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  #21  
Old 20-10-2011
jcb jcb is offline
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Originally Posted by pugboy View Post
Would the springs from the xx4 do the trick? Think I have some of them in my box somewhere.. And what effect does cutting the bladders have?

Cheers

I would have thought the XX4 springs will be a touch small diameter and bind on the shafts rather than compress freely!

Found the easiest way to cut the bladders was to fold them in half and cut along the edge of the ring that sits on the shock body. Found they kept the car more settled on a bumpy rutted track, and were good for bad landings from jumps.



On the subject of grip I always found less anti squat gave the feeling of a more consistent level of grip, as there is less weight transfer. But equally doesn't square the car up so well when applying the power.
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  #22  
Old 20-10-2011
ottoswe ottoswe is offline
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Originally Posted by kayce View Post
That's pretty much dead-azz opposite to what the TLR team drivers over in the States have said.

are you gonna be racing it in the states or in europe?


try it for your self and see what happends
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  #23  
Old 20-10-2011
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Originally Posted by ottoswe View Post
are you gonna be racing it in the states or in europe?


try it for your self and see what happends
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  #24  
Old 20-10-2011
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Plain old theory tells me more antisquat gives more onpower grip, but less offpower grip, and less antisquat the opposite. That's about what every setup guide will tell you...

Either way, it's all about finding the balance. More antisquat in slippery conditions don't help shit when you already spun midturn
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  #25  
Old 20-10-2011
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Plain old theory tells me more antisquat gives more onpower grip, but less offpower grip, and less antisquat the opposite. That's about what every setup guide will tell you...

That's all I'm saying, I was thinking the other fellow might have been an Aussie and trying to say things worked opposite south of the equator (kinda like the toilet bowl swirls different).
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  #26  
Old 24-10-2011
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So, this sunday was dedicated to only testing some antisquat. I've been running 3 degrees, so I took it down to 1 degree. First turn felt great, I could really push it going into the turn, but on my way out where I needed to punch it for a jump - SPIN!

I think that on a track where you come fast coasting through sections and carry a lot of speed onto every jump, little antisquat is the way to go.

On my local track were all the jumps require me to be early on the throttle, more antisquat is better. I have to be a bit more cautious into the turns, but the gain is huge.

So there you have it. It's not just about low grip/high grip, but also low speed/high speed tracks...
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  #27  
Old 24-10-2011
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So Martin, are you running mid- or rear engine?
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  #28  
Old 24-10-2011
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So Martin, are you running mid- or rear engine?
Rear. Even on astro;-) I'll post my setup here later. You running the 22?
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  #29  
Old 24-10-2011
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nope, but a vega mid-motor b4, and wanted to see if I could "steal" some good ideas from you
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  #30  
Old 24-10-2011
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nope, but a vega mid-motor b4, and wanted to see if I could "steal" some good ideas from you
The vega could probably be made working okey, but with the lack of grip you'd be far better off with a standard B4, especially since you don't carry speed onto any of the jumps... Even if you manage all the jumps, I doubt that you can punch it to gain distance and speed when needed.

What I would try though, is getting the motor as far back as possible, as much in axis with the rear wheels as you can, and also a bunch of antisquat. Since the midmotors usually are more stable on corner entry, you can sacrifice some of that grip in making the car go forwards.

Even if you get that done, I think it will be a big compromise. But I'd love to see it in action though!!! :-)
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  #31  
Old 27-10-2011
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Thanks for the input, I will see whether I end up mid- or rear-engined, then... Judging by my driving skills, I think rear-engine might be the way to go, however; thats a bit boring
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  #32  
Old 27-10-2011
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Thanks for the input, I will see whether I end up mid- or rear-engined, then... Judging by my driving skills, I think rear-engine might be the way to go, however; thats a bit boring
Hey, our fullsize cars are rear-engined, remember?
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  #33  
Old 27-10-2011
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Hey, our fullsize cars are rear-engined, remember?
http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?q=sko...1t:429,r:4,s:0

?
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  #34  
Old 27-10-2011
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nope, but a vega mid-motor b4, and wanted to see if I could "steal" some good ideas from you
I thought this was a LOSI thread?
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  #35  
Old 27-10-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pugboy View Post
Well, not quite

This one's mine:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 34362_10150193295595261_795945260_13126664_351302_n.jpg (118.0 KB, 17 views)
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  #36  
Old 27-10-2011
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Originally Posted by kayce View Post
I thought this was a LOSI thread?
Yup, so let's quit the offtopicing boys!
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  #37  
Old 27-10-2011
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Well, not quite

This one's mine:
She's a beauty!

anyway, have you posted your latest Losi 22 set up yet?
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  #38  
Old 27-10-2011
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Originally Posted by pugboy View Post
She's a beauty!

anyway, have you posted your latest Losi 22 set up yet?
Thanks! Her name is Savannah:P

Here's my latest setup. It's dialled. There's always room for improvement, but I'm not sure what to improve on this one, on my track.

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  #39  
Old 27-10-2011
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And as I posted that, I know what I want to change.

I want a 75 spur or smaller, so I can have the motor more forwards. Also, going from an 8,5 to a 9,5 made a huge impact on the driveability, and still had more than enough power
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  #40  
Old 28-10-2011
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And as I posted that, I know what I want to change.

I want a 75 spur or smaller, so I can have the motor more forwards. Also, going from an 8,5 to a 9,5 made a huge impact on the driveability, and still had more than enough power
I also forgot, I'm running the +0,75mm hexes...
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