set ups

[Chequered Flag Racing]

Originally Posted by stevo16v

run silicone tube instead of spings on the front with 4mm caster on the front

Is the above for a brushless Dave or Dave's in general?

How much tubing do you use?
Enough so the chassis has no front droop or are we looking for a little droop?

4mm caster
is that 4 mm of spacing or 4mm of incline as measured from the top of the king pin?

dont forget the nylon battery trays
you have funds

[bald eagle]

Originally Posted by stevo16v

90 % of mardave setup is rear tires
run silicone tube instead of spings on the front with 4mm caster on the front
rear should be 1mm of sag with soft spings
rear tires should be about 52mm
if ur cars kicking out run 52 japs on the front with superglue run around the outside rim if ur car understeers go down the compounds on the front
i was 2nd mardave national my brother was first
once u have the car balanced u should be able to run 100% on everything on ur speedo and crave more speed
rear diff should have 12 balls and run as loose as possible before it slips
and dont forget the nylon battery trays i make the cells run flat on the chassis lowering the centre of gravity and u can run ur cells offset to counter the motor
1st 2nd 3rd and 4th at the nationals
if u use lots of additive on the rear u should use 2 pairs,one one week then the other the next giving them time to dry out ,additive will soften the tire and ruin the that why one week u will go ace the next e final
then u can play with shells and small tune ups ,there the bits u fine tune the car with

Definately some good tips here. Ive been running silicone tubing on the front for quite some time (before i semi retired from racing and now making a return) Im going to experiment this time around with some nortech whities instead of the tubing. I think the degree of castor depends on the tightness of the track, but i always run a minimum of 2*1mm washers under the front of the wishbones (2deg castor) just for stability if nothing else. The tip about tyres and additive again, good tip, not tried it, but certainly makes alot of sense.
Spomething that i have found alot of people doing at my local track, is not using the sub trim to centre the steering servo properly, simply leads to unbalanced steering, doesn't sound much of a tip, but makes quite a big difference.

[Chequered Flag Racing]

enjoy as I'm not making another one

[stevo16v]

Originally Posted by Chequered Flag Racing

Is the above for a brushless Dave or Dave's in general?

How much tubing do you use?
Enough so the chassis has no front droop or are we looking for a little droop?

4mm caster
is that 4 mm of spacing or 4mm of incline as measured from the top of the king pin?

dont forget the nylon battery trays
you have funds

battery tray on itsway buddy
run silicon tube the full hieght of the king pin but about 1mm short so it doesnt bind the steering , i leave the springs on aswell to take up the slack
i put washers under the front wishbones ,a general rule is the more washers the more hi speed bite u will remove thus allowing u to run gripper tyres for the low speed corners without spinning out ,think of caster on a shopping trolley,
the last tip and one of the most important is if u use a fast servo turn the speed down ,if it turns the steering to fast u will simply wash the front out ,the car should drive round the corner ,if it locks over to fast the car wont steer properly till the cornering speed is reduced,ive got a corelesss futaba turned down to 60%

[Chequered Flag Racing]

Originally Posted by stevo16v

battery tray on itsway buddy

Originally Posted by stevo16v

run silicon tube the full hieght of the king pin but about 1mm short so it doesnt bind the steering , i leave the springs on aswell to take up the slack
i put washers under the front wishbones ,a general rule is the more

Springs & Tubing , why?

Originally Posted by stevo16v

the last tip and one of the most important is if u use a fast servo turn the speed down ,if it turns the steering to fast u will simply wash the front out ,the car should drive round the corner ,if it locks over to fast the car wont steer properly till the cornering speed is reduced,ive got a corelesss futaba turned down to 60%

Might have experienced this last night after fitting a RC Dynamics booster to power the servo. I'll try next time without. Don't think my DX3s will slow the servo down thought, I may be wrong. Servo's a Savox 1251MG

[stevo16v]

Originally Posted by Chequered Flag Racing

Springs & Tubing , why?



Might have experienced this last night after fitting a RC Dynamics booster to power the servo. I'll try next time without. Don't think my DX3s will slow the servo down thought, I may be wrong. Servo's a Savox 1251MG

i run the springs over the top of the tubing just to take up the last bit of slack ,if the tubings to big it binds the steering to smal and the from end drops ,its just easier and the tubing takes a bit of stick

[janus_77]

We run "Mardave Unlimited" which means we dont use 1c batteries but 2c. Mine is placed over the length of the chassis.

setup:
- Jap 40, front strut brace, 2mm caster, stock spring (one coil removed)
- Yokomo*, shim under pivot, 2 0-rings under rear of the pod, stiff spring

* Keep chunking the Ufra because of the bouncing problems.

