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  #201  
Old 03-05-2015
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Cheap core here
http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=167020
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  #202  
Old 04-05-2015
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Thanks for these lovely interview. I really enjoyed reading through.
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  #203  
Old 06-05-2015
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Hi chaps
I hope you are all well..
I have been quite, overseas at the moment working.
I have been looking online and I have seen a couple of things...
1 - the changing of the spur gear on my diff to allow a more centred motor mount, why did eagle eyes Mark and SlowOne not spot this on my photos!??? Shame on you

Secondly, angled servo mounts.. Do people still do this and if so, is something worth considering?

Best Wishes
Stuart
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  #204  
Old 06-05-2015
SlowOne SlowOne is offline
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Stu... the spur gear... I just thought you couldn't/didn't read the instructions!!

I've not done stand-up servo on my GT or Zen and not tried it. I used angled mounts on the original SS because it gave me the correct throw to the steering which I couldn't get from the lay-down servo position. Mark's GT cars are both lay-down, but he used stand-up on his SS.

Stand-up helps with initial turn in on 12th cars and was in universal use in the T-bar days (here) but it doesn't work with the modern link cars. HTH
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  #205  
Old 11-05-2015
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Hi All..
Long time no speak.. I've been away working, back again for a week and then on my hols.. Enough about me, lets talk GT12

So, the shopping list has been mounting, still not ordered replacement serve, didn't see much point as the race time for May is going to be very limited. I felt a shopping list could mount up so hit it hard once...

I have a question about the rear suspension mount i see on a few cars, its the purple colour thing with lots of holes in that runs above the droop screws it looks like.. Anyone know what this is and if I should invest?

All Best Stu
(SlowOne - choosing to ignore the wise crack about the diff and the instruction manual - nobody likes a smart arse!! )
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  #206  
Old 11-05-2015
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Hi Stu.
I think the part your refering to The purple bit is an upgrade on the older model the supastox, and not for the supastox GT.

BTW maritime have a new track from this thurs.
Hope work wasnt to stressfull and if we dont see you before your hols, hope you have a good one.

Shiny
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  #207  
Old 12-05-2015
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Hi Sam
Thanks that's useful... Had wondered as I hadn't seen them on many cars.
Work was good, long flights but home now so all is well again.
Wish I could make it to Maritime Thursday but it's just not going to happen for me sadly, itching to get racing again, and I'm away again the following week too for ten days! So it's going to be a while until I see the little girl run again...

Look forward to hearing how the new track at Maritime is, it's good they switch up and keep it fresh.

I went to track over new me (I won't name it) but it does show how good the likes of Maritime and West Kent are, with keeping it as little contact as possible. Can be so chaotic with contact and people's perception of car preservation!!

Anyhow, let me know what the track is like Thursday!

Hope the car runs well Sam for you and your lad.
Ps - sorry about the stray text!! Haha

Stu
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  #208  
Old 13-05-2015
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Hey Fellas
Quick question...
What's the difference between the 23T and 25T servo saver for the core RC servo? Which one don't need if I'm getting the Core RC Servo...?

Thanks in advance.
Stu
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  #209  
Old 13-05-2015
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For the core you'll need a 25T saver - it the number of teeth it's got to match up with the number of teeth on the spline of the servo (the core servo has 25 teeth on it).
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  #210  
Old 13-05-2015
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I4n you're a legend. Thank you.
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  #211  
Old 13-05-2015
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Stu the servo saver that came with the kit is 25T and should fit the coreRC servo.
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  #212  
Old 16-05-2015
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HI Lads

So I have the new servo..
Have the new thunder power motor, and I am still finding the speed is definitely less than others with the similar set up....
My driving got me my first second in a final (Not A final I might add) but a final at least.. Drove with great control and rhythm... The rhythm is definitely what I find the most influential to my driving skills..

I digress...

I saw a significant drop off in performance as the race went on.. I have my timing at 20 degrees with a roll out at around 69 so the motor was not getting overly hot.

I still haven't got myself some new lipos (one thing at a time, see I do listen to you lot!), I am still with the Orion 45C 1s.. I have the 1s Toro if you remember... The only thing I scan see is losing me top end is my lipo. Would this be the case? Otherwise, could it be my ESC surely not?

I am foxed...

Please help.

Look forward to hearing your thoughts.

Best Wishes
Stuart
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  #213  
Old 16-05-2015
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69 mm/rev is a bit low for 20deg timing. I'd be around 73/75 with that timing. If you don't have enough timing or enough load on a motor it can get as hot as if you too much timing and/or gearing.

