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#1
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Front not braking the same as rear???
Hi All,
Hoping someone might be able point me in the right direction as to what may have happened? Running the 22-4 in full 4wd and at the start of the meeting, when I pulled the brake, the front and rear wheels stopped at the same time and rate. 4 races in and I noticed that when pulling the brake now the front wheels decelerated at a considerably slower rate Before I start pulling everything apart, has anyone else noticed or had this happen and if so what's worn or changed to cause it? Thanks in advance for any help |
#2
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Take the drive train apart and have a good look around. I managed to wear all the teeth off off the belt part of the clicker gear itself, so thats where i would start.
Its a real bummer to replace aswell as every other gear in the car comes in a nice set for under a fiver. And that gear only comes with the complete clicker assembly, which is 8 or nine quid. (prices from memory).
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Tom TLR 22-4 2.0, TLR 22 5.0 AC Elite, Kindly Supported by Trackside Spares, TLR, Spektrum and Horizon Hobby |
#3
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I've had the clicker crack and fall to pieces, made for an interesting drive
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Model Junction, Boughton Raceway. |
#4
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Interesting. Was everyone running the clicker locked out (permanent 4wd) when they had the problems?
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#5
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Check your slipper
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TLR, Screwz4RC, Spektrum, Horizon Hobby, Trinity, Trishbits, Racer, RichPaint, RDT products, Sanwa, Zen Racing, Silverback Lipo's http://www.screwz4rc.co.uk My Trader Feedback - http://www.oople.com/forums/showthre...hlight=tyreman
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#6
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Thanks for the helpful places to start.
I've seen elsewhere some people gluing the toothed slipper parts together if only going the full 4wd drive route so may try this too. I tightened the slipper and it made no difference, but the pads could just be completely knackered so will check that out too. |
#7
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Mine was locked.
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Model Junction, Boughton Raceway. |
#8
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Quote:
1. Mid belt is knackered 2. Teeth on mid-belt broken 3. The left most slipper pulley plate is not aligned and hence just spinning around I suspect you have less front drive too. I found an interesting design with the slipper the other day. Where the nut screws onto the slipper for adjustment, the threaded bar is not part of the slipper shaft but a screw that screws into the slipper shaft! Be careful here as a lot of people gauge the tightness of their slipper by how far the silicon lock nut is screwed onto the thread - not the case here. Simon |
#9
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Update
Thanks for all the advise, it gave me a good place to start looking, and I was able to take the front and mid sections apart to check it all today.
All the belts were ok thankfully and so were the slipper pads by the look and handling of them. What I did see was that the clicker teeth/steps had worn almost smooth on both parts. As I don't have replacements yet (they are on order now) I have super glued the two parts together, which I will also do to the new one when I receive it. As I have been switching from full 4wd to the one way set-up trying to see what I prefer it must have worn the parts a lot. |
#10
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yeah, unfortunately, i think the clicker parts are a weak point. I managed to wear the teeth which connect to the belt so that it was smooth. This was after maybe a week or two using the default belt tensions.
The most frustrating part is that its only available as the complete clicker unit. Which is useless to me as i only run mine in full time 4wd. (not enough breaking with the clicker)
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Tom TLR 22-4 2.0, TLR 22 5.0 AC Elite, Kindly Supported by Trackside Spares, TLR, Spektrum and Horizon Hobby |
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