Binding issues - Page 2

telboy · #21 19-10-2009

Ahh, Could it be that the gear wasn't on/seated level then? Probably that.

trap121 · #22 19-10-2009

Not sure....it looked like it was pretty level.

Maybe Adam will see the video and know what it is???

trap121 · #23 22-10-2009

In just finished building the diffs again and I'm having the same issue. Here is a video. I'm not using any brake or drag brake to stop the wheels

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aKbtbqYjTPY

Would the amount of grease between the diff pinion and diff cause this?

MALLET · #24 22-10-2009

Try another video for us but this time wind all your droop screws down so your shafts are level.

trap121 · #25 22-10-2009

Driving it on the street is does not come to a complete stop like that. That would be equivelent to adding droop while its on a stand right?

That still does not explain the heat problems I am having. 2-3 minutes esc was 150 motor was 120ish!

Anyone have some suggestions?

GRIFF55 · #26 22-10-2009

did you check the wheel bearings after?

trap121 · #27 22-10-2009

yep. bearings are fine.

I dont know what to do about the heat

Northy · #28 22-10-2009

Did you fit the little ali crush tubes between the bearings in the hubs?

G

trap121 · #29 22-10-2009

yep, put them in the front and rear

MALLET · #30 23-10-2009

Trap are you getting excessive heat while just plodding around the house or a short track?

trap121 · #31 23-10-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by MALLET

Trap are you getting excessive heat while just plodding around the house or a short track?

My esc gets up to 150 after 3 minutes of driving on the street

Balders · #32 23-10-2009

I'm no Rango expert but try the same test as your vid with the wheels removed see if its binding then, if it is remove the driv shafts and try again. if you get the same effect remove the front diff and vice versa until you find where the binding is coming from.

Its would be a process of elimination I would have thought.

Hope you find it!

Mike

MALLET · #33 23-10-2009

Are you getting full throttle for a few seconds?

The binding is from the droop thats normal. Don't worry about that and the clicking is your pinion gear on your spur its too loose.

samd · #34 23-10-2009

My durango took a couple of meetings to free up and make sure you dont tighten the front wheels too much and crush the crunch spacer a bit and make the bearings bind, they are only soft.

samd · #35 23-10-2009

Might also be worth gearing down a bit - i ran 10/1 with a 5.5 in a pred x11 and am now at nearly 11/1 with the same motor in the durango at the same temps.

trap121 · #36 23-10-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by samd

Might also be worth gearing down a bit - i ran 10/1 with a 5.5 in a pred x11 and am now at nearly 11/1 with the same motor in the durango at the same temps.

10/1, 11/1??? Are you talking about 10 and 11t pinions?

bigred5765 · #37 23-10-2009

i think he might mean gear ratio

samd · #38 23-10-2009

Yea gear ratios 10 to 1 in the pred and about 11 to 1 in the durango

rcardoso · #39 25-10-2009

trap, try one thing. Dont know well how to explain but here it goes.
You have 2 bearings next to the pinion, right? Try to give the most distance between then by unscrewing the 310027 part a little push it far from the pinion and screw it again.
Say if it worked.

trap121 · #40 25-10-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by rcardoso

trap, try one thing. Dont know well how to explain but here it goes.
You have 2 bearings next to the pinion, right? Try to give the most distance between then by unscrewing the 310027 part a little push it far from the pinion and screw it again.
Say if it worked.

I have already tried to push the bearings as far apart as possible. It didnt do anything to stop the binding.

I took everything apart piece by piece and found that the shims in the front diff and spur (side connecting front drive shaft) needed to be removed. Those are the only things that made a difference. It is a little smoother but not much. My temps are still high but it takes a little longer to reach 5-6 led's