Not used a TP before, but checking on the Schumacher website Chris Ashton was running one on 38deg timing at 69 mm/rev in a SupaStox. I'd try upping the timing in the same gearing and see what that gives you.

Yes the LiPo makes a difference. I have one that is excellent and one that isn't. The poor one is 0.2s a lap slower. Both are nearly new and raced only ten times, but still one is not as good as the other - replacements due!

However, don't assume that getting a new LiPo means you get a faster LiPo. Stick with what you have, get the most speed you can from the current equipment and then see if someone will loan you what they think is their best LiPo for a race. If you can't feel a difference to your Orions, keep the wallet closed!

If you are talking top end, then the speedo is not likely to be the culprit. Same thing applies - get to drive someone else's car with your LiPo in and see what that feels like.

Too much credence is given to assuming that if the car is "too slow" or "being passed by everyone else" then it must be something in the motor/cell/speedo when in fact it could simply be better driving or better set-up. Keep trying before you keep spending!
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  #214  
Old 16-05-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowOne View Post
69 mm/rev is a bit low for 20deg timing. I'd be around 73/75 with that timing. If you don't have enough timing or enough load on a motor it can get as hot as if you too much timing and/or gearing.

Not used a TP before, but checking on the Schumacher website Chris Ashton was running one on 38deg timing at 69 mm/rev in a SupaStox. I'd try upping the timing in the same gearing and see what that gives you.

Yes the LiPo makes a difference. I have one that is excellent and one that isn't. The poor one is 0.2s a lap slower. Both are nearly new and raced only ten times, but still one is not as good as the other - replacements due!

However, don't assume that getting a new LiPo means you get a faster LiPo. Stick with what you have, get the most speed you can from the current equipment and then see if someone will loan you what they think is their best LiPo for a race. If you can't feel a difference to your Orions, keep the wallet closed!

If you are talking top end, then the speedo is not likely to be the culprit. Same thing applies - get to drive someone else's car with your LiPo in and see what that feels like.

Too much credence is given to assuming that if the car is "too slow" or "being passed by everyone else" then it must be something in the motor/cell/speedo when in fact it could simply be better driving or better set-up. Keep trying before you keep spending!
Thanks SlowOne..
I appreciate the thoughts.. I will fiddle with the timing and gearing... It is however very frustrating to see your car simply being under powered down the straight, and out accelerated..
Driving is improving and I now want more speed. Simple as that, appreciate the driving has to keep improving though...
I have ordered two new lips this evening, couple of Hobby King 6400 90C's that I have seen the quick cars use.. I figure, once I have very similar gear to the guys leading at the likes of Maritime, I can rest easy at night knowing I need to craft my car a little better, than using lesser motors/lipos and Esc's etc.
Just works in my mind...
Thanks again
Stu
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  #215  
Old 16-05-2015
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Your gearing and timing are way out, min of 35 degree to max of 40 if you have red rotor in it 68 to 70 mm/r green rotor 70 to 73 mm/r.

You also need to get through the corner as quick as the fast guys going into the straight
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Last edited by mark christopher; 17-05-2015 at 08:57 AM.
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  #216  
Old 17-05-2015
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Hi Mark
Not sure what you mean by rotor, I assume the rotor inside the can. I have 13.5T. Beyond that, where would I find the rotor colour?

My can only goes up to 50 degrees!

Is it a good idea to get one of these red laser heat guns to find out the temperature of the can after I have run it. 60degrees is what I hear is maximum it should be fun at ?

True or false?

Stu
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  #217  
Old 17-05-2015
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There is a ring on the end of the rotor,rotor hold the magnet and pinion.

I never use temp,
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  #218  
Old 17-05-2015
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What about the 70 degrees if I don't have 70 degrees?
Good to know about the temperature, most people seem to be very wary of over heating...
Not your view Mark?
What's your take on the impact of Lipos? Big impact on speed? A 4200 45C would deliver less speed than 6400 90C?

Stu
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  #219  
Old 17-05-2015
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It's 70 mm/r
I don't use temp gun touch and smell, and feel on track.

Only use vapextec,
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Last edited by mark christopher; 17-05-2015 at 09:40 PM.
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  #220  
Old 17-05-2015
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Ok thanks.
I'm sensing your sponsored by Vapex...
What's difference between the different rotor colours in TP Motor?
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