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  #5381  
Old 21-02-2017
alcyon alcyon is offline
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Originally Posted by isobarik View Post
So rama the anser would be that you have to make an

B4slipperlayshaftwithpinnedpulleysfor the lazer zxr

Mvh isobarik
naah i am gonna try one piece double pulleys.
The side near to spur will have full length splines, because it is possible to do so here on the layshaft.
As for the one way end, the splines must be shorter but i have lengthened the splines just a tiny bit.
There is also a 4,5mm thick guide in between to take up the gasp left by removal of thrust bearing.
I am however unsure of the pulley spline size and accurate shape so i guess this will have to be done a few prints before getting right.
Another idea i have is to make this pulley 1 tooth bigger, 15tooth, it should fit well as the belts are a tad loose anyway.
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File Type: jpg 14 Tooth Lazer Double pulley-1.JPG (172.3 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg 14 Tooth Lazer Double pulley-2.JPG (158.8 KB, 7 views)

Last edited by alcyon; 21-02-2017 at 02:30 PM.
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  #5382  
Old 21-02-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rob m View Post
Is this what you remember James?
I've had it like this for 3 years now and still on origional gearbox casing . It's had a few bad knocks aswell!
if this could be added into the design it would be spot on, adds load of strengthening.
Yes, thats it. Simple yet very effective.
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  #5383  
Old 21-02-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isobarik View Post
So rama the anser would be that you have to make an

B4slipperlayshaftwithpinnedpulleysfor the lazer zxr

Mvh isobarik
Mmm dont think its going to be that easy as its harder to balance. Easier to do the pulley separately or as per Ramas optima design make a pulley with the same design so it bolts to the layshaft for the rear pulley only.
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Last edited by Welshy40; 21-02-2017 at 09:43 PM.
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  #5384  
Old 21-02-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alcyon View Post
naah i am gonna try one piece double pulleys.
The side near to spur will have full length splines, because it is possible to do so here on the layshaft.
As for the one way end, the splines must be shorter but i have lengthened the splines just a tiny bit.
There is also a 4,5mm thick guide in between to take up the gasp left by removal of thrust bearing.
I am however unsure of the pulley spline size and accurate shape so i guess this will have to be done a few prints before getting right.
Another idea i have is to make this pulley 1 tooth bigger, 15tooth, it should fit well as the belts are a tad loose anyway.
For the people who dont use oneways then yes its a good idea but dont forget the thrust bearing isnt flush so may find you will need to make fractionally wider.

As you know im a one way fan so do like your idea on adding a tooth, yes for nicads it didnt work but with brushless it should make it better especially down the straight. It should take fractional torque away giving more control, possibly may suit the dirt surface racers as well due to this.

Your rear gear box looks stunning. I would like to add a lower tensioner like my runner but is on the edge of the underside so a little bulge will come through so will do some measurements when I get some more time and let you know.

The address is the correct one if you still have it but will pm you it again. I will eventually get onto whats app but will do hopefully within a month or so when I get a new phone.
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Last edited by Welshy40; 21-02-2017 at 09:19 PM.
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  #5385  
Old 22-02-2017
alcyon alcyon is offline
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Actually looking at the layshaft and one way, I think we can make two different pulleys, one for one way (shorter spline), and one for rear belt (longest spline). Externally they will be the same. I think this will solve the issue too, because I only damaged my rear pulleys anyway.
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  #5386  
Old 22-02-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alcyon View Post
Actually looking at the layshaft and one way, I think we can make two different pulleys, one for one way (shorter spline), and one for rear belt (longest spline). Externally they will be the same. I think this will solve the issue too, because I only damaged my rear pulleys anyway.
Yes, same here.
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  #5387  
Old 22-02-2017
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Default Pulleys

One piece for all 4wd will be stronger as the load will be spread between the two pulleys.

My tuppence worth.
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  #5388  
Old 22-02-2017
alcyon alcyon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Suzukitudor View Post
One piece for all 4wd will be stronger as the load will be spread between the two pulleys.

My tuppence worth.
Welcome back Alex !. I will offer both choices ok ?

https://www.shapeways.com/product/WY3M3DJWQ/la-11-r
https://www.shapeways.com/product/S3GDDM7FH/la-11-f
https://www.shapeways.com/product/WNJSAGHJL/la-11-tw

Tomorrow, I will work on the 15 tooth pulleys.
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  #5389  
Old 22-02-2017
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Default pulleys

I like the sound of 15 tooth...... Looking forward to destroying a pulley in the interests of testing. Well I dont actually want to.

