trf201 drive comparison

kustom chris · #1 01-10-2012

hey guys
i just want to know what the 201 is like to drive compared to other 2wds on the market
im looking to buy thats all
also any build or tuning tips for dirt would be appreciated
cheers chris

Aussie Top Force · #2 01-10-2012

For setups, go here:http://www.petitrc.com/setup/tamiya/...yaTRF201X.html

As far as driving other cars go, I can't help. The 201 is my first car back to 1/10th off road since the 1990's.

The only mode really needed are TRF spring sets for tuning, or you could use other makes; and the 3 degree aluminium suspension mounts for the rear suspension.

Origineelreclamebord · #3 01-10-2012

I haven't driven other cars (DEX210, X6) more than a few minutes, so I doubt it's a very good comparison - also as I didn't have a sensored motor myself back then (nowadays I do).

I am VERY happy with the car!

It needed little mods from standard to work well (as it should of course), though I'm currently trying out some mods that seems to work nicely (Dremeled T-plate, Gear diff).

The only things that bug me about the TRF201: There aren't many fellow drivers, so you do need your own spares box/bin and I doubt there's any trackside shop who has 201 spares in stock. I've only broken front lower arms, front shocktowers and front top frames/bulkheads so far though, so if you buy that, some adjusters and small hardware you should be ok - Durability it very decent - I do find the shock towers rather rigid, they are strong but I think one with more flex (like a B4) is even more durable. I'm going to cook my front shock tower in an attempt to soften it. Also, the spur gear cover gives a bad seal. Tamiya released an optional motor plate that's stronger and has a rib on the gear cover side, but it's still not sufficient, so I usually tape it shut. The wing mounts might get stripped threads after a while, just use longer screws and it's problem solved!

I think the purchase of the TRF201 is best justified if you want a metric B4 that looks the part!

Believe me, buy one and you won't regret it. Before my switch to sensored gear I was looking at getting something else next season, but my last two races with the new electronics went so well that I decided to keep it a while longer.

@Aussie Top Force: Interesting choice on the suspension hangers, I haven't broken a single suspension hanger yet?

As for the TRF spring set, it helps, but in the long run I decided for Associated springs instead: The TRF springs are all very soft (I think they are intended for dirt/clay use only) and won't cut it if you drive on astroturf as well.

kustom chris · #4 01-10-2012

can you drive a mid motor on dirt is it really that noticeable
all the tracks in australia are dirt i like the idea of mid motor
i would of thought the weight transfer of a mid motor is right over the back wheels on the 201
ive never owned a 2wd
all my cars have been 4wd (501xwe,801xe,801xte)
let me know what yous think

Origineelreclamebord · #5 02-10-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by kustom chris

can you drive a mid motor on dirt is it really that noticeable
all the tracks in australia are dirt i like the idea of mid motor
i would of thought the weight transfer of a mid motor is right over the back wheels on the 201
ive never owned a 2wd
all my cars have been 4wd (501xwe,801xe,801xte)
let me know what yous think

A mid-motor can go VERY well on dirt: For example the X-Factory X6 - Last weekend I drove a Belgian-Dutch Championship (BNK) Race on clay, and in the A-finals I think there were 3 or 4 X6's

And in fact, I think there were only 2 rear motored cars in the A-final! Other cars in the A-finals were the DEX210, Losi 22, B4.1 and probably another car as well, completely mixed up you could say

It goes to show that the driver makes the biggest difference - and that when set up well, mid-motor cars are very good on clay too (I think the better drivers just know what to set up differently about mids on clay, plus the fact that they really want the mids on astroturf, which covers for at half of the races in the BNK season).

Anyway, the same goes for rear motored cars the other way around - after all Lee Martin showed how well the TRF201 can go on astroturf

In both situations you will probably require weights and some tricks to shift the balance of the car somewhat further to the desired position.

Aussie Top Force · #6 02-10-2012

"@Aussie Top Force: Interesting choice on the suspension hangers, I haven't broken a single suspension hanger yet? As for the TRF spring set, it helps, but in the long run I decided for Associated springs instead: The TRF springs are all very soft (I think they are intended for dirt/clay use only) and won't cut it if you drive on astroturf as well."

Note I haven't broken any either. They just tightened up the rear end and reduced some 'slop'. In fact i haven't broken anything on the 201 and its had some hard landings! I race on clay, no astro turf on Aus tracks. Blue springs rear, black up front, reverse the pistons in the shocks (front to rear from kit standard) and 40wt oil all round is a good place to start - for clay, dry and dusty. Yes the motor cover has issues, but electrical tape fixes that. Wing mounts, yes they get lose. The alternative to longer screws is proper self tapping screw. Other than those minor issues the car is an excellent unit!

Origineelreclamebord · #7 02-10-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aussie Top Force

"@Aussie Top Force: Interesting choice on the suspension hangers, I haven't broken a single suspension hanger yet? As for the TRF spring set, it helps, but in the long run I decided for Associated springs instead: The TRF springs are all very soft (I think they are intended for dirt/clay use only) and won't cut it if you drive on astroturf as well."

Note I haven't broken any either. They just tightened up the rear end and reduced some 'slop'. In fact i haven't broken anything on the 201 and its had some hard landings! I race on clay, no astro turf on Aus tracks. Blue springs rear, black up front, reverse the pistons in the shocks (front to rear from kit standard) and 40wt oil all round is a good place to start - for clay, dry and dusty. Yes the motor cover has issues, but electrical tape fixes that. Wing mounts, yes they get lose. The alternative to longer screws is proper self tapping screw. Other than those minor issues the car is an excellent unit!

Yeah, these things are the types of 'issues' any car has in it's own way - and to be honest, I like doing these small mods on the car actually

I use AE Green (1.9 lb/in) on the rear (0.1 softer than TRF Blue) with #400 Tamiya oil and 1.2?mm pistons. On the front I use AE Brown (2.8 lb/in) on the front (0.1 softer than TRF Black) with #500 oil and the same 1.2?mm pistons - cut M3 Proline Calibers on the back, M3 Proline 4-Ribs on the front. I've been told 0.5 Degree toe-in uprights may work well to get a more stable rear end, though it's stock setup isn't bad. Tamiya's Alu uprights are quite pricy so I haven't been able to try the difference yet.