Car goes good enough, but sometimes it steppes out in the back ( starts bounce in corner )

So what I see in the suggestions:
- try tubing in the front
- try removing shim under rear pivot

Maybe also try weight in the back ? or other suggestions

[stevo16v]

Originally Posted by janus_77

We run "Mardave Unlimited" which means we dont use 1c batteries but 2c. Mine is placed over the length of the chassis.

setup:
- Jap 40, front strut brace, 2mm caster, stock spring (one coil removed)
- Yokomo*, shim under pivot, 2 0-rings under rear of the pod, stiff spring

* Keep chunking the Ufra because of the bouncing problems.

Car goes good enough, but sometimes it steppes out in the back ( starts bounce in corner )

So what I see in the suggestions:
- try tubing in the front
- try removing shim under rear pivot

Maybe also try weight in the back ? or other suggestions

are u using a diff

[janus_77]

Originally Posted by stevo16v

are u using a diff

Tried with and without, a diff helps a little. But it's by no real solution

[stevo16v]

the diff should help alot run it as loose as possible just before it slips,dont tighten ur rear wheel nuts up full as it will make the diff bind ,turn the wheel nuts the wrong way around this helps
if u run small tyres on the back the chassis will botton out in corners
are u sure ur additive is not attacking ur wheel tape or glue ,its common for it to soften the adesive or glue so when u corner the tyre peels slightly and will let the back end snag then brake away and chunk, try running ur thumb across the tyre see if it lifts from the rim

[Fast Eddie]

possible daft question but is a standard motor always used?

[Chequered Flag Racing]

Originally Posted by stevo16v

the diff should help alot run it as loose as possible just before it slips,dont tighten ur rear wheel nuts up full as it will make the diff bind

A tight wheel rim fitment onto the diff side of the axle also makes the diff bind up. This is because it's a solid axle and the diff side wheel needs to spin freely on the axle. As mentioned above don't tighten down the nut as this will make it bind up even if the wheel is free to rotate on the axle. I reamed my new rim out so it was free but older ones should rotate freely.

[Chequered Flag Racing]

Front End Droop

racing 12th pan cars we run a little droop circa 0.5mm

do the Mardave's need some??

[mattJT]

Hi all

Still sorting out my 2nd hand mardave v12 - was wondering what difference would it make not having the rear guide pin and screws in the motor mount?

Noticed recently that they weren't there so ordered a new rear guide pin, however today when attempting to fit it realised that the oval piece of plastic that the rear guide pin actually goes into is not there either, so would it make much difference if I just don't use it?


cheers
matt

[stox217]

Yes,

The motor pod can move sideways without it, you will also need an O ring inside the oval shaped bit that screws onto the motor pod, not essential but recommended.

[mattJT]

Originally Posted by stox217

Yes,

The motor pod can move sideways without it, you will also need an O ring inside the oval shaped bit that screws onto the motor pod, not essential but recommended.

Cheers Stox

Ordered the O rings a while ago too, so had them waiting to go - in terms of the movement though, wouldn't the screws that hold the rear springs in prevent any sideways movement?

(can't seem to find the part number for the oval piece of plastic, just the new motor plate itself )


edit: oh, I think I see what you mean now.....the way that the car was set up when I received it was wrong then, as the rear screws that hold the springs in place actually bolted through the chassis (probably to make up for the fact that the rear guide pin and screws weren't there) thus holding the motor plate to the chassis......


So, what my original question should have asked then, will be there be any real difference if the rear motor plate is bolted on via the rear spring screws - rather than by using the rear guide pin? recognise the current way means that the rear springs are actually redundant - so there's my answer then I suppose

[Chequered Flag Racing]

Mounting Foams

Here's my efforts

which tape do you use?

Duct tape from B&Q which I've had for a while now is very much the same as the one supplied by Mardave which I though't I'd try. Mardave's tape is rim width but it's no hard ship to cut the B&Q one doanw once on the rim.

MuchMore racing have a tape out, any good?

there's an audio swap ongoing so will change soon I hope

[bald eagle]

Great vid yet again. Ive been using evo stick for years.... as you so rightly put it, it can indeed be rayther messy. Will give this method a try soon. Thanks again.

[Chequered Flag Racing]

Originally Posted by bald eagle

Great vid yet again.

thanks

just don't do this in the kitchen like I did if your partners in the house

Mounted some softs to front rims using the above method and thought I wreck them getting them off to put harder foams on but the softs peeled of without tearing so I should be able to re-use them.

[Chequered Flag Racing]

Originally Posted by Chequered Flag Racing

just don't do this in the kitchen like I did if your partners in the house

and don't watch the video when their next to you like I just did

got away with it as she didn't recognise her kitchen