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  #121  
Old 10-03-2011
mattybucks mattybucks is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by karlmark1 View Post
Hey everyone,i finally got around to purchasing the fibrelyte front & rear shock mounts and they are looking sweet,has any one got any suggestions how fit a body mount to the rear of the car.
many thanks Mark
Get an overtray if you can and e velcro
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  #122  
Old 11-03-2011
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I gather the under tray is no longer available from Mardave. Does anyone have one I could buy?
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  #123  
Old 11-03-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Digital View Post
I gather the under tray is no longer available from Mardave. Does anyone have one I could buy?
Yes,i heard that they're no longer available,can't say i've ever seen any on the auction sites either.
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  #124  
Old 11-03-2011
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Cut the sides of a body and attach them to the chassis.
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  #125  
Old 13-03-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by karlmark1 View Post
Yes,i heard that they're no longer available,can't say i've ever seen any on the auction sites either.

Chris Wilko at Mardave say's he's never done a Cobra undertray for as long as he's owned the firm although they're still listed in the spares(I wanted one for mine).

I "found" some suitable aluminium angle ("L" shaped,10mm x 15mm)in the scrap bin at work.
Cut to 205mm long and then cut at the bend in the Cobra's chassis,I've drilled and tapped it(3mm x 0.5mm).
Then drilled the Cobra chassis,countersunk it from underneath and fixed the angle on using 3mm c/s set screws and added some stick on velcro pads.

Ok,it's adds a bit of weight,but the springy Cobra body now fits something like tight and follows the shape of the chassis quite well.
For the rear mount I used a Carson t/c body mount,shortened it,drilled and tapped it and mounted it between the gearbox and battery holder,then stuck a bit of velcro to it so that the rear end has a bit of support.

I'll take a pitcher or two tomorrow and post 'em up so that folks can see
how I've done it.

Mark
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  #126  
Old 14-03-2011
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Here we go fellows,if you want to know more just ask.

Mark
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Cobra chassis 001.jpg (299.4 KB, 98 views)
File Type: jpg Cobra chassis 002.jpg (261.4 KB, 102 views)
File Type: jpg Cobra chassis 003.jpg (188.6 KB, 70 views)
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  #127  
Old 14-03-2011
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Interesting idea. You don't by any chance have measurements, or better still a drawing of the side guards you made do you?

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Here we go fellows,if you want to know more just ask.

Mark
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  #128  
Old 15-03-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Digital View Post
Interesting idea. You don't by any chance have measurements, or better still a drawing of the side guards you made do you?
The ally angle is 10mm x 15mm in an L shape.

Cut it into 2 x 205mm lengths.

Place it onto the chassis at the rear end,shortest side down on the chassis.

The chassis side runs straight from the rear end for 82mm,mark the angle
at that point and cut the short side down to the bottom of the angle but
NOT right through the long (15mm)side.

Place it back on the chassis and gently bend it into line with the forward edge of the chassis.
You might need to notch the ally a touch more so that it can close up the gap a little more if needs be.
Once you're happy,mark the angle and drill it,place the angle back on the chassis,mark that through the holes in the angle and then drill the chassis.

I tapped the holes in the angle to 3mm and countersunk the underside of the chassis holes to suit my set screws.

If you're going to do it like that then drill the angle with a 2.5mm bit and the chassis with a 3mm bit.
The 2.5mm bit should give you enough "meat" to tap them out.
Use a good 3mm bit for the chassis and run it through two or three times.
That'll give you enough "clearance" for the 3mm screws to go through.

I also gave the bottom of the angle a wipe of silicone sealant before I fixed them to the chassis,just to give a bit of sealing.

Mark
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  #129  
Old 23-07-2011
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Just picked up one of these from evilbay. Was thinking of using these shocks on it do you guys know if they'll fit??

http://shop.conrad-uk.com/hobbies/mo...rs/237479.html
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  #130  
Old 25-07-2011
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Kristian Wiles car was a work of art in the 90's and I borrowed it for an event just to see if it was any good. I like twitch city steerting but this was understeering yet easy to drive and also super stable and very consistent on carpet (with CF chassis, CF shock mounts, original RC10 steering, B2 gearbox or Worlds RC10 latest version gearbox, associated shocks and a 10 double motor) and explains why he made 7th in the uk carpet championships. Great car.
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  #131  
Old 25-07-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Welshy40 View Post
Kristian Wiles car was a work of art in the 90's and I borrowed it for an event just to see if it was any good. I like twitch city steerting but this was understeering yet easy to drive and also super stable and very consistent on carpet (with CF chassis, CF shock mounts, original RC10 steering, B2 gearbox or Worlds RC10 latest version gearbox, associated shocks and a 10 double motor) and explains why he made 7th in the uk carpet championships. Great car.
Lee Romang put one in the A at a National, the car was pretty standard as well.
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  #132  
Old 26-07-2011
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any pics yet of any team cars ?. lee romang, kristian wiles, steve pole all had different spec cars but unable too get pics myself. Anybody help please.
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  #133  
Old 27-07-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adey View Post
any pics yet of any team cars ?. lee romang, kristian wiles, steve pole all had different spec cars but unable too get pics myself. Anybody help please.
Kristians was a looker but no pics. I will have to ask if he still has it, that is if I can find his contact details..
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  #134  
Old 31-07-2011
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i had some decals made for my cobra by a local sign company for my new 1 colour body. I may change the carbon chassis for a standard one and try it outdoor again. Sorry about the crap pics
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File Type: jpg New cobra1.jpg (204.9 KB, 74 views)
File Type: jpg New cobra2.jpg (236.4 KB, 67 views)
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  #135  
Old 02-08-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adey View Post
i had some decals made for my cobra by a local sign company for my new 1 colour body. I may change the carbon chassis for a standard one and try it outdoor again. Sorry about the crap pics
Great looking car Adey. What tyres you got on there mate??
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  #136  
Old 02-08-2011
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thats a worn set of schumacher mini pins as the car has been used on carpet. It has a carbon chassis but i would like a carbon tub chassis instead for it. Fibre lyte may have a call soon.lol
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  #137  
Old 03-08-2011
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That looks really well mate.

I'm still looking for an old pair of slipper clutch plates for mine so
that I can have a good go at getting the diff and gearbox sorted.
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  #138  
Old 03-08-2011
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i got a prototype gearbox. It has a idler with a alloy insert in it and a diff modified to accept rc10b4 diff rings and thrust bearing. It never let me down but the diff halves wear a bit faster than i would like.
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  #139  
Old 04-08-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adey View Post
i got a prototype gearbox. It has a idler with a alloy insert in it and a diff modified to accept rc10b4 diff rings and thrust bearing. It never let me down but the diff halves wear a bit faster than i would like.
Yes,I know you've got a prototype gearbox,you've mentioned it before

How is the diff.modified to take the diff rings mate?
Has it had some material machined off the faces of the diff.plates?

Mine's idler will be sorted asa I can get one of the machinists at work
to bore it and turn up an insert.
My 'box is fully ballraced,it's just that I can't get the diff. to hold it's
adjustment.
I can set it up static,but within a few minutes of running it's gone
slack and is slipping like hell.
I have two sets of diff halves and one is worse than the other.

Mark
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  #140  
Old 04-08-2011
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i modified the faces of the diff halves then drilled the diff outputs to accept the b4 thrust bearing. The main problem with this is that its alot of work and the diff halves wear out fast as they are too soft. Best advice is to modify them then get them hardned. I did that and it was much better. Hope that helps
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