TRF211XM Build Tips & Setup

[moggers]

TRF211XM Build Hints & Tips

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OK, finally managed to build the new TRF211XM which I’ll be giving it’s first shakedown on an astro track later this week. Overall the build went very well, but I wanted to share some tips which are not all that new, but really helped me out and hopefully helps out others.

First off, what additional items did I add to the build:
The standard black Gear Diff O-Rings have been replaced by Kyosho O-Rings. This will help stop the gear diff from leaking oil over time.
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In the standard Gear Diff, the 211XM is supplied with plastic gears. Although this would make the diff incredibly light, I’m not sure on it’s strength for off-road, so have replaced the gears with steel gears. This does make the overall gearbox a little heavier, but for me well worth it.
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I decided to replace the standard blue shock O-Rings with aftermarket replacements. If you want leak free shocks, something I recommend.
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The standard Slipper Pads replaced with Team Associated pads.
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The Slipper Spring replaced with Team Associated spring. I will be testing this against the standard kit spring to compare slipper consistency.
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The standard layshaft Counter Gear is steel. Maybe a little overkill, but went for the lightweight replacement gear.
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The build:
First off, the build quality is what you’d expect from Tamiya………outstanding!
The new chassis is incredibly light and very strong. Very impressed how Tamiya have managed to get the strength out of something so light, but it works!
A nice surprise was the alloy gearbox housing……wasn’t expecting that!
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Tip 1:
When building the Ball Diff, the instructions show to flip the diff over BEFORE inserting the diff screw! I was told about this before but still got it wrong. It’s not very clear in the instructions and easy to get wrong.

Tip 2:
The shim for the Ball Diff and gearbox layshaft are very similar. Make sure you get this correct otherwise you’ll have a tight box! The thicker 0.5mm shim is for the ball diff and the thinner 0.2mm shim is for the layshaft.

Tip 3:
You will need to Dremel away a small part of the rear wishbones due to the Diff outdrives hitting the wishbones when compressing the rear suspension. This is also highlighted in the instructions.

Everything else went very smoothly as per instructions.
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Lipo Layouts:
Just to show a couple of layouts I’ll be testing over the next couple of weeks, but primarily I’ll be running Saddles in the 211XM.
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This kit ain’t heavy:
The kit fully built but without wheels or electric is incredibly light…. only 671g. And that’s with steel gears in the diff and 30g weight upfront!!
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It’s nearly ready for it’s maiden shakedown:
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I’ve recently raced the YZ-2 and KF2 and can’t wait to compare the 211XM against both. Although the kit does include a bodyshell, I’ve thrown that out and will be using the ProLine Phantom shell and LMR Avior wing.
The kit setup already looks very good and I don’t think I’ll be adjusting much apart from shock oils and springs. My base setup is below and I'll post updates to this later and how the car performs at it’s first race meeting later this week

I'll continue to modify the car. I've fitted temporary hex axle fitments on the rear to allow me to run 12mm hex wheels and I'll look at converting the front axles to hex fittings, but that's for later

This is my base setup for it's shakedown and will post further updates once it's been thrashed
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[ralphee]

Cant wait to hear your feedback, im running a YZ2, and bought a TRF Vega recently, but i still want this car!

Lee

[MHeadling]

Great right up and a neat wiring job too!

Hope it goes as well as it looks

[xfactor]

Moggers fit grub screws in the holes around the ball stud to prevent the ball stud ripping out matey on rear hubs. If you havent already..,.,

[moggers]

Thanks xfactor !
Yeah not done that yet, thought I may get away with it
I love the fact Tamiya even recommend this in the instructions! Will make sure it's done before it's first thrash Thanks mate

[Aussie Top Force]

Re the rear hubs, plastic, or reinforced versions?

I gave the standard plastic ones a go on my XM, even with the reinforcing grub screws the ball stud ripped out! I now have reinforced ones, but have been using the 0 degree aluminium hubs, which work great on the XM. Not sure if they would increase operating angle on 211 though?

[moggers]

Thanks David,

The kit 211 rear hubs are the 54443 Carbon Reinforced (E Parts) so have never compared with the plastic version. I've now installed the grub screws and it'll have it's first shakedown tonight

I've been eyeing up the aluminium hubs and will probably end up getting a set just because I need more blue on the car! ..... and for additional strength

[pugs]

Originally Posted by xfactor

Moggers fit grub screws in the holes around the ball stud to prevent the ball stud ripping out matey on rear hubs. If you havent already..,.,

If its the same hub as the trf503 it still rips out with them in, drill down the hole with a 2.3mm drill bit and use the 5x8mm hard hex, never had one come out again

[ralphee]

Burtsing to hear how she went, very close to just going for this car now, just want some feedback lol.

Bests.......lee

[moggers]

Practice bodyshell fitted and sprayed up...........no chance of losing that in the dark! Heading to SHRCCC for some laps

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I've got a pretty standard setup on the car, I purposely didn't want to try a setup specific for this one track, but wanted something that I can use as a base to work against. Only major change from kit are oils/springs and the addition of Tamiya's 54439 0-Deg Suspension Weight Block upfront.

I was greeted to a track layout the same as a recent BRCA Regional meeting hosted by SHRCC that I attended a couple of weeks back using the KF2, so I already had laptimes I could compare

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All eyes were watching as I went out for some practice laps............WOW this car is so easy to drive!! It felt good straight out of the box. It did push a little on the fast corners but it was taking the jumps very well and already I was more consistent than the KF2. My first impression..... FANTASTIC !!

