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Old 25-06-2010
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Default TRF201 Build Thread....

Right, after lots of waiting, anticipation, swearing at Customs and Excise... it finally arrived in ParcelForce depot, and I couldn't wait any longer, and drove to collect it a day early!!.... It came in a nice little box, with a carry handle, some bumff inside, including a flyer with a pic of Lee Martin's car. I also ordered some parts at the same time, front end bits and the Imperial front stub axles (54220). So, after a day of doing other things, on with the build.

GEARBOX

Gearbox comes in the hard graphite plastic, and it is also like the new gearbox on the Kyosho, and the motor is centralised, rather than off set to the left.

The diff now uses an alloy diff nut, but Tamiya have been clever, and the diff screw comes with threadlock on it.



The diff is a normal diff (no fancy Schumacher tricks inside), but only comes with standard diff balls and not Carbide ones.....



But once assembled, is very smooth in operation



The gearbox cases are pretty substantial, with lots of internal ribbing to control any flex that may go on, as the gearbox is an internal structure of the rear end, to control flex...



And everything fits in very tidy, the only thing I could mention, the topshaft could do with a lot more shimming, as there is plenty of endlfot (about 1.5mm). Also, the layshaft gear is held on by a pin and o-ring, not being the trusting sort, I fitted the pin with loctite too...



Once together though, the gearbox runs smooth, no tight spots at all, and it a neat little unit, as capable as anything from AE, Losi and Kyosho.



Next step.... Rear End
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Old 25-06-2010
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Default [b]Rear End[/b]

The back of the car will be instantly recognisable to anyone who has built a Tamiya 4wd of late. It uses the suspension balls on the inner hinge pins, with captive outer pins. Upswept rear wishbones. The only part to take care of, in building the rear, is the left rear hub goes on the right, and vice versa.

The rear suspension hold is sandwiched between the gearbox and the chassis, but it is not integral part of the T-Piece.

One little tip, if you smear a little Ceramic Grease on the screws, they thread in nice and easy on the hard graphite plastic.









One note, the rear wishbones, although similar in design (and obviously metric and not imperial), are slightly longer than the B4, as seen in the pic below (Tamiya item is the lower one).



The rear shock tower is quite a substantial item, it interlocks with the chassis, and there is a brace that goes from the tower to the gearbox. It also has mounts ready for fitting an anti-roll bar to.





Once assembled, the drivetrain is very smooth and notch free, the suspension has no binding in it either, and like all Tamiya cars, you can buy shims for the suspension arms when they become a little worn.

More to follow....
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Old 25-06-2010
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What flavour are the wishbones? 501X, 511 high traction or the old DB-01 version?

Nice build thread, making me sorely tempted...
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Old 25-06-2010
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High traction!

Didn't think of shimming the end float away, am I asking for trouble?? I never usually bother on this style of gearbox to be honest!?
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Old 25-06-2010
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i dont shim it....dont worry pig hands
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Old 25-06-2010
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seriously top shelf kit guys, I do like that important parts are screwed and key located too. And I haven't had to dremmel, modify or wonder WTF is going on.....

Front end is on, very cool, steering assembly can be removed with one screw by the looks.
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Old 25-06-2010
fastinfastout fastinfastout is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DCM View Post
The only part to take care of, in building the rear, is the left rear hub goes on the right, and vice versa.
I wonder what the kit rear toe in is, and also what the toe in is if the hubs are reversed.
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Old 25-06-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastinfastout View Post
I wonder what the kit rear toe in is, and also what the toe in is if the hubs are reversed.
Pretty sure the hubs are toe neutral, and the inner hinge pin mounts are 3 degree. I think they run reversed on this, and the 511 actually, just to get the ball stud in the right position to angle the upper link!

Ali hubs with 0.5 and 1.0 toe are due out in July!
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