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Old 26-02-2012
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LongRat LongRat is offline
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Default What are the differences between the kits?

Ok so on the Mardave site we have many kits listed. I'm going to buy one for circuit use, and I have had one before but stupidly sold it. However it isn't clear at all what the spec differences are between the cars even though I'm familiar with Mardaves.
A V12 race kit is £60, so what's the difference between that and the 'Sam Gray' VRX? Looks like a set of bearings, teflon hinge pins and a set of springs. This kit goes for £90. You can buy those separate items for less than £30 to upgrade from the £60 kit. So what are the other differences to make it worth the extra? And who is Sam Gray?

Then we have the VRX-CE. Fibreglass chassis, otherwise I can't see the difference between this and the Sam Gray edition. Is this right? What about it makes it better for circuit racing? I don't think any of these kits include a diff - is this accurate?
The site needs more information and the pictures need to accurately reflect the products. These are niggling questions that slightly spoil the fact that the cars are pretty good and cheap. A little more polish on the already greatly improved web site is all that is needed.

If somebody could answer my questions I will be able to make the choice on what kit to go for. Also no pics of the included bodies either...
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Old 26-02-2012
chris4x chris4x is offline
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I have had the vrx ce since xmas and its brilliant a great improvement over the older models, the difference between the sam gray is obvs the chassis material but also comes with a kick up plate on the front to which the wishbones attach this plate is attached via 5 bolts you can adjust the camber by adjust the bolt in the middle. its does not come with a diff and i have never run with one as im in standard so cant see the need for it. it also comes with a damper tube for the rear pod but again in satndard not sure it makes a great deal of difference. with the kit mine cam with 48dp spur with alloy hub and thats also great seems very sturdy and have had no stripping of gears or horrid noises all in all the CE versions are awsome they now also do the ce in carbon too i now have the carbon kick up plate as my fibreglass one had 4 holes for slightly different wheelbase but this broke easily the carbon version only has two and seems alot more sturdy. hope this helps
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Old 26-02-2012
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LongRat LongRat is offline
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Ok Chris thanks for your input, that helps.
I think I would still like to get the diff but maybe I'll buy the CE get the diff after trying it solid first. When I ran the standard V12 I noticed a huge change when I installed the diff, much better on power out of tight corners and less tyre wear. Lap times were considerably faster. I hope they all come with the 48DP gears too, that's what I would go for. Also the carbon chassis version sounds good, but I don't see it on the web site?
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Old 26-02-2012
chris4x chris4x is offline
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no probs i cant comment on the diff as never ran it, mine came stock with the 48dp so should come with it. best bet is ring them up chris is a great help im sure he'll make sure you get what your after.
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Old 04-03-2012
tworrs tworrs is offline
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I also have the VRX ce ,and its been a lot hassle. it stripped the 48dp spur gear after 1 night of racing,my floating plate broke ,which mardave kindly replaced,now my 32dp spur gear has broke after 1 nights racing,the parts are just rubbish.too weak,was actually thinking about ditching the GRP chassis,and going to get a metal or alloy one,everyone else seems to race these ones. I'm the only one with a VRX ce,its not really great advert
if it keeps breaking,as a newcomer to these mardaves they are great fun close racing but a nightmare to keep going,was thinking about going brushless but I'm in two minds just now =-O
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Old 04-03-2012
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TOMO WEF TOMO WEF is offline
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Hi tworrs the components aren't weak at all. Normally it is operator error and I mean that in a helpful way.
The gears will strip if you fail to mesh them correctly eg not too tight and not so loose that the teeth can slip when u pull the pinnion and spur gear apart. There are loads of really good Mardave how to style vids on you tube so have a look around unless someone can pop a link up?

The next thing to do is to put a bumper on the front of your car that almost wraps around the front of the car protecting your a frames and it keeps things from. Ending giving you a more consistent car so you can concentrate on honing your driving to the point you can do a clean race then start trying to go faster rather than chasing issues.

As for going brushless, stick with what you have got at the moment. Brushless is very very even with regards to how fast the cars are in a straight line (13.5 1s no boost) all geared at roughly 65mpr.
I do love the no need to buy a new motor every 4-5 meetings and no running in blah blah and with 1s lipo there's no need to balance cells on a tray just charge and go. I even managed an entire club night getting tq and the win by over a lap using the same 6200mah lipo all night all on one charge as I had forgotten aload of my stuff doh!
All that said brushed is still good close fun but requires more running maintenance to keep your gear in competitive shape.
I would master what you have first then move on when you are ready, most who get the bug end up with a brushed car and a brushless car as they don't want to ruin their brushed car
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Old 04-03-2012
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LongRat LongRat is offline
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Good advice. Mardave parts definitely are NOT weak. These are some of the toughest RCs out there so you are either crashing very hard or something isn't set up right.
Get it going well with your brushed set up first. Unless you are using the mechanical speed control, this is a total waste of time because it makes the car harder to drive, heavier and is actually more expensive than a cheap brushed ESC. I have no idea why Mardave persist with it.
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Old 02-10-2012
Rossi25rc Rossi25rc is offline
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Tworrs the vrx ce is a circuit racer not a banger racer. :-)
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