I can't compare the 211XM to the 201XM or any other incarnations of the previous models as I've never owned a Tamiya 2WD before, but for me, comparing against my previous YZ-2 and KF2's, out of the box, it's already won me over..........and I've not even raced yet!

We managed to get 3 rounds of qualifying in before we had to abandon the rest of the evening due to thunder and lightning storms approaching. 1st round I didn't attack the track. Car was very smooth but still pushing a little. 2nd round, decided to change nothing as the geared diff was now bedded in nicely and wanted to attack the track more and see how it performed. A couple of mistakes didn't improve my times, so now time to see how it reacts to changes. 3rd and ultimately our last run I softened the car up on both the front and rear by changing springs. One grade on the rear and three grades on the front. On the track, way more grip both front and rear. So much so I gripped rolled on one lap! Car was faster and I improved by over 5 seconds, even with the grip roll! I'm liking this car!! I'm already on the same laptimes as I was achieving at the regional with the KF2 and I'm more consistent. Cut out the small mistakes and I'll already be equalling my 5 minute times with the KF2.

I was going to change springs again for the 4th round, hardening the springs on the front by one grade. Just searching for the balance that will allow me to attack the track with confidence. Next step would be changes to roll centres to get the car to corner more flat

The car is outstanding!! Performed faultless for the short run we had and for me and my style of driving, already better than the YZ-2 and KF2. Oh and if you run a car with a white chassis and blue bling, be prepared for some attention! lol

My setup after changes for the 3rd round is below.

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Next is testing at TORCH before attending the BRCA Regionals next weekend

[ralphee]

Think im sold lol. I found the XMW such a neutral car to drive, very safe, tons of grip and jumped so well.
I find the YZ2 can be a little feisty for me at times, my skill level isnt all that right now, so do feel a move could actually work, great write up Moggers, look forward to more of your endeavors, now, Dinball i reckon, or Stella lol!

lee

[ralphee]

Ah wanted to ask, what parts did you fit to get hex rims on buddy, was thinking of the AE B5 route on the front, that about the best option?

Bests....lee

[moggers]

Hi Lee,

Thanks for the kind words!
Nothing goes unnoticed what you post a picture lol. I'll post a quick mention about the hex conversion on the front over the weekend as I only managed to finish it and happy with it yesterday. If you want the least amount of filing, drilling and messing about, I found the Yokomo BMAX2 hex conversion kit to be the most easiest to fit. I've not tried the AE B5 route, as I wanted something that kept with the original Tamiya design.

I've post a quick write up on my hex conversion hopefully tomorrow mate

Jason

[ralphee]

Jason, i thought is looked a bit more trick than the AE fittings haha! Cant say im shy of a bit of filing and fettling!
That would be awesome buddy, thanks for taking the time, not a lot has been written about the car since it launched, which is sad!

Lee

[moggers]

12mm HEX Conversion Build

Something that I was also trying out for the first time in the shakedown was the 12mm conversion on the front of the TRF211XM. I’ve read a number of examples of conversions other racers have done over the years to the TRF201 etc. and they all seem to centre around the Team Associated parts. For me I chose Yokomo

So why Yokomo? I wanted to use something as similar to the original geometry as possible, but also something that was simple to install with the least amount of hacking/drilling/filing to make parts fit and also using Associated parts meant different axle threads, wheel nuts etc from front to rear. Also another plus point is Yokomo supply a complete hex conversion for the B-MAX2, so most of the parts you already know are going to fit without issue! Huge plus point for me.

Parts I used are:

B-MAX2 B2-HCOV - Hex Wheel Hub Conversion Kit
B-MAX2 B2-413 - Front Steering Hub Carrier (+5deg)
B-MAX2 B2-414 - King Pins

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By using B-MAX2 parts, it means you don’t need to modify, hack or drill any of the Tamiya kit parts The only modification is that the Tamiya King Pin to attach the B2-413 steering hub to the front wishbone is 0.3mm wider (thicker) than the hole in the Yokomo hub carrier. To keep tolerances nice and tight, you just need to get a 3mm diameter drill bit and by hand, twist through the hub carrier hole. This can easily be done by hand as you only need to widen the hole in the Yokomo hub carrier very slightly. The Tamiya King Pin will then fit through the Hub Carrier with no issue.

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With everything fitted, you still retain a legal track width on the front with the benefit of 12mm hex fitments and the same axle threads front and rear Also very simple installation with a small modification keeping tolerances very tight.

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[Aussie Top Force]

I like the look of that conversion. Looks standard. I have been thinking of B5M conversion, but as the hobby shop were i race indoors carries lots of Yokomo parts, I should be able to obtain this fairly easily.

[ralphee]

Hmm, the B2 HCOV isnt too well stocked over here, but, it does have me thinking of using all my spare YZ2 parts on the front end, id only need kingpins, and gain adjustable caster, maybe worth a look?

Lee

[moggers]

Hi Lee,

MB Models usually hold them in stock, but seems they've already sold

Before pulling the trigger on the YZ-2 parts, if you have a donor or can borrow a car to measure up, check the hubs. From memory I can't remember if the king pin is much thicker, which means you may need to modify the Tamiya wishbones. It may all fit perfect, but worth checking everything out first, especially the sizes of king pins

[ralphee]

Jason

Just tried a YZ2 hinge pin into a TRF arm, sweet fit, fitting a TRF hinge pin, into a YZ2 C arm, just looks to be a quick ream, probably about the same 3mm bit you tried, so it does look as if the YZ2 parts are pretty much a direct fit option too buddy!

Lee

[moggers]

Nice one Lee !
Good to know Yokomo have kept the same dimensions on the YZ-2 also

Jason