|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
Ally X-6²
Seeing that everybody is sticking weights on their car, I thought I might as well put the weight to use (+ the fact I can't resist tinkering on my cars)
chassis has exactly the same dimensions as the original; made from 8mm ally; seperate kick-up which slots into the chassis; rear arms axels now attached 501x/durango style; made on a conventional mill all commentary welcome |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
Wow...
Some impressive work there. |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
I like it nice work Let us know how it performs when you get it on the track! You doing your own shell or how are you mounting the standard one?
__________________
Custom MG-Racing Associated DMS |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
Hey man! Great work. Nice touch with saddle pack configuration. Think saddles are going to be more popular with car manufactures in the future. Slimmer chassis with better weight distribution. Think all the coming cars will be "lipo ready" with no need to fit old cells at all.
Impressed with your work. Got the same idea for a RB5. Keep them pics coming and good luck Alex |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
Wowey Wow Wow. Thats some excelent machining.
__________________
Mark Dyson Clown |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
wow wow that is a nice car and i like your chassis
|
#7
|
||||
|
||||
I think this is the way Team Associated are gonna go with the next RC10. Seems to make sense, low down weight bringing the weight back up to the limit, car design going full circle it seems!
|
#8
|
||||
|
||||
Thanks for the comments.
Shell will be my first attempt at a coke bottle body. For the moment, I'm looking for a starting set-up for ae shocks - not so easy to find seeing most people are running Losi shocks on an X6 - any help is appreciated Btw: chassis is 136 gr heavier than a X6 - not miles of what most seem to add in extra weight |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
By looking at the work you have done so far I am convinced your coke shell will be just as good
|
#10
|
||||
|
||||
hi i see that the most of you here try to make their bodys with coke bottles.
I have a little company here in germany and we make unique custom moulds for confectionerys and restaurants. and we make body and wide body kits for 1/10 rc drift cars ( at the moment we make a "carnage" style body kit ), and next year we will make some shells mainly for the b4. for making our custom moulds we use VIVAC ( sry dont know the english word ) and a vacuum thermoformin unit , i know not everyone can spend the money for such tools but there a many easy ways to get a near 100 % result especially for offroad shells. for example we did our first moulds like this, u need a lot of fine tuning with the temperature but if u got it , it will work very well. @the ae shocks don t know why everyone uses losi shocks if u build them correctly u will have no problems with leaky shocks http://users.telenet.be/elvo/12/8/1.html sorry for my english, hope it helps pm if u need some more details
__________________
Associated B4 - Genius 90 - Vector x12 7,5t Kyosho TF-5 DRIFT - Genius 90 - GM 13.5t blue DX3R |
#11
|
||||
|
||||
Very nice machine work there sir
|
#12
|
||||
|
||||
@ raine : looks simple enough in the vid, but I suppose in reality it's a little more complicated
I built my shocks à la Elvo yesterday, as it happens; I was just having trouble finding an X6 set up for asso shocks, thats all. Any pics of the wide body kits? Just out of intrest - used to be into drifting in a big way, you see |
#13
|
||||
|
||||
hey
sorry we have only some prototypes , i will show them if we have them ready for sale i know its easy to make wide body kits , but for that u have to buy another body and thats a bit expensive , so we make it cheaper. and we have the oppurtunity to make porsche wide body parts fit on an citroen ax ^^ but i can take some photos from some of the carnage parts for my soarer. @ vacuum thermoforming , a year ago we found a very very good guide how to build such a forming box on youtube , but i can t find it ;(
__________________
Associated B4 - Genius 90 - Vector x12 7,5t Kyosho TF-5 DRIFT - Genius 90 - GM 13.5t blue DX3R |
#14
|
||||
|
||||
Very nice!
Just a thought....next time leave a little rib in the middle between cells have you got the bug now....i love milling out new designs... well done
__________________
|
#15
|
||||
|
||||
@ raine : If you can remember where to find the vid, I would be very interested
@ rebel : why the rib ? for longtitudinal stiffness ? As for being bitten by the bug : that happened a long time ago. Until recently only bigscale stuff. Been admiring your stuff for some time here ; in fact it was that what made me start on this one |
#16
|
||||
|
||||
cheers Mate
Rib= not so much for stiffness but to stop it bending in a massive shunt..and losing all that hard work.....i suppose it depends on how thick the bottom plate is.......on my B4 it was only 0.3 mm thick ( or thin shall we say ) i just felt my way with the dimentions being experienced with the tried and tested Durango If it was ok for Gerd it was ok for me....lol
__________________
|
#17
|
||||
|
||||
did you machine the front kick up or bend it?
__________________
|
#18
|
||||
|
||||
Teehee... Maybe he tweaked it.
Obvious joke. |
#19
|
||||
|
||||
hammond you know everything
shame its all wrong...LOL GSXR1000 if you pm me your phone number and a convenient time i will phone you and tell you exactly (leymans terms) how to make a good pop bottle body easily.
__________________
|
#20
|
||||
|
||||
chassis sides are 8mm, I left 3mm on the bottom and 4mm under the tranny and the motor - kickup is milled as I don't have acces to bending tools : 4mm thick where it kicks up and then sort of slotted
Sorry 'bout the poor quality pics |
|
|