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Old 07-04-2009
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Default 2WD buggy build

As i have seen alot of you have been duilding your own buggy's, so i thought ide have a go my self.

so hear is what i have done so far.

1. i found a company on ebay selling carbon fiber and bought a sheet. it is a 1.8mm matt finnish,



2. i have decided to use the rear end of the Kyosho lazer zx-5 and at this point i has unshure on what to use as the front end.



3. I did find the carbon easy to cut with a metal jigsaw bit. and due to the thinness i have used i will probabley use a top deck or at least a a streanthening beam down the center.
I then decided to use the front end off a B4 buggy 'thanks Jez' and cut it down to sute.



4. Now i have done this i shaped the front of the chassis to fit my buggy.





One of the Guys from southport club will be machning the bottom of the B4 front out buy 1.8mm so it wrapps arround the bottom of the chassis and givs a smooth 'belly'. that is what is next to come.
here a a couple of pics of the layout i will be uing for the buggy.





as i do more i will put the pics up and keep you guys informed on the work in progress.
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Old 07-04-2009
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1.8mm may well be a tad on the optomistic side there fella, but good on you for having a go!!
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Old 07-04-2009
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Lee, you'd be better using a gt2 nose piece instead of going to the trouble of having parts machined, plus you'd be able to get spares.

this is the part you should use... http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...RC10GT2/Detail
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Old 07-04-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DCM View Post
1.8mm may well be a tad on the optomistic side there fella, but good on you for having a go!!

was thinking the same.

have you got enough material to double up maybe?

good luck in your venture though

jono
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Old 07-04-2009
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As already said, 1.8mm is a bit thin.

Defintiely need a top deck.
Would suggest using 2 layers sandwiched together down the centre of the chassis.

Main issue will be if you're using countersink screws.

The countersink needs to be 2mm deep for the screw head to sit flush.

You can just about get away with 2mm carbon fibre but 2.4mm thick is the ideal.

Also I think at 1.8mm thick your spur gear will stick out below the chassis!

What does your lipo weigh?

You will need to add weight around the back of the chassis to get a sensible front to rear weight split.
You also need to get the left to right weight distribution correct.


Best way I found was to use a light lipo and put lead behind it. (This means moving the servo to one side and the lipo forward a bit.)

Leave a bit of width in the chassis so you can add lead at the back.

(I didn't when I built my zx5 / xxx hybrid and getting ballast in the right places is tricky.)

Not sure what version of the zx5 your using, but on the SP wishbones if you flip them over it moves the rear wheels forward and helps with rear weight bias.
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Old 07-04-2009
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hi guys thanks for the imput. the chassis will go thicker but im using this as a template, ind i got it cheep enough, i will be putting a strenthening beam down the center of the car using a 5mm square pice of ally.

i havent decided wether i will use the ep or sp suspenshion as of yet. or rin a short shock setup on the rear to keep a low profile or not.
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Old 13-04-2009
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hear is a update on what is going on.

i have borrowed i couple of bits from my other car and got the back part nearly done



Tony from srcc has milled the B4 front to lip over the front of the carbon to give a smooth bottom







over the next week or so i am going to get the front built up and custom make the front and rear shock towers
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Old 13-04-2009
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What's going on with the rear gearbox?

Would strongly recommend going back to the standard layshaft arrangement and fitting the slipper clutch.
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Old 13-04-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmax View Post
a smooth bottom
Haha , sorry i had to

As said though, i would of gone with the gt2 front end.

Keep us posted
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Old 14-04-2009
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it will have a slipper fitted eveually just waiting for bury regonal to speek to jez
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