Tamiya's TRF501X Buggy on production! Soon

[neiloliver]

I wish people would not throw element names around like this...

Lithium polymer cells can have either Lithiated Cobalt Dioxide or Manganese dixiode electrodes... there is no such thing as LiMn... that dont make sense! the same as there is not LiPo.. "LiPo" sounds like a new name for a Teletubby...

sorry, im ranting again...

Using cells with Manganese does make sense though, they are safer than Cobalt systems and cheaper. Moli Energy of Canada use this, but only in their cylindrical cells, not polymer as far as i am aware.

I think we are getting off the thread, this will be chucked into the electrical section.. sorry Jimmy...

N

[PaulRotheram]

We could actually maybe use some of this discussion in the future, Jimmy is doing a review of lipos and brushless so some of this could be of use around the time when it is released

[Colinevan]

True... Personally i see Lipo and brushless as the way forward..

Brushless is getting reliable now, and im sure that lipo's will become safer and cheaper in the future.

I remember havnig nothing but hassle with my first brushless, my new unit is perfect... same as lipo's im sure with the trak power or the orion becoming popular.. that something like the lipo sack will aid with safety and hence virtually maintenance free racing coupled with long lasting battery racing fun...

Nuff said..

[PaulRotheram]

in the future, back to tamiya

[Key]

I couldn't bother with brushed technology and nickels. The future is now. It's been steady for quite a number of years.

Folks let's focus on the 501x.

[Captain Harlock]

Anyone knows if its possible to use the AE aluminum caps on the Aerational dampers?
It seems that it'll fit. Just need to confirm.

[jimmy]

I tried some plastic caps and they did fit but felt a little loose, I didn't tighten them up too much as I didn't want them to strip. The plastic caps are better imo though, better seal and don't look naff when you roll the car and scratch them up!

[Captain Harlock]

Yeah, you're right.

[B4james]

Hi All,


I have just finished building mine and have two questions I'm sure people on here that have built one could answer

1. what weight oil is supplied with the kit (yellow tamiya soft) is it 40W?

2. I have minor slop in the front wheels which appears to be the rim possibly rocking on the small hex or the uni inside the bearings , is this normal? it is only minor but going on how the rest of the car is solid and slop free I was dissapointed with this but maybe I am being a fussy B. ( I do have the correct spacer in between the bearings before anyone asks)

Cheers

James

[jimmy]

Not sure what that slop might be but mine has some slop in the steering which mostly seems to come from the servo saver - I think I can see myself running a solid servo horn on this car, the kit servo saver feels too soft.

[B4james]

this is more so at the wheel and not in the steering as it also does it with the camber as well as the steering.

It isn't happening in the Chub or bearing holder as they are not moving. It has to be either the hex adaptor or from bearings/axle shaft movement

[B4james]

Originally Posted by jimmy

Not sure what that slop might be but mine has some slop in the steering which mostly seems to come from the servo saver - I think I can see myself running a solid servo horn on this car, the kit servo saver feels too soft.

I put the kimbrough server saver on mine and works well,

[STEWART]

The hex drive can go on two ways i put mine beveled side in towards the car and flat side towards wheel , mayby try that my wheels have no slop in them.

[jimmy]

it should have the pin exposed on the outside

[bender]

Originally Posted by B4james

this is more so at the wheel and not in the steering as it also does it with the camber as well as the steering.

It isn't happening in the Chub or bearing holder as they are not moving. It has to be either the hex adaptor or from bearings/axle shaft movement

I noticed the same thing with mine. What I found was that because the pin runs through the hex, when you bolt the wheel on the hex moves back only slightly until it's tight against the pin, but it isnt far back enough to to lock into the bearing/spacer assembly. So there is still some play there.

I just put one of the 0.2mm shims between the outer bearing and the hex and it fixed the problem because it takes up the slack between the hex and the bearing/spacer assembly. So when you tighten the wheel, the whole bearing-spacer-bearing-shim-hex assembly becomes tightened as one unit, as it is supposed to be.

[B4james]

Thanks Bender,

Do you have the pin visible through the hex as jimmy mentioned or with the flat side out?

Also is the 400 tamiya yellow soft oil simply 40wt?

[DCM]

Tamiya oil is soft, just use regular shock oil...

[jimmy]

I confess I didn't use that cooking oil they supply but soft must be lighter than 40wt ?
either way, 40wt is a hard oil for off road anyway (depending on the car of course).
I have 35 and 25 (front rear) with 3 and 1 pistons (going by AE numbers, 3=smallest, 1=biggest), the 35 is a bit too hard and will probably change to 30 before it hits the track

I took an overhead photo of this car against bathys BX (thanks bathy, I will try get it off tomorrow for you) and the only real difference in the cars is the cells being further back in the 501X by a few mm. Someone mentioned a new chassis with cells further forward- which would make sense.

[B4james]

so what kit piston numbers would you recommend for the front and rear shocks, I am planning to run 30w front and 25w rear

[jimmy]

Like I said, probably best with the same combo that worked in the BJ4we- smallest hole piston front and largest in the rear. The manual setting is the middle sized piston front and rear.

Thats my starting setup anyway, with blue front and green rear AE springs (everything else as per kit setting)