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#1
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Durga DB01 Help
hey guys, im going to run a 6.5-8.5t durga to race an bash, i will race when i have time and so want it to be quick yet strong.
what hopups to get? at the moment these are what im thinking: slipper atomiccarbon shock towers trf shocks alu suspention blocks hex screws dont know what else? thanks |
#2
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TRF501 diff outdrives!!
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#3
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ima newbie, please link or part number please?
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#4
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Add in some titanium turnbuckles and some alloy wheel hexes. Make sure you speak to someone who's running this car for the correct gear ratios. If i think of anything else i'll post buddy.
Scotty...
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#5
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kit turnbuckles will do, mine are still straight after 2 1/2 years.... and alloy hexes are not needed, Losi/B44 wheels will also fit on the kit axles.
51286 for diff outdrives.
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#6
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why are they so important? wouldnt getting cvd's be as expensive but better?
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#7
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Running a 6.5 or 8.5, your going to make a mess of the kit outdrives. CVD's are also needed fot running mod!
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#8
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fot running mod? :/
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#9
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The only things I had were:
TRF dampers Slipper One way front diff (personal preference) 501X metal rear diff halves Hex Screw set (Tonys scewz) I never had the alloy suspension hangers - if you shim the arms and use metal balls in the holders then there's little chance of them popping out. The metal rear diff is essential - good idea to get one for the front if you're using a diff up front but it's the rear that gets the most abuse. There's a lot of info on here already about what to upgrade and of course people have differing opinions. The thing I liked about the DB01 was its price and spending too much on it wouldn't make it fun for me so I stuck with a mostly plastic car and simple dogbone driveshafts all round and it was brilliant.
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If your PM doesn't at first succeed - try, try again. I'll reply in the end, honest. |
#10
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Quote:
by metalrear diff you mean this? http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=51286 |
#11
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I always ran plastic - but if I had the money I'd have liked a couple of alloy hangers on there. Yes that's the diff joint you need - don't be tempted by any 3rd party nonsense, get the real Tamiya diff halves.
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If your PM doesn't at first succeed - try, try again. I'll reply in the end, honest. |
#12
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Quote:
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#13
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Quote:
I'd definitely recommend the alu suspension mounts, and a set of metal suspension balls (TA50994). Don't think I've had an arm pop out since putting those on. As far as gear ratio goes, you'll probably want around a 19-21 tooth pinion depending on what motor you get. You'll also find a ta05 carbon battery strap (TA53884) will help if you want to put a beefy lipo in. Either that or go mad with a dremel on the chassis . |
#14
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Quote:
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#15
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I'd probably stick about a 19t on an 8.5.
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#16
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what about for a 6.5t?
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#17
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I'm running the kit 23t on my 6.5 speed passion on short astro track (Kidderminster) put a 25t on it for longer, straighter astro track (Coventry)
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