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  #21  
Old 09-06-2009
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Am enjoying watching this build, good work DCM

Theres no doubt its a near on carbon copy of an RB5, is that legal? Using the origional style rear end rather than the new SP, not a bad thing though, i've never been convinced by the worlds rear end on the RB5.

The only down side to the origional RB5 rear end was that it was far to narrow in the box so it will interesting to see how the Pro-X measures up?

Looking good though, an RB5 with green bits rather than blue and £100 cheaper
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  #22  
Old 09-06-2009
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glad your enjoying it, I still haven't found where they have saved so much money though.... Only thing that is more bling than pro, are the shocks, with no teflon coating.
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  #23  
Old 09-06-2009
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Is it metric?
What size are the hinge pins?


G
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  #24  
Old 09-06-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DCM View Post
glad your enjoying it, I still haven't found where they have saved so much money though.... Only thing that is more bling than pro, are the shocks, with no teflon coating.
The RB5 used to retail at £160 it's only due to the exchange rate that as sent it to £240+. But you would expect Ansmann to have simlar issues in todays climate? Where are they based?

They have done well to price it at £139, on the face of it the quality looks good. So does the design with it being so close to an RB5 its fair to say it will perform well.

No doubt about it a lot will ride on the shocks as to wheather the Pro-X cuts the mustard.
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  #25  
Old 09-06-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Northy View Post
Is it metric?
What size are the hinge pins?


G
it is all metric, G, most of the bearings are 10x5, diff output is 15x10, hinge pins are 3mm diameter, same for the shock shafts.

Only let down, that I can see, is wheel fitment, I would of liked to see the adoption of at least the ubiquitous B4/Losi fitment (no, they don't kit, checked already), but, being Ansmann, chances are, the wheels will be cheap!!
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  #26  
Old 09-06-2009
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I really fancy one of these!!! Good work Ansmann!!!
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  #27  
Old 09-06-2009
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just built the shocks... will post some pics up in a mo....

Whats the diameter of a Team Associated piston, in metric please?
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  #28  
Old 09-06-2009
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Default The bouncy things - shocks I mean

Right, shocks, they are actually quite good. Casings are an alloy, anodized in a rather nice green colour, two piece shock tops, with a diaphragm, the lower seal consists of two o-rings, a shim and a shock chaft guide, they are either Nylon or Delrin.

Specs
Front shaft - 42.5mm
Rear shaft - 51mm
Piston Diameter - 9.9mm
Piston thickness - 2.5mm
Piston Holes - 2 hole - 1.4mm

The threaded adjuster comes with an o-ring, to stop unwanted vibration adjustment.

The shafts are a smooth fit in the o-rings, and do slide in, rather nicely too... silky even.

Filling them is pretty simple, although the process of how much oil, what oil and how to bleed them, is completely lost in the manual.

1. Assemble shock cap, with diaphragm
2. Fill shock to top
3. Pump piston to bring trapped air to the top
4. Top up oil, to top
5. Fit shock cap, wind in, then back off, one turn
6. Push piston in, to get right amount of rebound without over-pressurisation of the shock
7. Tighten shock cap, clean oil

Shock should feel pretty sweet after that, I am trying 35wt front, and 30wt rear for now.











The shock piston tops also come with a bleed hole, drilled into them, this made filling and bleeding, to get the correct re-bound on them, far easier.



The kit springs are a little soft, but after measuring them, you can get away with using B4 springs, I grabbed a front and rear, and tried them on, kit springs on the left, B4 ones on the right.















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  #29  
Old 09-06-2009
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b4 pistons are 10.09mm buy 2.38mm
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  #30  
Old 09-06-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigred5765 View Post
b4 pistons are 10.09mm buy 2.38mm
cheers, they are just a smidge to big, was a thought anyways
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  #31  
Old 09-06-2009
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Default Round things and chassis

Got the wheels out, kit doesn't come with any tyres, which, I think, is a good thing, cause most of the time, you never ever use them. Wheels, not to sure what they are made of, they are shinny, white (with what looks like either a red or pink tinge), they are well braced inside, and also come with vent holes too.

Front wheels, do not tighten too tight, as the bearings bind, due to no internal spacer.

















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  #32  
Old 09-06-2009
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Car looks good!

I wouldn't be surprised if RB5 wheels fit straight on
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  #33  
Old 09-06-2009
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i like the look of the shocks, always have trouble with mine
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  #34  
Old 09-06-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bender View Post
Car looks good!

I wouldn't be surprised if RB5 wheels fit straight on
They look like 12mm hex wheels, front (they look like 4wd fronts) and back, so Kyosho (and maybe Academy?) wheels should fit.
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  #35  
Old 09-06-2009
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12mm hex's all round.

Shocks are easy!
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  #36  
Old 09-06-2009
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Electrics , n then your gunna have to tell us how it go's seriously considering one to have to run when my car breaks!

^can i see a new oOple reviewer!^

John
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  #37  
Old 09-06-2009
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most of the electrics are in.... just a little left, and shell to do.
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  #38  
Old 09-06-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DCM View Post
Right, shocks, they are actually quite good. Casings are an alloy, anodized in a rather nice green colour, two piece shock tops, with a diaphragm, the lower seal consists of two o-rings, a shim and a shock chaft guide, they are either Nylon or Delrin.

Specs
Front shaft - 42.5mm
Rear shaft - 51mm
Piston Diameter - 9.9mm
Piston thickness - 2.5mm
Piston Holes - 2 hole - 1.4mm

The threaded adjuster comes with an o-ring, to stop unwanted vibration adjustment.

The shafts are a smooth fit in the o-rings, and do slide in, rather nicely too... silky even.

Filling them is pretty simple, although the process of how much oil, what oil and how to bleed them, is completely lost in the manual.

1. Assemble shock cap, with diaphragm
2. Fill shock to top
3. Pump piston to bring trapped air to the top
4. Top up oil, to top
5. Fit shock cap, wind in, then back off, one turn
6. Push piston in, to get right amount of rebound without over-pressurisation of the shock
7. Tighten shock cap, clean oil

Shock should feel pretty sweet after that, I am trying 35wt front, and 30wt rear for now.











The shock piston tops also come with a bleed hole, drilled into them, this made filling and bleeding, to get the correct re-bound on them, far easier.



The kit springs are a little soft, but after measuring them, you can get away with using B4 springs, I grabbed a front and rear, and tried them on, kit springs on the left, B4 ones on the right.

howcome i'm not allowed to build the shocks on the carpet :O
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  #39  
Old 09-06-2009
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its a towel
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  #40  
Old 09-06-2009
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Greggy, a few points...

It is a towel
It is my house
I am not married

So if I wanted to, I could build them in bed, naked
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