|
||
|
 |
|
||||||||||||||||||
|
#1
25-08-2012
|
|||
|
|||
M-05 motor choice
Hello. Ive been looking through this thread and havent found much on the trusty M-05 so if this belongs in a better section please tell me and i'll ask for it to be moved. But anyway im planning on racing ,my tamiya m05 on an indoor carpet track and would like a good motor for it. I was thinking this http://www.modelsport.co.uk/etronix-...roducts/369088 would 17t be to much of an upgrade from the stock 27t silver can (im not a first time racer, i usually stick to 10th scale buggies every week) And also does anyone make foam tyres for the mini wheels? Thanks for reading
|
|
#2
25-08-2012
|
||||
|
||||
|
Are there any rules for the Mini class at the track?
We have some pretty popular Mini classes in this part of the world. The motor rule at a few of the clubs is the HPI Saturn 20 which suits the cars very well and runs for ages with no maintenance. Because it is labelled, I have never seen anyone try to cheat by putting a plain-can vacuum cleaner motor in the car (like I have seen in silvercan classes). The Saturn 27 is probably a decent motor too, but similar in speed to a kit silvercan. Mini's with too much power stop being fun because they can't put the power down. Tyres-wise, I think foams are horrible. A hassle to keep at a usable diameter and not easy to find for Mini's either. Rubber tyres are the way to go, we have found that the Sweep pre-mounts work very well on carpet, 25s on the rear, fronts to get the right handling balance (33s or 40s are my current preference). There are also plenty of people out there making good use of the Tamiya tyres, but they are quite expensive and not so easy to find from UK stock. Tamiya Mini's are a great club class for small indoor tracks. Look great, manageable speed, fun to drive, and relatively cheap.
|
|
#3
26-08-2012
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
 So would a 17t motor be to much in a mini then? Dont want to ruin the fun (biggest reason i got for the fun). Any advice on the fastest way to get round the tight corners? In the buggy i'd usually brake as i turn and flick the back end round but im assuming the mini will be completely different? Thanks
|
|
#4
26-08-2012
|
||||
|
||||
|
I doubt the 17t motor you mention is that much faster than a Saturn 20. The Saturn 20 is pretty close to the limit of the car in my opinion, it's a proven performer and I would recommend it over the Etronix motor.
Cornering style in a Mini is very different to a rear-wheel drive car. You don't need to manhandle them through tight corners because they are small and will turn tight quite easily. What you do need to do is to get any braking done in a straight line before the corner, turn it in, and get on the power relatively early to transfer the weight back to the rear tyres, this will stop the back end from looping around. Tyres and the front diff setting are really, really important important in a Mini. A tighter diff than the kit gear diff makes the car a lot easier to drive, it stops the front end from hooking in the corners and gives you more consistent traction out of the corners. The Tamiya TA03 diff is probably the easiest to use - just build it and fit it and the car will be greatly improved. A lot of people use the 3Racing gear diff as well - it's an oil-filled unit so has a different feel in the car to the ball diff. The 3Racing diff needs a lot of running in before use because the o-ring seals are too stiff, but once run in, something around #50k to #100k oil should be a good starting point. Shocks and springs are not very important, but the car runs a lot better with oil filled shocks (preferably Tamiya) and short Tamiya springs. My blog is full of guff on setting up a Mini, I've dedicated most of the last two years to them! Mine runs like a 4wd tourer, very easy to drive fast.
|
 |
|
|
Tamiya
Linear Mode
