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#101
17-12-2011
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Quote:
__________________
BUDS BALLS
BIG AN SAGGY E REVO BAJA,SS TS REED All The Gear,and No Idea!! 4PKS,4PL PILLOW CASE CREW http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29834 
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#103
17-12-2011
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Thought I would put my build up here is well, to share my thoughts and experiences so far.
First of all the kit contents were all top notch, the maching of all metal parts were probably the best I've seen in RC cars and the plastic mouldings were also very accurate and seemed to be pretty damned tough. The build requires several parts to be threadlocked in place, but none is provided in the kit. I prefer to use the low strength blue type threadlock (i.e. Loctite 221), this is more than enough for RC cars. Using medium strength red type threadlock (243) could lead to problems with undoing bolts/nuts and rounding out capscrews in the future. I also used a M3 and M4 tap to help start several of the threads in the plastic mouldings, this seemed to help a lot as the plastic mouldings are very tough and the clearances seem to be nice and tight. I know there has been some critism of the fasteners used by Serpent on rctech.net, with several complaints of the hex head rounding out. But all of the capscrews in this kit were marked up as either grade 10.9 or 12.9 so these should be more than up to the job. With any problem threads tapped out there were no issues found execpt with the receiver box lid M2 screws. The manual also isn't very clear in places, so I will try and fill out some of the parts that I found. Perhaps Serpent could do some build tips or videos on their website to help with this. I started with sealing the carbon parts with cyan to help stenghten them and stop splitting in the future. A good tip I found on rctech.net is to use a black permanent marker on the edges prior to applying the cyan, the gives a nice gloss black finish to the edges thats a bit different to just using cyan. Stage 1 in the manual is to build the centre diffs, and then the front and rear diffs. Alll three diffs are the same except for the spur/crown wheel gears in their respective places. All of the parts again appeared to be of good quality, with the gears and pins all well cast or machined, and all parts went together very well. The only issue I had was with the front gearbox, with the recommended new shimming on the seperate sheet. With three shims behind the diff pinion I couldn't even assemble the gearbox cases, with one shim removed all went together well with the gear mesh a little notchy. Here I think the manual could be a lot clearer, or maybe a build video on the Serpent website. The new shimming is only a recommended starting point, if the gear mesh is too tight then try removing a shim from behind the pinion. The gear mesh from new should be a bit tight or notchy, this will bed in after a few runs when it should be nice and smooth. Then it would be best to check the gear mesh again and adjust as necessary. The pictures below show the build of one of the diffs. The spur gear is steel, so although will be a bit louder than nylon should be more than up to the job. The next stage in the manual is to attach the centre diff mount/motor mount to the chassis, the manual doesn't mention to use threadlock on these capscrews, but I did for security.
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#104
17-12-2011
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Nice work badger....
awesome work least fellas have two build threads to compare build tips  I like that you are taking photos of what I miss because I was getting to excited building it 
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#105
17-12-2011
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Nice work badger....
awesome work least fellas have two build threads to compare build tips I like that you are taking photos of what I miss because I was getting to excited building it Things I bought extra to beef it up where red anodised countersunk washers to replace the plastic kit ones, and some 5mm nuts for the uprights instead of plastic ones didnt really trust these much. word of warning bager the 40mm screws in the rear diff make sure you have a strong driver.
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#106
17-12-2011
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As some may notice, there are some posts missing from this thread.
Until the boss confirms whether he wants to allow "Lip" back, then all posts will be removed.
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#107
17-12-2011
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No problem Col, I tried to contact jimmy a few times and didnt recieve a reply since the day I was blocked. I will Pm him and hopefully get a reply.
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#108
17-12-2011
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Next up is the rear gearbox and shock tower. The first part is to assemble the rear centre drive shaft, this showed the bearings behind the diff pinion to be huge at 19mm and 11mm O.D. The CVD drive pin is aslo captured by the inner bearing and the joint is sealed off with a rubber boot.
