Questions - Page 5

Lee Martin · #81 10-01-2012

i have not had much chance to test gear diffs....
try 10 front
5 rear.

Lee

Netmav · #82 18-01-2012

Hi Lee.

Congratulations on the Area51 4WD win! NICE!

I would like to ask you a favour, if you don't mind?
We're having a hard time finding spare A-parts (Gearbox tree) for the 502x, so I was wondering if you could talk to someone at Tamiya, and ask them about this?
Why isn't it possible to get essential spare parts for the 502x?
Or maybe you know something about this already?

I know this is a long shot, but we're getting a little desperate here in Norway now, as the first race of the Nationals cup is in a few weeks..

Thanks mate.
Keep up the good work!

BR,
Martin Stensland
NORWAY

dobber · #83 18-01-2012

502x question.

Im struggling with ride height. I see your setup for taplow was 18mm. Currently mine is sitting at about 26mm. How do i get it lower and sit near that illusive 18mm.

Question about diffs too. How tight do you set them and is there any deffinative way of setting them up. I think that my diffs are too tight but as i have no reference point to work from im kind of stuck. I slackened off my rear diff just a tad the other week and it made the rear of the car spin round when cornering. Any tips of hintrs on these two would be great.

Cheers.

Even better than that why not pop along to Surrey & Hants Radio Controlled Car Club one thursday night

Lee Martin · #84 18-01-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by dobber

502x question.

Im struggling with ride height. I see your setup for taplow was 18mm. Currently mine is sitting at about 26mm. How do i get it lower and sit near that illusive 18mm.

Question about diffs too. How tight do you set them and is there any deffinative way of setting them up. I think that my diffs are too tight but as i have no reference point to work from im kind of stuck. I slackened off my rear diff just a tad the other week and it made the rear of the car spin round when cornering. Any tips of hintrs on these two would be great.

Cheers.

Even better than that why not pop along to Surrey & Hants Radio Controlled Car Club one thursday night

I will try to pop along soon!
ride height...well your car could be running very light? i have aruond 60g of rudebits in the back of mine.
You will also need to cut the rear spring down to get the required height. Take 2 coils off it.
Then you should be fine!

Diff tightness.... its difficult to explain, i will do a video soon, just make sure the front is tighter than the rear and neither are slipping!

Lee

Rich D · #85 18-01-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by dobber

502x question.

Im struggling with ride height. I see your setup for taplow was 18mm. Currently mine is sitting at about 26mm. How do i get it lower and sit near that illusive 18mm.

Question about diffs too. How tight do you set them and is there any deffinative way of setting them up. I think that my diffs are too tight but as i have no reference point to work from im kind of stuck. I slackened off my rear diff just a tad the other week and it made the rear of the car spin round when cornering. Any tips of hintrs on these two would be great.

Cheers.

Even better than that why not pop along to Surrey & Hants Radio Controlled Car Club one thursday night

To set the diffs, this is my method.......

Car facing away from you, hold left rear wheel with left hand. Hold spur gear with left thumb. Turn right rear wheel forward slowly at first still holding the left rear wheel and jamming the spur. You should see the slipper plates turning. If they arent then either your diff is too slack or your slipper is set too tight.
Its a balance that you`ll get a feel for. When its set right, then the diff action should be smooth but it shouldnt slip when you test it on the bench.

For the front, just face the car nose towards you and repeat the method above. I try turning the right wheel slowly at first until im happy that it`s not slipping. Once its somewhere near, i turn it more quickly, kind of "jerk" - this is more like the motor would turn the transmission. If you hear it slip, just tighten it 1/8 of a turn further.

As Lee said, set the front so that the diff action is a fraction tighter than the rear.

Im sure he`ll correct me if im talking crap but this is how i set my 511 diffs. I only have to rebuild them a couple of times a season. I think that those who say their tamiya diffs didnt last before becoming gritty must be either running them a little too loose, setting the slipper too tight, or not using diff covers to stop the dirt. Another good tip is to use a shock foam compensator within the outdrive to prevent dirt from getting into the thrust race.

Rememeber black grease for the thrust race and clear silicone grease for the diff balls/plates.

HTH

MHeadling · #86 18-01-2012

Lee I noticed the springs on your cars are black from the Area51 meeting, are these still Tamiya springs or a different brand?

Did you paint of dye them if they are the Tamiya ones?

