT PLAYING AGAIN.

HOP-UPS,
IVE ORDERED SOME STONE GAURDS,
Z BRACE,
CNC FRONT & REAR STRENGTHING BARS THINGS?

WHAT OTHER THINGS DO THE TRUGGYS REQUIRE?
DOES THE BODY REQUIRE CUTTING AS I CANT GET TO THE PULL STARTER WITH BODY ON?
IS THERE A CONVERSION SO I CAN START IT ANOTHER WAY?
DOES THE BODY REQUIRE CUTTING FOR COOLING?
ORDERED SOME DIFF OIL AS CAR SEEMS TO SIT ON ITS REAR, WILL DIFF OIL HELP?
I NOTICED SHOCKS ARE WOUND TO THE TOP WHERE DO MOST PEOPLE WIND THEM TOO?
ALSO IVE NOTICED THE FACTORY SERVOS DONT SEEM TO BE VERY STRONG?

SORRY FOR SO MANY QUESTIONS, ANY HELP WILL BE MOST USEFULL.

I WANT TO START RACING BUT FOR NOW JUST BLASTING AROUND.

CHEERS STU

[jimmy]

Hey buddy, is this the RTR version I assume ?
I reviewed this myself for RACER and thought it was excellent. The rear brace is really the only must have I think though - on a race track maybe you can get away with it but certainly if you are playing and having a few jumps you'll need one asap.
I was going to make my own but ended up getting stu woods dad to make one and its great..

Diff oil - depends on your track maybe but I was advised by Jamie Booth to use 30k / 30k / 10k (front, centre, rear). This made things a load better and stopped it leaning back so hard.


Stone guards again - I got those before racing the truck and was glad I did as they can be called MUD guards too.

Youve got to cut the shell for cooling yes!
see in this photo
http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/crtracerreview/bigimages/hn20.jpg
Maybe even bigger than that. Also you can cut the side window (on the engine side) to make filling the fuel tank up easier.

For starting the car - I never made a hole but i guess you could. I now have a starter box and I think thats the way to go.

The shocks are a bit soft as they come, I think they need a harder oil but Ive not done mine yet - but yes definately wind the adjusters down a bit as it sits a bit low otherwise. My truggy is standard apart from the rear brace I think and stone guards etc - and its awesome on the race track, absolutely great.

I found the standard steering servo to be OK - the throttle was a bit weak on the brakes I found. But for my first race I moved the steering servo to the throttle, and put a high torque KO in for the steering.
If you are using the AA receiver pack then ditch it right away and get a 5 cell receiver pack, I have the Nosram 1400 in mine and it gives a lot more power to the servos and is a lot more reliable.

[woOdy]

That brace is bling bling

[piggy]

hi there fitted all the trick bits today, fitted the stone gaurds, got a 1400 hump pack,seems to steer and brake harder will try it all out tomorrow,

now while its in bits im going to giff it some diff oil, how on earth do you do this, sorry but struggling with the manual!

ive also noticed that the rear shocks dont raise up very quickly but kind of stay down?

cheers stu

[dave g]

you have to strip the gearbox down to remove the diff unit,then dissasemble it with the 4 screws thru it.

if the shocks are staying down you either need a few more ride height spacers on the shock body(just above the spring) or the springs are too soft,oil too thick.

dave

[jimmy]

Shocks should be fine - wind the adjusters down a bit, mine are down about 11mm on the rear and about 5mm on the front.

Heres what the diff looks like (this is the rear) but they are all pretty much the same. A big grub screw comes out to let the pin out at the bottom and do you can take it all apart.
Clean all the grease off and then fill them with diff oil.. done!

[piggy]

cheers for all advice car is going loads better.

cheers stu