Thinking of adding thread lock help take some of the load off the splines with the surface area of the inserts.
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  #5390  
Old 23-02-2017
alcyon alcyon is offline
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15 tooth done.

https://www.shapeways.com/product/7P...i=user-profile

https://www.shapeways.com/product/BS...i=user-profile
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  #5391  
Old 23-02-2017
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Very nice, so just out of curiosity how much would it cost in alloy?
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  #5392  
Old 24-02-2017
alcyon alcyon is offline
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Originally Posted by Welshy40 View Post
Very nice, so just out of curiosity how much would it cost in alloy?
About $23.
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  #5393  
Old 24-02-2017
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Originally Posted by alcyon View Post
Ahh indeed this is clever but i find it a bit dangerous when disassembling. We may forget to slide the upper deck sidewards and could damage those upper supports.
Dan,
Shapeways also offers printing in alloy materials but the price isn't cheap and i have not worked out the tolerances yet. I spent a lot of time and money to adjust the bearing tolerances before I got it right. Its not as simple as putting a 14mm hole for a 14mm bearing. I had to compensate for shrinkage and those shapeways people didn't know squat about this.

Welshy, i will send you this gearbox for you to test. I will check my old email for your address, I think no change of address ?
If you have whatsapp we could stay in touch quicker. Right now we have a huge worldwide whatsapp group and Alex T.H and Dan Rowlands is in it.

I have used 3D printed gearboxes on my Optima Mid and it took punishments well. I did crack a few rear GB earlier on, but I thickened and reinforced my designs and so far holding up.

Is there anyone that could CNC the front gearbox in alloy?
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  #5394  
Old 24-02-2017
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Originally Posted by alcyon View Post
About $23.
Ok, now thats value and think when I get paid may have some spare just for those.
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  #5395  
Old 25-02-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HKS_TRD View Post
Is there anyone that could CNC the front gearbox in alloy?
you have been wanting an alloy front gearbox for so long now. Do you want it to look the same as origional? That would be a lot of set up and machining time on a cnc millling machine , if you remember i looked into ut myself a couple of years ago but my boss wouldn't let me make any on the cnc's at work as it would take to much time and with me not having any issues with my gearbox I never wrote the program's to machine it. Im guessing an alloy one can be made on a 3d printer but im not sure how the tolerances are withh these as ive never seen an alloy printed part, just plastic parts.
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  #5396  
Old 25-02-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rob m View Post
you have been wanting an alloy front gearbox for so long now. Do you want it to look the same as origional? That would be a lot of set up and machining time on a cnc millling machine , if you remember i looked into ut myself a couple of years ago but my boss wouldn't let me make any on the cnc's at work as it would take to much time and with me not having any issues with my gearbox I never wrote the program's to machine it. Im guessing an alloy one can be made on a 3d printer but im not sure how the tolerances are withh these as ive never seen an alloy printed part, just plastic parts.
Issue is alloy 3D print silly money at the moment still
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  #5397  
Old 25-02-2017
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It would be cheaper if you did the left and right sides and not the very back or front section out of alloy. My race car in 90's was cut away so just the left and right and think I only managed to break one in ten years so would be cheaper if you could do that.
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  #5398  
Old 25-02-2017
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Is there any merit in a gearbox design with CF side plates and a 3D printed main body
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  #5399  
Old 26-02-2017
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Problem is the zxs design tried to do something but it was weak and couldnt take a beating whereas the zx/zxr gearbox is beyond the normal and is far stronger than most cars including the YZ10.

I think just cutting the rear middle section away and making it alloy would be suffient.
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  #5400  
Old 27-02-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HKS_TRD View Post
Is there any merit in a gearbox design with CF side plates and a 3D printed main body
something like the one oosh123 made alu and carbon sides

would like to get hold on him and order one since when he offered those i didnt had the foundings.....

i have always been thinking flanged bearings and alusides machined just bolted with the fourscrews on the bottom and ears for the shocktower attachement...

like the one skidrow made for his lazer but more original like .................without the topcover for the belt of course

mvh isobarik
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