Looks cool btw!

msxmre · #87 19-01-2012

Mark I think in Jimmys report he mentions that the springs are X Gear springs or something along those lines. Check the 4wd coverage of Area 51.
Scotty....

MHeadling · #88 19-01-2012

Oh ok cheers Scotty, I'll have a read.........

jimmy · #89 19-01-2012

http://www.xgear.jp/

Chris · #90 19-01-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimmy

http://www.xgear.jp/

Which spring rate? (F/R)

5ohTwoX · #91 20-01-2012

Lee did you leave Tamiya? I just read u signed with Mugen Seiki, congratulations on your new sponsership but it will be sad to see you leave as well.

Ross · #92 20-01-2012

He's staying with Tamiya for 10th.

http://www.neobuggy.net/modules/news/

5ohTwoX · #93 20-01-2012

Oh ok, that's a relief!

Thanks for clearing that up.

dobber · #94 20-01-2012

Cheers for the reply Lee. I'll give a few bit a try for next week. Would be good to see your diff setup guide when done

Thanks Rich D for the guide on diffs too

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lee Martin

I will try to pop along soon!
ride height...well your car could be running very light? i have aruond 60g of rudebits in the back of mine.
You will also need to cut the rear spring down to get the required height. Take 2 coils off it.
Then you should be fine!

Diff tightness.... its difficult to explain, i will do a video soon, just make sure the front is tighter than the rear and neither are slipping!

Lee

DavidAMS · #95 27-01-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rich D

To set the diffs, this is my method.......

Car facing away from you, hold left rear wheel with left hand. Hold spur gear with left thumb. Turn right rear wheel forward slowly at first still holding the left rear wheel and jamming the spur. You should see the slipper plates turning. If they arent then either your diff is too slack or your slipper is set too tight.
Its a balance that you`ll get a feel for. When its set right, then the diff action should be smooth but it shouldnt slip when you test it on the bench.

For the front, just face the car nose towards you and repeat the method above. I try turning the right wheel slowly at first until im happy that it`s not slipping. Once its somewhere near, i turn it more quickly, kind of "jerk" - this is more like the motor would turn the transmission. If you hear it slip, just tighten it 1/8 of a turn further.

As Lee said, set the front so that the diff action is a fraction tighter than the rear.

Im sure he`ll correct me if im talking crap but this is how i set my 511 diffs. I only have to rebuild them a couple of times a season. I think that those who say their tamiya diffs didnt last before becoming gritty must be either running them a little too loose, setting the slipper too tight, or not using diff covers to stop the dirt. Another good tip is to use a shock foam compensator within the outdrive to prevent dirt from getting into the thrust race.

Rememeber black grease for the thrust race and clear silicone grease for the diff balls/plates.

HTH

awesome tip for setting the diff, tried it and it works great, no more slipping diffs for me!

thanks Rich

@ dobber i use 5mm limiters in the rear shocks with 2 coils cut to get the height to 18mm
using 5400 60c ip saddles with no weight.

guinness · #96 28-01-2012

Lee i just watch ur video interview at neobuggy ,nice to see u staying with the tamiya 1/10 cars.
you give me some tips about my 201 on ur last visit to Taplow RC,are u coming back any time soon? as i want pick your brain again due to the fact that the 201 is getting on my nerves ( don't want really switch brand ) because the car is pushing all the time on/off power.
thanx

spud31 · #97 28-01-2012

Are u running the under servo weight 85g , as that transformed my 201 an stopped it pushing.

Rich D · #98 28-01-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by dobber

Thanks Rich D for the guide on diffs too

Quote:

Originally Posted by DavidAMS

awesome tip for setting the diff, tried it and it works great, no more slipping diffs for me!

thanks Rich

Happy to help

guinness · #99 28-01-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by spud31

Are u running the under servo weight 85g , as that transformed my 201 an stopped it pushing.

Im using the 72g under servo weigh.
This is my setup
http://db.tt/uSf8RbFH

spud31 · #**100** 28-01-2012

i would put the standard rear uprights on to reduce the toe.
In position 1 put a 10 gram weight to help the iniital steering.
http://www.trfracing.co.uk/page_1265126433672.html this is lees setup from taplow.
He runs a shorter front link than you to give more steering, id also try front pins ior if there too much yellow mini spikes rather than normal staggers.
Cut staggers may also work