The centre shaft is then fed through the gearobx and prevented from moving by three self tapping screws. I think this picture also shows the size of the bearing just behind the diff pinion. I guess that Serpent had some issues with previous versions of the Cobra 811 buggies in this area and hence the possible overkill. There is a seperate sheet with the manual which suggests to use additional shims when building the centre drive shafts and also for the diffs, but these are only a starting recommendation and you might find that a different shim set up is required when building the gearboxes. This sheet (and the manual) can be downloaded from the Serpent website. I found that the rear gearbox went together very well with the updated shim set up. The two gearbox halves sandwich the rear shock tower, and all went together very well. The only issue I have here is that plastic nuts and countersunk washers are used to bolt the two cases togehter, apparently this is done so that in the event of a crash the nuts will break and not the gearobx cases or shock tower. I built the gearbox with these nuts and washers, but will probably change them out for proper M3 nyloc nuts and ali countersunk washers later on for more peace of mind.
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#109
17-12-2011
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Quote:
__________________
MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD
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#110
17-12-2011
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Quote:
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#111
17-12-2011
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Quote:
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#112
17-12-2011
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Next is to build up the rear and then front gearboxs and suspension.
The rear suspension brackets are fitted with plastic inserts that can be changed to alter the anti squat and toe in. The forward bracket alters the anti squat and the rear alters the toe in. The forward bracket can also be changed for an option part to increase the anti squat still further. The forward suspension brackets also have the same type of inserts to change the kick up. The inner suspension pins are also ground to a taper at either end, this is to ensure that with varying angles of the pins they don't bind in the plastic inserts. The anti roll bars are attached to the suspension arms by a pivotball arrangement, and are supported by ballraces in the gearobox cases. All of this leads to a very smooth action. The driveshafts again have captured drive pins and large wheel bearings (21mm and 16mm O.D.) All went together well without problems. The rear drive shafts have rubber boots over the CVD joints, whilst the fronts don't. I presume that this is because the rubber boots don't last on the front, just like my Durango 410. The CVD joints with rubber boots I lubricate with Muc-Off motorcylce chain lube, this goes of to be almost totally dry (no lube is totally dry). You can get small 50ml cans of this from Halfords for approx £3.50. I've used this on my Durango 410 and the wear seems to be less than the fronts that are left dry. The outer suspension hinge pins run in top hat steel inserts so the suspension shoud remain slop free for a good time.
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#113
17-12-2011
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Once both ends are built up they can be fitted to the chassis. The only issue I had here is the rear suspension hangers have lugs that locate in the chassis, one of these was tight in the chassis so the hole was filed out slightly. Then all went together very well.
The front and rear units can be removed easily again for maintenance, eight capscrews for the rear and eight capscrews plus the two outer steering rose joints for the front. Hopefully this will make working on and cleaning the buggy nice and simple.
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#114
17-12-2011
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Quote:
Be on your best behaviour boys and girls - I'm watching!
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#115
18-12-2011
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Some pictures arent working badger.
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#117
18-12-2011
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Bit of an update to where its sitting right now, recieved a set of tyres to fit, unfortunatly it doesnt come with rims so I ordered proline v2 rims with medium inserts and dboots A compound tyres, as I will mainly be on astro turf.
All the velcro is on now as I dont drill the holes out, the only hole I will be making is the aerial, the body mounts were cut down and applied a soft protective coating to protect scratching the shell. ive ordered a chrome decal sheet as well for the bling look Im still debating alu towers and some of the bling parts Upgrades fitted so far = Hard servo saver spring    
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#119
18-12-2011
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Don't know what happened to the pics, but I've edited the posts and included the pictures again and all now seems to be ok.
Lip, I think that you will need to angle those wires going to the batteries a bit instead of pointing straight up, they might hit the shell. I also used heavy duty bullet connectors instead of the usual bird cage type, got mine from Demon Power Products. The link below shows what I'm on about. http://demonpowerproducts.co.uk/prod...nnector-p-4838
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#120
18-12-2011
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Badger can I ask when you put the 3 phillips screws in the diff did one of the left or right catch the main diff gear? I ended up just using tweo screws to hold the bearing in.
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