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#1
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TM2 Top Team Tips
Hi all,
This has all been mentioned before but with a lot more TM2's out there being used now from the second batch I'll refresh the info Top Tip: BEFORE you plug in your lipo dremel or file away the battery brace around the area where the connectors enter the lipo, you will need to remove around 2 or 3mm of the carbon brace. Don't be worrying about strength, this thing is beyond overkill for holding in the lipo so cut away more than you need (better safe than sorry). When you've finished mark the end so you know which way round to fit it in the car. Top Tip: Team C have blessed us all with tapered pistons as standard items in the kit, be careful when building the shocks as the instruction manual shows them the wrong way up. The taper should face down the shaft towards the thread Top Tip: When assembling the rear top deck there are two small spacers that fit under the deck on top of the alloy centre assembly. These are easily lost when working on the car at the track. To avoid dropping them, super glue them to the top deck. Top Tip: If you want a more planted rear end to the car try using the 1 degree alloy rear hubs from the TC02c. To use these you will need to also use the pivot pins from the 2wd family and ream out the hole in the wishbone to accept the larger pin. Top Tip: To create more flex (more grip) cut through the rear top deck with a dremel. Top Tip: Remember that BOTH the blocks that hold the rear pivot pins in place (one in front and one behind the gearbox) can be turned upside down to give more or less anti squat. You can also add spacers under these for even more adjustment as required. Top Tip: The two screws that hold the motor clamp in place need to be TIGHT so my tip is to replace them with cap head screws that you can really crank up tight. Feel free to add more of your own TTTTTTT (TM2 Team Top Tips To This Thread) Alec |
#2
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Cheers Alec for the tips am just building my new car so very useful!
Also Iain Mellish recommends drilling another hole in the rear wishbones for more droop and grip for outdoors. Am enjoying the build so far hope it's ready for Sunday :-) |
#3
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Also
1. Change kevlar spur gear to standard nylon or RW Racing 2. Change rear hex roll pins to cut body clips
3. See link for shiming diff www.youtube.com/watch?v=NPwRsEhYYug&feature=youtube_gdata_player 4. See link for further tips on "Team C" forum http://forum.teamcracing.net/?fromuser=welshmerlin |
#4
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Quote:
So far I have only tried them on my T4. Next week I will also do some testing with the TM2. Cheers, Zack
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Team C Racing / Absima / Speed Passion / Attack RC / Dirt Champ Design / Hobbydelgado |
#5
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We drilled the inner hole initially to try and get some extra grip in low grip conditions but it also helps soak up ripply bumps very well, I think the standard inner hole leaves the shocks too laid down for my liking outoors....I don't think I'd evr run it on high grip carpet. I think it's fairly easily done and just gives an extra option
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#6
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How much farther in are you drilling the hole? thanks
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RC DISCO,RC OCTANE,SMD,DHR PAINT,RC IMAGES,CARROT RACING PRODUCTS |
#7
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I tried shimming my diff as per the video but it felt really tight and felt like it was binding a but. I just did it as per the manual and I haven't had any issues but it makes more noise than I expected.
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Team C Canada Team Driver TC02Evo - TS2 - TC02T - TC02C TM2 - TM2SC - TM2T(Frankenstein) |
#8
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It's been drilled at the same distance apart as what the original inner and outer positions are....sorry if that's a bit vague!
I forgot to mention that with the shocks on the drilled hole position you actually get too much droop, to the point where the drive shafts can almost come out of the out drives....we have put some limiters in the shocks to counter this, not sure if this has any other adverse effects, I don't think so! : / |
#9
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Reducing travel will reduce weight transfer - it will add a little off power traction.
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