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#1
07-01-2013
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losi 22 help
hi all when would you add these to your car and how would the help ?
Losi +1.5mm Width Aluminium Rear Hex - Losi 22 - TLR2932 my car suffers from low speed tight corner grip roll mid corner any help would be helpfull 
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#2
08-01-2013
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Hi
The effect of the 1.5mm hexes would be to give you more drive forward off the turn and a little less side bite, but the greatest effect would be to remove a row of spike of the rear tyre or other set up changes. Maybe post your set up so all can see and give suggestions as to what to change to help. Chris
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#4
10-01-2013
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Front suspension
Toe +1 Ride height 21mm Camber -1 deg Caster 5deg Kick angle 25deg Sway bar no Oil 27.5 Piston 55 Spring black Spindle type trailing Shock limiters 2mm Shock location 2 on tower outside on arm Bump steer 2mm on spindle Camber link 2 with no spacers Rear suspension Toe 4 deg Anti squat 3 deg Roll centre lrc Ride height 20mm Camber 1 deg Rear hub spacing foreword short Hex width stock Sway bar no Oil 22.5 Piston 54 Spring yellow Shock limiters no Camber link 1 with 3mm under and E with 3mm under Shock location 3 on tower/ outside on arm Battery saddle Tyres Schumacher yellow cut staggers mid insert front Schumacher yellow mini spike soft insert rear
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#6
10-01-2013
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Hi
These are the things I would look at; 1) You need to run the cars ride height the same front to rear higher at the rear than the front (typically I run indoors 19mm at the front and 20mm at the rear). 2) I would remove the 2mm under the steering block (i.e the 2mm of bump steer yo have put on) . 3) I would go to a 55 piston, move the shock into the middle on the tower and lower your rear camber link to 2mm maybe even 1mm both on the inner and outer. To me the back end of your car is set up to roll and generate a lot of drive, and then your front end is very stiff. So in my opinion as you go into the turn you release the throttle to turn in and the weight transferes very quickly to the front outside wheel which doesnt give at all and then it flips. Now I am by no means an engineer, so I could well be wrong but this is the way I see it looking at your set up. I have been running the car on medium grip carpet and wood down at maritime as well as at Faversham over the winter and I have not suffered the problems you are having, so maybe have a look at my set up and use that as a starting point and tweak it from there to your liking. http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114285 I've posted two set up there, one which is mine and the other which is a starting point set up for a standard out of the box kit, as mine has the 4mm trailing axels and a few other bits that you may not have if you have only just got the car. I believe Billy ran the set up I suggested and said it was a good starting point if you dont have the extra bits. HTH 
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#9
10-01-2013
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Hi matey, just my viewpoint to help alongside Chris's pointers...
Rear tyre choice seems a bit odd for carpet? minispikes don't work great on carpet, slide around too much and with the softer, taller and rounder profile compared to minipins you will be getting a lot of roll... especially with soft inserts. Does everyone at venue run this tyre choice/insert combo, particularly the top drivers in class? Minipins have a lot more traction but at same time are a lower harder profile and wider with a flatter carcass, so much better suited for indoor harder flat surfaces, especially carpet... worth looking at for a starter. For me the oils you are running are too soft, especially rear, i would be running black front spring with 37.5 losi and rear pink spring with 32.5 losi with a similar piston set up... this will help control the roll/weight transfer. Definitely agree with rear shock position needing change to middle on tower and inner on wishbone.. get the feeling the grip roll you are getting is outside tyres rolling over plus soft shock collapsing on outside combined with inner rear wheel lifting due to lack of droop with shock position and the weight transfer from this flipping the car. I always run more camber on rear than front with 22 so try -1 on front and -2 on rear..it allows the rear to roll more than front on load which i found helps the car pivot quicker in tighter sections... plus the extra camber on rear gives more stability in straight line. Camber links Delves is spot on... 3mm spacers on rear is too much, i always run 2mm under outer studs and 1mm under inner, but this does make the car more agressive on turn in and push a little on exit (driver preference!) I run +1.5 hexes.. found they stabilise the car more on acceleration and loses some of the inital steering grab, just feels a bit more planted on high grip tracks... this was before 4mm trailing spindles which do a better job IMO. Hope this helps.
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#11
12-01-2013
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Put mini pins on whent up to 22.5 oil in rear and took out 3mm spacers put in 2mm in and out on rear also put camber to 2 deg on rear happy man almost won my first A final tonight at yatton :-) just got to work on stoping it bouncing after a big jump and sort my nerves out lol
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#13
12-01-2013
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Any one got a pair of losi 22 rear pink springs they don't wont ?
Next time I'm up at racing going to try front black spring with 37.5 oil and the 55 piston Rear pink spring if I can get some and 32.5 oil with 54 piston With any luck will stop it bottoming out and bouncing of the jumps And as its the same difference front to rear hopfaly car will fill the same to drive but with slitle better damping for landings As it is the jumps were I am losing a couple of tenths as I got to hit the dawn side for the car to stay stable and it would aper the Durango/ rb6 and cougars don't
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#14
12-01-2013
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Cryer-Evo are you running emulsion shocks? Changing to this type of shock rather than the standard kit bladder type massively helped my car with stability and landing prowess. I'd have to agree that the 22 benefits from more camber on the rear than the front, I've used 2.5 rear and 1.5 front in very high grip. Something people have not mentioned is wheelbase, I feel the 22 responds very well to wheelbase changes so may be worth trying on a club night as its a very simple change, the 22 is so long compared with the competition that short wheelbase brings it in line with the centro's and cougars of this world...give it a try.
Chris
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#16
12-01-2013
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I'd honestly give the emulsion shocks a try if you can. With the emulsion shocks the bladder is replaced in the shocks with an Oring. TLR sell some aluminium bleeder caps designed for this purpose but you can modify your bladders if you don't want to spend around £25 for new caps by cutting the middle out the bladders leaving an o ring type shape that now fits as a seal in the shock cap.
The upgrade TLR bleeder caps are very good though as the bleeder screw makes getting equal shock rebound a lot easier. With emulsion shocks you ideally want to run as little rebound as possible which is harder to achieve without the bleeder caps. Chris
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