rc8bE / rc8.2E setup help and weight distribution

levontraut · #1 13-11-2012

Hi guys.

i have a rc8bE with a bunch of upgrades (8.2 shock towers, arms etc...)

now yesterday was my first time out on the track with it and the first thing i niticed on the big jumps is when ever i did it, it went to it's side from the weight from the lipos.

is there any advice on what to do and set it up that t does nto do that again please?? it is realy painfull when it was doing that. what i did try and do to counter it, was turn the wheels slightly and blip the throttle but that just made it worse.

so what are you guys doing to sort this out please??

i will upload a pic of the car as soon as i have taken it out the car and uploaded it.

befor you ask, yes my wheels are straight when i aproche the jumps and everything is ligned up.

BTW: what are you guys useing to see the weight diffrence of front and rear and left and right??

cheers
levon

Nas · #2 13-11-2012

Right,what you want is:

All the Associated team drivers run the OLD wing mount its longer than the new rc8.2 one. Longer means its more stable.

Vortex rc wing,again all the team boys run these.

Ghea 1.3 times 8 pistons all around.

Shock oil, 37.5 front, 32.5 rear, zero rebound.

Kyosho light blue springs. Or light blue spring in the front and orange kyosho spring in the back.

Diff oils, 5,5,3 or 2. Experiment.

I'm also running GHEA C and D plates and rear aluminium hubs.Gives the rear end increased traction.

Let me know if this helps!

I've been testing this car for 1 year.And i can say its brilliant. With the wing upgrade its glides through the air very smoothly.

Also run a 18t pinion. If your running a 2100kv or below.

HOTSHOT III · #3 13-11-2012

Lev,

A lot of 1/10th guys use stick on wheel balance weights which you can get from kwik-fit etc.

Just walk straight into the workshop area and offer a few quid to the 1st spotty youth you see, they usually just let you take as many as you want.

With the increased space you have on a 1/8th i'd imagine you can probably add 50-100 grams to the side that's lifting when the car is airborne.

Have any other 1/8th electric racers done this?

levontraut · #4 13-11-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by NASIR

Right,what you want is:

All the Associated team drivers run the OLD wing mount its longer than the new rc8.2 one. Longer means its more stable.

Vortex rc wing,again all the team boys run these.

Ghea 1.3 times 8 pistons all around.

Shock oil, 37.5 front, 32.5 rear, zero rebound.

Kyosho light blue springs. Or light blue spring in the front and orange kyosho spring in the back.

Diff oils, 5,5,3 or 2. Experiment.

I'm also running GHEA C and D plates and rear aluminium hubs.Gives the rear end increased traction.

Let me know if this helps!

I've been testing this car for 1 year.And i can say its brilliant. With the wing upgrade its glides through the air very smoothly.

Also run a 18t pinion. If your running a 2100kv or below.

that is pretty much my setup as it is. i how ever did have the rear to high and the rear was just to twitchy on the day and forgot to lower it. as in the votrex wing... i am not running that just yet. the wing will not help me in the air with it wanting to tun to the side so this is more of a weight distribution problem with the lipos on the one side and the motor and rx box on the other. (left and right hand side weight is all off)

Quote:

Originally Posted by HOTSHOT III

Lev,

A lot of 1/10th guys use stick on wheel balance weights which you can get from kwik-fit etc.

Just walk straight into the workshop area and offer a few quid to the 1st spotty youth you see, they usually just let you take as many as you want.

With the increased space you have on a 1/8th i'd imagine you can probably add 50-100 grams to the side that's lifting when the car is airborne.

Have any other 1/8th electric racers done this?

cheers Alex.
i will look into that.

HOTSHOT III · #5 13-11-2012

Also I was thinking, whereabouts on the track was this rolling in the air happening?

After a year of racing at SCRC i've only just learnt (yes I know) to stay low over the big tabletop near the rostrum and try and land on the landing ramp as much as you can (don't try and jump it like a truggy). It's deceptive because slowing down before you hit it makes you feel like you're not trying hard enough but in reality it means you can get the power on sooner and be faster after the jump (because you land sooner) and the car rolls less because it spends less time in the air. I know with the Vorza if I try and carry every bit of corner speed I have over that jump it just goes sideways on takeoff and, er, hits the rostrum

Also on the small double before the main straight, i've found the best way to approach this is to take it easy through the right/left kink leading up to it, try and get as close as possible to the apex on the left, square the turn off and then punch the gas, this makes you hit the jump straighter. I was marshalling there Sunday and buggy drivers that were trying to corner and clear the double at the same time were always barrel rolling and ending up in the tyres, it was happening to nitros as well just because they still had cornering forces stored in the car when it took off.

With the quad jump I don't really know what to suggest other than to hit it as straight as possible, I used to be a bit faster through the approach hairpin before they were there but I find to get a really good shot at doing 3-and-1 you have to go a bit deeper into that corner and spend a bit more time straightening up. Hope this helps, it should because your battery/motor/ESC layout is basically the same as mine.

levontraut · #6 13-11-2012

Yes m8. I am tslking about the big jump by the rostrom. Also clanfield has the big tripple jumo and it will also do it there if it is doing it on the smaller jump of the two